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OK, this is fun and all, but unless it's a class on advance diagnostics and distributor repair - I'm done. Your distributor is listed as in-stock at my local auto parts store at $39.99 plus core. Considering this has been an issue across two engines, and the suggested diagnostics are currently fruitless - you need to draw the line somewhere.

David
 
Be the best 40 bux he has spent so far....

If he has eliminated the turning of dist problem. A couple ??'s come to mind sense its a 2 engine span. did you use the same hold down as was mentioned waaaayyyy up yonder.... and did ya verify that you ARE getting the dist tightened?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
OK, this is fun and all, but unless it's a class on advance diagnostics and distributor repair - I'm done. Your distributor is listed as in-stock at my local auto parts store at $39.99 plus core. Considering this has been an issue across two engines, and the suggested diagnostics are currently fruitless - you need to draw the line somewhere.

David
OK, Dave, take a deep beath. (LOL)

Good suggestion (I had no idea what a new distributor runs), but I'll also have to get it deinstalled/installed, timed, etc. Not a big money deal, but I also have to get my guy to come over to my house to do the work twice.

As I said, I'm not a mechanic. The only thing I have personally done with my dist is change the points, rotor, and condenser. I'm not taking the dist out or installing it.

But, I really do appreciate the sound advice.

As for how much it has "spun", not a lot. Since it only starts to act up after four/five months, I haven't had to nudge it a lot since I changed the motor.

With the old motor, I just lived with the hard starting problem.
 
I don't think it's slipping timing- think about it, if its dragging the dist body from a bad bearing or any other reason, it's going to pull it in the direction of the rotor, causing timing to become retarded, starting easier... Slow cranking at hot start is too much advance- why I still think most likely the vacuum advance is sticking. A new advance diaphragm won't stick, but the plate the points is hooked to pivots when the diaphragm pulls on the rod- if that pivot gets rusty, the spring won't pull the diaphragm back all the way, leaving the timing advanced.

Mechanical (centrifugal if you prefer) advance surely could stick too, but I've never seen those get tight, they few I've ever messed with we're loose from age, but the point plate pivot often felt tight. Next time it happens, pop the cap try to gently force the rotor back a little, if it don't move, then try pushing the points plate gently away from the vacuum advance rod- I bet one of them sticking is the culprit. If its just sticking, a drop of oil from the dipstick on the pin might be all that's needed, just don't get any oil near the points. If the mechanical/centrifugal feels sticky at the rotor, I don't recall on a ford, but think you need take it apart to get access to the springs/pivots.
 
I don't think it's slipping timing- think about it, if its dragging the dist body from a bad bearing or any other reason, it's going to pull it in the direction of the rotor, causing timing to become retarded, starting easier... Slow cranking at hot start is too much advance...
So a very retarded engine (ignition timing) will be easier to start?

If he has to move the distributor body to start it, and then it moves again at a later date as the dist has moved again, the distributor body is moving. It is not secured properly.
 
OK, Dave, take a deep beath. (LOL)

Good suggestion (I had no idea what a new distributor runs), but I'll also have to get it deinstalled/installed, timed, etc. Not a big money deal, but I also have to get my guy to come over to my house to do the work twice.
It isnt rocket science, but that said I dont know how "brave" you are. Purchase the new Dizzy, pop the cap off the old, note where the rotor is pointing, swap the needed parts to NEW dizzy, remove clamp to remove old dizzy watching the way the shaft is turning, and where it stops turning while lifting dizzy out of motor. Align new dizzy up to the same place it was pointing to after it un-engaged the cam and lower new one into place... It may or may not seat completely and if it doesnt a starter bump should cause it to drop into place. ( thats it engaging the oil pump shaft )
As I said, I'm not a mechanic. The only thing I have personally done with my dist is change the points, rotor, and condenser. I'm not taking the dist out or installing it.
It is an easy swap
 
Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
It isnt rocket science, but that said I dont know how "brave" you are. Purchase the new Dizzy, pop the cap off the old, note where the rotor is pointing, swap the needed parts to NEW dizzy, remove clamp to remove old dizzy watching the way the shaft is turning, and where it stops turning while lifting dizzy out of motor. Align new dizzy up to the same place it was pointing to after it un-engaged the cam and lower new one into place... It may or may not seat completely and if it doesnt a starter bump should cause it to drop into place. ( thats it engaging the oil pump shaft ) It is an easy swap
Sounds easy enough, and I did do a lot of the prep work when we did the motor swap in 2010.

I've also done brake jobs, changed complete exhaust systems, and swapped transmissions (three speed) and rear ends in the street in front of my house.

But, that was a long time ago. Now that I am also an old fart, I find myself less "ballsy".

(I'll be 70 in January. Who's the older fart, me or you?)

I"m going to need a bit of supervision if I decide to change the dist.
 
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