[jolobo]

Almost there with getting her to back to excellent health, took her out last night came back and saw a nice amount of differential fluid on the ground.
The leak is on the big round part of diff more on the LH(driver side) So my questions are:

1. What fluid should I put in her ( I have to order it and have it shipped)?

2. Which type of gaskets or seals do I need? ( The guy at summit is asking me size , type of differential I have which I do not know)

3. Where is the refill for the Diff located and is the refilling a big task?

4. Other than obvious leak sign how can I know she is really low or totally out, what are the symptoms?

See pics for leak

 

[RAGGAREN]

Almost there with getting her to back to excellent health, took her out last night came back and saw a nice amount of differential fluid on the ground.
The leak is on the big round part of diff more on the LH(driver side) So my questions are:

1. What fluid should I put in her ( I have to order it and have it shipped)?

2. Which type of gaskets or seals do I need? ( The guy at summit is asking me size , type of differential I have which I do not know)

3. Where is the refill for the Diff located and is the refilling a big task?

4. Other than obvious leak sign how can I know she is really low or totally out, what are the symptoms?

See pics for leak

hard to tell from those pictures...need a shot of third member/pumpkin/carrier...
but my guess would be a 9"

 

[Minn64Gal]

Your housing looks alot like my '64 Gal's does, so I'll chime in (in blue):

The leak is on the big round part of diff more on the LH(driver side) So my questions are:

Having been a Ford tech yrs ago we fixed many a '78-79 Bronco/F-150 with "seaping housings" -which is what yours looks like in those pics. The Ford official fix was to clean affected area to inspect it (the welded area where the large round center part meets the tube of the housing), raise that portion of the rear end to allow gear lube to flow away from it, then clean it up really well with mineral spirits or a fast-dry solvent, allow to dry thoroughly and then apply an oil-proof rubber-based sealant to it.

Before I continue let me also say that it wouldn't hurt to check that rubber hose which is clamped to the top of your brake hose, That is the vent hose for the housing. Check to see if it too is wet or looks like it has gurgled any lube out recently. If good to go, no sweat -if it is wet, holler.

1. What fluid should I put in her ( I have to order it and have it shipped)? It's generally called gear lube -so when you ask for it (I use 90w here) any place like NAPA or your local parts house sells it (probably cheaper than shipping a heavy oil product via UPS, etc). Note: If you know you have a locking rearend or not, there's also an additional product required called "friction modifier" for locking rear-ends, which you'd need if changing out ALL of the lube. In your case -and if you're only "topping off", let's not worry about that.

2. Which type of gaskets or seals do I need? ( The guy at summit is asking me size , type of differential I have which I do not know)

Hold off on ordering til you check the above and get that fill bung out.

3. Where is the refill for the Diff located and is the refilling a big task?

Not seeing any fill bung on your housing pics, yours is prolly like mine and is on the r/h side (passenger side) of the cast iron front section (where the pinion is), facing right. It is a round threaded cast plug with a square drive depression. If it hasn't been removed in a while, try some nut busting spray first, take a break and then give it a go with a 3/8" drive extension on a ratchet. Don't feel bad if it's stuck good because laying under a car that way a person has verry little mechanical "ummmph". Once you do get it out, if lube instantly drips out, oh baby, she's full (be sure to be on level ground and the housing level).

4. Other than obvious leak sign how can I know she is really low or totally out, what are the symptoms?

From my yrs as a tech you don't wanna let a Ford rearend get thaat low to then try and listen for symptoms. If you happen to crawl under there after returning from a drive -and you smell burned oil right away, uuufda. Get that plug out if you can.

Hope that helps! Norm

 

[KULTULZ]

Before I continue let me also say that it wouldn't hurt to check that rubber hose which is clamped to the top of your brake hose, That is the vent hose for the housing. Check to see if it too is wet or looks like it has gurgled any lube out recently. If good to go, no sweat -if it is wet, holler.

Or, if it is plugged by mud wasps nests. Ask me how I know...

All good advice here... :tup:

 

[jolobo]

Thanks guys and Norm I checked the area where the large round center meets the housing and it is dry on both welded sides (driver and passenger).

So after that I checked the hose that is clamped to the brake hose, right above the Diff, I got the hose which is going to driver side brake hose and the passenger side brake hose. I rubbed my hand on them and they seem dry. Now what I found there is a screw or some plug to the left of the brake hoses (see pic)cant tell its really greasy and grimy in that area but its is loose like I can shake it.

As in the pic it seems as though it might be running down from there to around the front area where the big part is cause it wet there also.

I did find the fill plug and it is exactly as you described but located in the front on driver side seems easy to get out when jacked up but car not balance to check the level, guess I'll but jack stand on other side to level it out and see what comes out. Before that I will wait and see what you guys say about that loose thing in pic and I'm going to go clean it up in that area now.

Your housing looks alot like my '64 Gal's does, so I'll chime in (in blue):

The leak is on the big round part of diff more on the LH(driver side) So my questions are:

Having been a Ford tech yrs ago we fixed many a '78-79 Bronco/F-150 with "seaping housings" -which is what yours looks like in those pics. The Ford official fix was to clean affected area to inspect it (the welded area where the large round center part meets the tube of the housing), raise that portion of the rear end to allow gear lube to flow away from it, then clean it up really well with mineral spirits or a fast-dry solvent, allow to dry thoroughly and then apply an oil-proof rubber-based sealant to it.

Before I continue let me also say that it wouldn't hurt to check that rubber hose which is clamped to the top of your brake hose, That is the vent hose for the housing. Check to see if it too is wet or looks like it has gurgled any lube out recently. If good to go, no sweat -if it is wet, holler.

1. What fluid should I put in her ( I have to order it and have it shipped)? It's generally called gear lube -so when you ask for it (I use 90w here) any place like NAPA or your local parts house sells it (probably cheaper than shipping a heavy oil product via UPS, etc). Note: If you know you have a locking rearend or not, there's also an additional product required called "friction modifier" for locking rear-ends, which you'd need if changing out ALL of the lube. In your case -and if you're only "topping off", let's not worry about that.

2. Which type of gaskets or seals do I need? ( The guy at summit is asking me size , type of differential I have which I do not know)

Hold off on ordering til you check the above and get that fill bung out.

3. Where is the refill for the Diff located and is the refilling a big task?

Not seeing any fill bung on your housing pics, yours is prolly like mine and is on the r/h side (passenger side) of the cast iron front section (where the pinion is), facing right. It is a round threaded cast plug with a square drive depression. If it hasn't been removed in a while, try some nut busting spray first, take a break and then give it a go with a 3/8" drive extension on a ratchet. Don't feel bad if it's stuck good because laying under a car that way a person has verry little mechanical "ummmph". Once you do get it out, if lube instantly drips out, oh baby, she's full (be sure to be on level ground and the housing level).

4. Other than obvious leak sign how can I know she is really low or totally out, what are the symptoms?

From my yrs as a tech you don't wanna let a Ford rearend get thaat low to then try and listen for symptoms. If you happen to crawl under there after returning from a drive -and you smell burned oil right away, uuufda. Get that plug out if you can.

Hope that helps! Norm

 

[jolobo]

Ok I found out what that thing is to the left of the rubber hose/brake line, it is some type of plug that (see pic) that fits into a little hole on top of the Diff and it was "rigged up" to be in place with a metal wire( hanger).

I don't know if that is the issue as it sits on top of the Diff, so that means the fluid would have to be pushed up and out of the plug, maybe when driving around from bumps and vibrations that could be possible and especially being it is not tight at all.

The other thing what is this plug and how in the world do I get it to be tight in the hole?

 

[Kilbrie21]

I am curious to the answer on this one too. The same breather hose is loose on my '66. For now I have it tucked on the frame crossmember.

 

[jolobo]

Actually it is not a hose it is just a plug going into the diff and on other end it has small hole maybe for breathing, but clearly it should be tight in there. The hose which is connected to brake lines are tight and nothing leaking from there.

I am curious to the answer on this one too. The same breather hose is loose on my '66. For now I have it tucked on the frame crossmember.

 

[KULTULZ]

It should screw into the housing itself. Check for pulled threads.

It is a vent.

 

[jolobo]

You are dead right and the threads are almost gone so I found this

http://www.dearbornclassics.com/1968+ford+galaxie/ford-hose-kit-differential-vent-1964-1970.html

But it looks different than the one I got(maybe mines not original) and also the one in the link comes with hose, mines on the car is just there without hose. So is it correct to say my current vent other than missing threads, it also should have been a hose attached?

If so this hose just hangs freely for the purpose if ventilation?

It should screw into the housing itself. Check for pulled threads.

It is a vent.

 

[fordman289]

When I pulled the rear out of my '67 last summer I found that this was broken on mine as well and the hole on top of the housing was just open to the elements and had been leaking fluid out. (probably mainly from the gears spinning in the oil) I was unable to find a replacement for that fitting and the hole on my housing was not threaded.

After seeing one of these breathers on a car at a show (JEGS Rear Axle Vent - JEGS), I decided to thread the hole on the housing and use one of those. Found one locally at a farm/ranch store, was a different thread size so I had to use an adapter. It's had less then 1k on it since all of this and no issues or leaks. Did pull the third member out to inspect, drain, clean and change the oil since anything could have gotten in there with that fitting off.

 

[puttster]

You are dead right and the threads are almost gone so I found this

1968 Ford Galaxie Hose Kit Differential Vent - Dearborn Classics

But it looks different than the one I got(maybe mines not original) and also the one in the link comes with hose, mines on the car is just there without hose. So is it correct to say my current vent other than missing threads, it also should have been a hose attached?

If so this hose just hangs freely for the purpose if ventilation?

Well, there is a hose clamped on your vent fitting, it just needs to be replaced with a longer one On mine the hose looks to be about a foot long and runs from the differential upwards and then pokes 2" into a hole in the frame. Just before the hole, that's where you clamp it. maybe this pic will help, its the Goodyear hose.

 

[jolobo]

Once again you have come through with beneficial info Puttster Yea I see my hose on the vent has been broken or cut and after further investigation the hose is already mounted on car going into frame about 2 ".

How it got broke beats me but I also see the in the hole of diff where vent goes should be a grommet which is not there and that's why it was loose there is nothing there to keep it tight in the hole. Let me find a grommet and that's not easy in the middle east.

Another thanks to all and big shot out to Norm for troubleshooting steps.

Well, there is a hose clamped on your vent fitting, it just needs to be replaced with a longer one On mine the hose looks to be about a foot long and runs from the differential upwards and then pokes 2" into a hole in the frame. Just before the hole, that's where you clamp it. maybe this pic will help, its the Goodyear hose.

 

[KULTULZ]

You are dead right and the threads are almost gone so I found this

1968 Ford Galaxie Hose Kit Differential Vent - Dearborn Classics

But it looks different than the one I got(maybe mines not original) and also the one in the link comes with hose, mines on the car is just there without hose. So is it correct to say my current vent other than missing threads, it also should have been a hose attached?

If so this hose just hangs freely for the purpose if ventilation?

NEW THOUGHT-

Actually, the piece broken on this design is only a fitting. The actual vent is located at the top of the vent hose so as not to allow water vapor and mud daubers in. I will try and get an illustration Mon.

This kit is correct but does not contain the actual vent. You will still need a new vent. There has to be either NOS or repros out there.

 

[jolobo]

Ok but I think the thing I already have is the vent if you can look at the pics I put up, there is a vent/valve which has an opening that goes down in the diff and the other end has a small pin whole, and that end connects to the hose which goes through the frame as mentioned by Puttster. Which should allow for ventilation. I just need the grommet to keep my vent in place from what I have understood. And correct the link I put does not have the vent.

But please feel free to correct me and show pic of vent as I did a google search and all pics of vent I saw are similar to what I have.

NEW THOUGHT-

Actually, the piece broken on this design is only a fitting. The actual vent is located at the top of the vent hose so as not to allow water vapor and mud daubers in. I will try and get an illustration Mon.

This kit is correct but does not contain the actual vent. You will still need a new vent. There has to be either NOS or repros out there.

 

[KULTULZ]

Ok but I think the thing I already have is the vent if you can look at the pics I put up, there is a vent/valve which has an opening that goes down in the diff and the other end has a small pin whole, and that end connects to the hose which goes through the frame as mentioned by Puttster. Which should allow for ventilation. I just need the grommet to keep my vent in place from what I have understood. And correct the link I put does not have the vent.

But please feel free to correct me and show pic of vent as I did a google search and all pics of vent I saw are similar to what I have.

The part you show is only a fitting-

It allows for transition of a mechanical fitting to a vent hose. The actual vent is (should be) located at the top of the hose (acting as a one way valve).

I am away from my MPC this weekend but will hopefully have an ill MON.

 

[Minn64Gal]

I agree you have a hose adapter with an orifice of some kind in it, and it's stripped out no less. Considering your locale and parts difficulty, if you can round up some brass plumbing nipples with approximately the same thread as the one in your housing, you might be able to self-tap that baby in there (brass will yield to steel so it won't strip out the housing. Just don't over-tighten the brass). Then slip the hose onto the brass nipple's other end, add a clamp, ta-da!. I'll add an image of the brass I am referring to. No need to find a barbed one -even a straight nipple would work. If that is unavailable, try finding some kind of epoxy, workable plastic, solder, putty or anything that is malleable for a bit until you can apply it to the vent's thread remnants, and re-thread it back in the housing hole. Finally, allowing it to cure to some level of hardness before doing more tinkering.

Brass nipple ---->

Then, try and round up some kind of plastic plug the same diameter as the insides of the new hose you will be adding. Then, drill a small orifice in that plug to allow the housing to vent air thru the length of that hose. Make the hole size similar to the one in your vent. That oughta do it. Leaving the hose as-is with nothing on the end, will as Kulz said, allow any wayward insect or debris to accumulate, thus plugging the vent eventually and we don't want that.....again!

I'm trying to allow for a lack of auto parts where you're at, so how's all that sound? Norm

Ok but I think the thing I already have is the vent if you can look at the pics I put up, there is a vent/valve which has an opening that goes down in the diff and the other end has a small pin whole, and that end connects to the hose which goes through the frame as mentioned by Puttster. Which should allow for ventilation. I just need the grommet to keep my vent in place from what I have understood. And correct the link I put does not have the vent.

But please feel free to correct me and show pic of vent as I did a google search and all pics of vent I saw are similar to what I have.

 

[jolobo]

Norm that idea worked out perfect instead of brass I found steel with an adapter and had to do a little self-tap and in addition to that instead of finding plastic or similar item to put in hose, I decided to put my old stripped vent(hose adapter) on the other end of hose with clamp as Kultulz said,(to stop debris) since it already has a small orifice there.

I found some gear oil Fully Synthetic 75W-90 with API GL-5, is that cool? Boy still trying to get that fill bung off I put bolt off on it I will keep at it.

I agree you have a hose adapter with an orifice of some kind in it, and it's stripped out no less. Considering your locale and parts difficulty, if you can round up some brass plumbing nipples with approximately the same thread as the one in your housing, you might be able to self-tap that baby in there (brass will yield to steel so it won't strip out the housing. Just don't over-tighten the brass). Then slip the hose onto the brass nipple's other end, add a clamp, ta-da!. I'll add an image of the brass I am referring to. No need to find a barbed one -even a straight nipple would work. If that is unavailable, try finding some kind of epoxy, workable plastic, solder, putty or anything that is malleable for a bit until you can apply it to the vent's thread remnants, and re-thread it back in the housing hole. Finally, allowing it to cure to some level of hardness before doing more tinkering.

Brass nipple ---->

Then, try and round up some kind of plastic plug the same diameter as the insides of the new hose you will be adding. Then, drill a small orifice in that plug to allow the housing to vent air thru the length of that hose. Make the hole size similar to the one in your vent. That oughta do it. Leaving the hose as-is with nothing on the end, will as Kulz said, allow any wayward insect or debris to accumulate, thus plugging the vent eventually and we don't want that.....again!

I'm trying to allow for a lack of auto parts where you're at, so how's all that sound? Norm

 

[Minn64Gal]

Jo, you are quite the MacGyver, woohoo! Way to go!.

On that gear oil; I have Napa 80w90 and it covers API GL-3 thru 5, non-syn though. I think using syn or not is probably more a personal choice -or in your case, maybe that's all that's available? I did 5 minutes of research online about it just now and learned more than I knew, lol.

You'll get that fill bung out, I have faith in ya! Norm

Norm that idea worked out perfect instead of brass I found steel with an adapter and had to do a little self-tap and in addition to that instead of finding plastic or similar item to put in hose, I decided to put my old stripped vent(hose adapter) on the other end of hose with clamp as Kultulz said,(to stop debris) since it already has a small orifice there.

I found some gear oil Fully Synthetic 75W-90 with API GL-5, is that cool? Boy still trying to get that fill bung off I put bolt off on it I will keep at it.

 

[KULTULZ]

Shown below is the later style service replacement fitting-

I believe this has been discontinued but can still find.