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been working on my 68 galaxie for 2 years now....just totally rebuilt engine and put it in....got it to run long enough to break in my cam...all of the sudden it quit firing and the sound of the engine turning over changed...i figured points were bad....in process of checking , noticed distributor wasnt turning , so...i thought sheared pin on distributor gear....looking at that i saw cam wasnt turning....took front of engine down and found cam pin broken in 3 pieces....got that replaced and when re-timing discovered my cam will not turn....broke the new cam pin trying to turn it....out of money spent around 9700 on car allready and need it to be a daily driver right now for a couple of months...will be taking rockers pushrods lifters and intake off tomorrow , but allmost ready to jump off a bridge..anybody have any ideas / suggestions while i sit here dreading tomorrow?
 

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been working on my 68 galaxie for 2 years now....just totally rebuilt engine and put it in....got it to run long enough to break in my cam...all of the sudden it quit firing and the sound of the engine turning over changed...i figured points were bad....in process of checking , noticed distributor wasnt turning , so...i thought sheared pin on distributor gear....looking at that i saw cam wasnt turning....took front of engine down and found cam pin broken in 3 pieces....got that replaced and when re-timing discovered my cam will not turn....broke the new cam pin trying to turn it....out of money spent around 9700 on car allready and need it to be a daily driver right now for a couple of months...will be taking rockers pushrods lifters and intake off tomorrow , but allmost ready to jump off a bridge..anybody have any ideas / suggestions while i sit here dreading tomorrow?
Very sorry to hear this. Well do yourself a favour and get the valves checked because there is a good chance one or more was hit by a piston and well you get the picture.......:(
 

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That really sucks. It sounds to me like one or more of your cam bearings were installed wrong and blocked the oil passages. It would be best to pull the engine and start pulling it apart to determine the extent of the damage.

Maybe you can find a used but running engine to get you by while you deal with this engine. I wish you the best in sorting this out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
stupid question....but is it out of the realm of possibility that maybe a cam bearing was wrong and replacing it will fix problem....shouldnt the machine shop stand behind the work? only problem is i picked up block 11 months ago and just built it
 

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The Valves are the LEAST of the problems.

The engine needs to come out NOW.

The cam bearings wiped the cam! It must be taken out and taken to a machine shop and have it removed then have ALL of the bearings looked at closely for proper insertion before touching anything else!

If the bearing installer didn't line up the oil holes then it's their responsibility.

If you put even Half of that 9700 into the motor you're in big trouble, that 390 should only cost you about $1900 to $2800 to rebuild completely at home or on a shop.


Who installed the cam bearings? And, DID YOU PRIME the oiling system before starting the engine?

DO NOT LOOSE track of which lifter goes into which hole. This is important if the cam is saveable! Very important.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yes ....i primed the oiling system...the work was done by bennings machine shop in columbus ga....the bottom end moves freely when i turn it over by hand
 

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Get it apart, take it to them to remove the cam and to determine the cause of the lockup. I'm thinking a core shift or improperly aligned cam bearing or bearings.

This breaks cams also, they're only cast iron and not super strong length wise. Maybe yours is salvageable.

But ALL of the oil galleries should be uncapped and cleaned out prior to putting it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
update....dont know if this means anything but removed rockers and cam will move from about 10 o clock position to about the 8 o clock position and no further in either direction.
 

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I'm sorry to hear that, that really sux.

I hope I don't run into too many issues with the engine I'm building for a Datsun. Its a Frankenstein engine.
 

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pnutbailey4,
Been there done that. Being a novice at building engines I rely on machine shops to do work for me. I once drove a new engine 1000 miles, put it on the drag strip, drove back home and found my oil pressure was low. When we pulled the engine apart we found that the crank had been turned on a taper. The crank and main bearings had to be replaced. Who's fault was that. MINE. I didn't check their work.
The more unnecessary expense you have in building an engine will make a better engine builder out of you. We all have went through this. I've not seen a college diploma yet that said " masters in engine building". Checking each bore in an engine, checking bearing clearance, adhering to torque specifications and reading repair manuals takes time, but we all learned like that and we still have problems. Good luck in repairing your engine. Jim
 

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Put check for stuck valve, Guides to tight on your check list at tear down. Just a thought . Remember this to shall pass, Happy trails
 

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Discussion Starter #18
havent got it out yet...waiting on a buddy to come help me...was pulling pushrods...which are all still straight...and heard a rattle...looked with a flashlight and the crnter or internals of the lifter are seperated and out of the lifter...it is a matcked set from comp cams...lifters cam and springs...i am hoping for manufacturers defect so that they will pay for it...i followed thier setup recommendations for setup and used thier break in lube , ran it for 25 min between 1700 qnd 2200 rpm to break in cam....i dont know.
 

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Unless some of the pieces fell down and jammed the camshaft somehow I don't see how this would stop the camshaft from turning?..The pressure from the pushrod should have kept the lifter all together until you removed it.
 
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