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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Was driving home from my buddy's house a few hours ago when I hear this horrible sound like someone threw a bunch of rocks into my fan. Thought maybe I had run over some gravel I didn't see, but then it happened twice more within five minutes. I was close to home, so I decided to try to make it home instead of pulling off. Made it home OK and popped the hood. My AC compressor looks like someone stuck a grenade in it!!! There is a hole the size of a silver dollar on the side facing the distributer. It also has a hole in top of it about an inch long. Compressor oil is all over the inside of the engine. What the hell could have caused this to happen??? My only though is that the bearing seized and bits of the bearing or shaft broke off and blew out the side and top. However, the pulley still spins freely. I did notice the last two times I drove it that it was making a slight whine until it warmed up and I was wondering of it was the compressor or the alternator going. Guess I know which one now! Have any of you guys ever heard of trhis happening??

I did check the radiator and hoses and there doesn't appear to be any damage and/or leaks.
 

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I would think either the clutch was dragging or the bearing locked up.

It isn't all of that bad of an idea to remove the drive belt in off-season (IMO).
 

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not using it for long periods is bad. oil is circulated during operation keeping seals lubed-preventing leaks. you should run it occasionally
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I have not run it in years because the entire AC system basically needs replacing...lesson learned the hard way. Belt is coming off this weekend so I can still drive it without spraying oil all over the engine. I had planned on getting the entire AC system fixed before next summer so I wouldn't have to roast. I have never heard of this happening before, but I guess is not as uncommon as I believed. I would like to keep the car as original as possible (It is pretty much original except for the Magnum 500s) and I know Macs and Autokrafters sell new and rebuilt York compressors for this car. Don't know much about the Sanden ones....any info on them would be appreciated.
 

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Sanden= Small, round, radial, light(er) weight. efficent
York=Large, upright (although usually laying on its side) piston/rod configuration, heavy, OEM style..

The Sandens are all the rage due to size and operation.

Want it to LOOK/be correct the York is the proper compressor.

Havent had any dealings with the sanden compressors....
 

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not using it for long periods is bad. oil is circulated during operation keeping seals lubed-preventing leaks. you should run it occasionally
Correct. One should operate the AC a few times during winter to keep the compressor and components lubed but that is only on a properly maintained and operating system. His was non-functioning and should have had the drive belt removed.
 

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I don't know if a 66 has a low pressure cut off switch or not but it seems you must have turned on the AC accidently and with no freon and maybe low oil in the compressor and it grenaded. Other wise the compressor pulley should spin merrily along without engaging the compressor without the ac clutch engaged.
Mike
 

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did these old cars cycle the AC in defrost mode? I know everything since the 70's did...
just asking as it sounds like the rod broke, but then the thing woulda had to have been running- at least if the bearings are like on the newer ones. newer ones the bearing just runs the pulley to the housing, if bearing locks up/spins it still shouldnt engage the compressor, it just destroys the nose of the housing...

my wifes uncle had one break a rod in his old woodgrained fairmont wagon (he still drives it), made one heck of a racket/oily mess for sure :)
 

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For the compressor to have a total failure, it was either engaged by mistake or a leaking switch (power source), the compressor drive (clutch asm) was dragging (worn components or improper adjustment).

No low pressure cut out cycling (no accumulator). High pressure relief valve. Low refrigerant (and or lubricating oil), she keeps on turning.

That is why unless the system is properly maintained, the drive belt is removed for insurance (even for a possible clutch asm or clutch bearing failure). Noises are telling you something.
 
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