Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,700 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are you guys methods ... How tight?

This is what I did ... tell me what you think.

Set cam to "base circle" for the cylinder ...

Tighten nut until push rod doesn't spin by hand ...

Turn nut down another 3/4 turn and set "allen stop".

What say you guys?



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
I prefer the tigten while running method it might be kinda messy but it is hard to screw up and acomidates for the variations in things

on top of the if the motor is running you know that the lifters a primed, if it is off the plunger could be anywhere
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,185 Posts
Might get it too tight if you are spinning it, and tightening till it stops. I like to kinda move it up and down until it is at zero lash. Really helps to do it once with the manifold off, then you will know exactly what it feels like when the plunger just starts to go down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,700 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Walt ... Not a bad thought ...
I've always done the "spin" thing, but I see you point.

I guess that's why I ask ...

Looking for additional ideas an better methods.


Once the engine is running I will adjust most likely adjust again, but right now it's on an engine stand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
Since its on the stand and the lifters are not full of oil, try this. Turn the adjuster until the lifter plunger moves down. Now give the adjuster 1/2 turn more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
if you wanna set it on the stand I would say what 85 mike did but I would prime them up first then just turn till the rod doesn't turn and give it a 1/2 turn


speaking of that how much does everyone her adjust down the lifters, I always used 1/4 to 1/2 so as to lesen the possibility of valve float
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Exhaust Adjustment:
1)rotate crank untill INTAKE valve on same cylinder fully opens and then closes 1/2 way 2)loosen rocker nut until rocker is completely loose 3)start tightening adjusting nut untill you feel lash being removed by "shaking" rocker arm..keep turning untill ALL slack is removed.(this IS a very inportant step..may require backing off, then re-adjusting a couple times to get the feel) 4)now you are at zero..turn adjusting nut down additional 1/8th turn (appr. 003-005)

Intake Adjustment:
1) rotate engine untill EXHAUST valve on same cylinder just begine to open
2)repeat steps 2, 3, and 4 in above exh. adjustment.

i have done this method for many years and have never had a problem. i have sucessfully built hydraulic cammed circle track class specific engines that have ran over 7200 rpm. my hydro-roller 357 spins 6500 easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,497 Posts
RJ is right on target.

It is EASY to think you have the lifter adjusted, only to not have the lifter 100% on the base circle. I'm guilty here as well... You'll think it's right, then when you go back to check, it's too loose. To avoid this, keep the folling in mind....

As the engine is rotated, the exhaust opens first, then as it is closing, the intake valve opens.

Follow RJ's advice to make sure you stay on the base circle!

Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,700 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow ... only 1/8th of a turn ... that's about the least I've ever heard.

The risk of over tightening would be valves failing to close completely ... ??

At what point does that become a risk ...??

In my case, on this particular motor ... It will never see over about 3,500 RPM.

_________________

Larry Madsen
Las Vegas Nevada



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: MonsterMach on 5/25/02 5:03am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,497 Posts
I generally tighten hydraulic lifters that are mostly street driven 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

Racing applications that will be revved until the lifters pump up need less preload... because, as the lifter 'pumps up' it becomes pretty much solid, and that preload will keep the valves from closing.

A GOOD set of lifters adjusted to 1/4 - 1/2 turn will run up close to 6500 rpm no problem. Engines that spin that high need solid cams in my opinion. Hydraulic Rollers don't turn that high anyway, and as long as they don't have EXCESSIVE preload (anything less than a full turn) they'll be fine.

Follow RJ's advice about the base circle.

Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I was told to go by firing order. (351 or 5.0 roller cam) point the rotor button at #6 and set intake and exaust on cylinder # 1(companion cylinder) . turn till pointing at the #5 and set #3 and so on till you get them all. if your lifters are not pumped up when you set them it wont matter how much extra you turn them because they will self adjust to the preload. I use 3/4 a turn but to each his or her own.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top