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IMHO and personally, I stay away from off brand parts with prices that seem a little too good.. I have seen some parts like this in person and they dont seem to hold up that well. I have had other problems with chemically polished parts, hard to keep shiny or clean. I have seen the real finned cobra oil pan, not polished, selling for $300+. If you are not putting a lot of miles on it, that might be ok.

You could ask them if its clear coated, that would make a big differance in my book.

good luck
 

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Aluminum pans look nice but when the motor blows & scatters the bottom end, they are generally rendered junk. Stock pans for me...cheap and easy to fix (usually)
 

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I have a Stef's Pan, which is a pretty expensive pan to buy new but I bought it slightly used. I even busted my ass polising it up by hand. But the damn thing leaks and didn't fit right around the rear Main Cap and Front Timing Cover. It doesn't leak bad, but enough to just piss me off to point where I plan to remove it and install another pan.

I have also heard that some Canton Pans have the same problem. I might go with a Milodon Pan or just stock, My stock pan never leaked a drop in 3 years and that was with cork gaskets. I'd rather have a pan that didn't leak and fits right then something I have to continually clean.
 

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Alum looks nice if you drive it once in awhile or it's a show car. When it's on top that's one thing, but down at the bottom where road grime, oil, etc get on it and bake it on, can't see it. When the Shelby pans came out that was intended for racing and cooling back then. Technology has replaced that idea. They still look good and work, but for everyday driver, I wouldn't. Besides, what happens when you hit something with the oilpan, rocks, curbs, etc, it'll c rack and leak. Metal will bend some and it's a lot easier to fix if need be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a stock metal pan on it now and replaced the chrome valve covers with aluminum Ford motor sports covers in order to get rid of some heat.I have a new chrome oil pan but was thinking chrome oil pan = more heat,so I have not put it on.Thinking maybe aluminum pan would be the better choice.I have only put about 10,000 miles on this car in 10 years.I'm not to concernd about hitting anything that would damage the oil pan but it sounds like they have leaking problems.Looks like I may be better off keeping the stock pan ?
 

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Chrome pan isn't a good idea. It holds in too much heat.

I've used the Cobra "T" pan on several cars. Only had a problem with one of them around the rear main rubber seal. Pan had a casting flaw in it. Fixed it up with a die grinder in a couple of minutes.

One big plus with the "T" pan is that is drops the oil temp. well.

Looks Awesome too.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Gearhead99 on 12/26/06 6:40pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
you said casting flaw,is that an aluminum pan ? it looks like it's metal.wish I could find one like that for 79 bucks.
 

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Aluminum pans are prone to fatigue failure. Maybe OK for drag race only and perhaps more viable in small block applications. I have seen cracking, leaking and disintegration with bits of scrapers and other internal pieces coming bouncing aournd inside the crankcase - and this is with engineered products from well reputed brands.
 

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On 2006-12-26 03:39, Gearhead99 wrote:
Chrome pan isn't a good idea. It holds in too much heat.

I've used the Cobra "T" pan on several cars. Only had a problem with one of them around the rear main rubber seal. Pan had a casting flaw in it. Fixed it up with a die grinder in a couple of minutes.

One big plus with the "T" pan is that is drops the oil temp. well.

Looks Awesome too.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Gearhead99 on 12/26/06 6:40pm ]</font>
Hello,

i use this Cobra pan too. I polished it myself. Stroker and main girdle clearance no problem.
http://212.227.100.192/mustang/stroker/einbau/liftbig.jpg

Markus
 

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My Canton pan fits great and has never leaked a drop.
 
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