Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to confirm if my alternator is functioning and/or wiring is correct. Remember i had nothing to start with so putting things togeather as i go. It seems my battery isn't getting charged. Will hold a charge after putting charger on it over night, so i am assuming the battery is good, buying another just to confirm.

I'm more concerened that i have my wireing correct. I put a new alternator on and electrical modual.

Thanks
sixty3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
Do you have a multi-meter? If so measure battery voltage while car is running, even with a fully charged battery it should be reading above 12v. If you put loads on it it will help. (ie lights, heater/ac on high, wipers on high, even the flashers) should get a reading over 13v up to 14+.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,337 Posts
:confused:

No one suggested pulling the positive cable while running to see if it shuts down?

I am flabbergasted... :eek:

It helps to know the year and model of car and if the install is OEM or retrofit.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,855 Posts
:confused:

No one suggested pulling the positive cable while running to see if it shuts down?

I am flabbergasted... :eek:

It helps to know the year and model of car and if the install is OEM or retrofit.
LOL I would have, but... and that's normally my FIRST and Foremost answer when this Q comes up, but a couple real buttnuggets hollered at me the other day telling me that one should NEVER EVER EVER EVER, remove the positive cable first.... haaaahahahhahahahahhaaaaaaaa

So................... Hmmmmmm......... Where does that leave us?

Is it OK or NOT OK to remove the + cable?????? LOL :D :D :D :D :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Alternator update

1963 Galaxie 500
The more i work on the wiring the more i understand it so then it becomes easier, kind of like your ABC's FE. I found the same schematic (Link below) this a.m. in one of my car parts catalogs; i don't want to start cutting wires yet until others chime in on solution, but i'm ready to. Took the car for its first real drive last night 15 miles just to get gas. Got there , but on way back it died, almost like it was missing. Waited a good 15min for rescue to jump start me and drove another 8-10 miles then same thing. Buddy was following me, we waited 10 minutes then jumped it again and drove home without further issues. We assume some wire was getting hot and killing it? We knew battery wasn't charging, but i needed to drive it if you know what i mean.

Factory wiring harness:

Black/Yellow wire connected to S.Solenoid
Yellow/black,white, black red are all dead:not connected
Voltage Reg. (New purchased w/ Alternator for 66Gal.)
"S" =green /red w/ clip not connected
"A" =yellow:splits off one too radio capacitor and other heavy gauge (believe in line fuse) black / yellow that splits one going to S.Solenoid and other going to Alternator
"F" = orange/blue goes to alternator
Alternator:
Heavy black/yellow = "BAT"
orange/black = "FLD"
Yellow/black = "STA"
nothing connected = "GRD"
bare post = nor markings
I hope the pictures help? And yes i over filled the surge tank and she squirted in the nice clean engine compartment.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Remove the battery cable?

Little confused by FE and KULTUZ:

So do i start the car then remove the ground battery post then the Positive post while running? both have to be hooked up to start. Give me some good directions and why and i will confirm my findings.

Thanks both of you have been a real help!!
Kevin/sixty3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,342 Posts
I have linked the '63 Galaxie wiring diagram below from
<http://www.tocmp.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring%20diagrams/Ford/MWire5765-219.jpg>

David

From TOCMP.com:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,495 Posts
disconnecting the battery with the engine running is a bad idea. the battery is part of the charging system. once taken out of the circuit the voltage reg sees an infinate battery and trys to charge it. alt output goes to max. this can easily burn up the diodes. disconnecting to check for operation is not acceped as a test by any manufact.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,855 Posts
Galaxz, that's not especially true, I've done it several times. But this 6t3 don't need to do that.

6t3

You need a MULTIMETER and a test light.

Test all those wires going to the big black links and test both sides to and from the alternator.

BUT FIRST! LOL

Start car. Put Multimeter to VDC or Volts DC or DC Current. Place + on red and - on Black and with engine running if you do NOT have a minimum of 13.7 volts, then you have problems. If you have MORE than 14.8 VOlts, then you have another problem.

If ALL wires show conductivity between their prospective ENDS and the alternator and the battery and you STILL have a 12 volt reading while the engine is running, then you may have a bad out of the box regulator, or alternator ETC...

Report back. PM one of us if the thread goes too long without getting read.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,337 Posts
Galaxz, that's not especially true, I've done it several times. But this 6t3 don't need to do that.
Uh... SPARKY (aka FE), it is one dumb thing to do. While it may not cause a voltage spike, one never pulls this trick. It is akin to the old heat and beat system of working on cars. Thankfully, training has put a stop to some of this moronic behavior but it still is practiced freely in less than professional repair shops and in home garages and driveways.

While you have done many things (as have I) that may bite you but doesn't, don't pass the idiocy to newbies so that hopefully these practices will stop.

He starts by placing the MULTI-METER on the ALT output post and progress through the charging system circuit from there.

- http://www.delcoremy.com/Documents/diagnostic-manual.aspx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Problem Solved!

KULTULZ, wish i would have had that link one week ago! Between that and a good friend with better understanding of wiring than i put these issues to rest.

After confirming battery and alternator with Voltage meter and test light;

We started with bolting regulator down not just using self tapping screws. Then we replaced the snap on buttons on the back of alternator with "eye" connections and held with a nut. We then cleaned the contacts on the wireing harness to regulator. We got it to charge for a moment but then lost it. we thought we had a bad regulator so swaped it out and nothing. Then like an idiot i should him the Generator to Alternator swap in the back of parts catalog. He determined there should be a wire that "upsets" the regulator and it wasn't happening. We confirmed this with a test light to the back terminals on alternator. we hooked up the black/red wire coming across radiator that was "hot" to the green wire in regulator harness and BINGGO!

While he was there i took advantage of his knowlege and got the brake lights and tailligts hooked up!!! confirmed everything with a quick cruise to the interstate (6miles) to get a SubWay sandwich...

Stil have some questions on what i found but will save that for another thread.

Hope to start driving a few days this week and put some real miles on her!

Thanks everyone for there help
Kevin
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,855 Posts
Like I said. He DOES NOT NEED TO DO THAT.

And we aren't talking about modern charging systems here. But for a guy in a parking lot without any tools, that's a damn good way to tell if your alternator isn't working. NOTWITHSTANDING the dangers of Battery acid vapor ignition from the sparking that WILL occur when the cable is taken off and put back on a running engine with a WORKING alternator!

If the ALT is NOT WORKING, then there WILL NOT be a spark... But that's not the point.

Like I said above, and this stands true here, Listen to old SPARKLESS SPARKY (yeah I done some unconventional schitt, but I never melted a wire nor blew a battery in all my time turning wrenches, and that's a long damn time, and I did it all without one DAY of classroom teaching) Test with a multimeter a running engine AT THE BATTERY for the voltages that your vehicle is rated for. If it's not found, THEN you can go prodding around the Dangerous areas at the back of the alternator with a running engine if you want to, but I dont' recommend it. I personally do all tests after that with the engine off, and or I shut off engine and connect extension leads that will make it unnecessary to be behind the alternator with the engine running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,337 Posts
disconnecting the battery with the engine running is a bad idea. the battery is part of the charging system. once taken out of the circuit the voltage reg sees an infinate battery and trys to charge it. alt output goes to max. this can easily burn up the diodes.

disconnecting to check for operation is not acceped as a test by any manufact.


Look for key words here FE. It is not arcing that is being described (even though that is another possibility), although you seem to have a penchant for seeing fireworks under the hood.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top