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Discussion Starter #1
Seems to be a common theme.

Been commuting for a few weeks in my Falcon (which is why I bought it). It wanders pretty badly on the freeway.

At last check, all the tie rod ends looked good, and I just replaced the front bearings in doing by disc brake swap (chokostang 4-pot swap). It doesn't seem to be bump related, so I'm thinking it's the steering box.

I already adjusted down the preload (or whatever it is) screw on the box, which tightened things up a bunch, but it still semi-randomly likes to change direction.

A $1k R&P is out of the question right now, and it seems new/rebuilt boxes are like $350-500.

...but there's this one on eBay for super cheap:
1965 Falcon Comet Steering Box 1963 1964 ??? : eBay Motors (item 290433673848 end time May-16-10 08:02:25 PDT)

Came out of a 65. My car's a 64.
Further complication: my car was originally a 6cyl car 2-speed auto car which has been converted to V8 with a full trans + drivetrain + spindles swap (8" + 5-lug). But the tube around the steering shaft with the column shifter arm thing is still there. Are the boxes different?
Will it work?
 

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Your wandering may be caused by bad alignment now. Someone swapped the toe in offset for a toe OUT offset. I just loosed up the tube clamps and pipe wrenched them over three turns, and that certainly was better steering then.

Wm.
 

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Before you spend any more $$$ on that - assuming the existing parts are in good condition - find an alignment shop that will work with you on the car. Set the toe and camber to stock settings (depending on the tires) and crank in as much positive caster as you can get, up to maybe +3. 2 to 2 1/2 is a good target. I doubt you'll get that much, depends on the strut rods and the type of front strut rod bushings installed. The stock spec is like a negative number and that doesn't really work with a rear steer car. They did it so grandma could turn the wheel with one finger.
 

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Came out of a 65. My car's a 64.
64/65 Steering boxes are different. The '64 has a 1-1/8" sector...the '65 is a 1" sector. If you swap to a '65 you will need to swap centerlink, tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm.

Try the numbers ckelly posted. If you used the factory specs with steel belted tires your car will wonder.

If you have power steering then it is the nature of the assist steering system...rebuild or replace the control valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh yeah: it's manual steering.

64/65 Steering boxes are different. The '64 has a 1-1/8" sector...the '65 is a 1" sector. If you swap to a '65 you will need to swap centerlink, tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm.
If it comes with a pitman arm, then why would I need to swap the centerlink? Are the pitman arm geometries different between 64 and 65?

Of course, the fun part is I have no f-ing idea which parts (I-6, V8, Falcon, Mustang) are on it currently.

I'm a big fan of not just throwing parts (and money) at things, so I'll probably go alignment first.

Actually, I'll probably go Shelby drop first, then alignment.

So yeah, if anyone wants a good deal on a '65 steering box, you might want to click that link.^^^
 

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One of the replys answered is correct: 1 1/8 sector shaft and 1" My 64 had a
1 1/8 sector WITH power steering. There is a site out there that lays out the different boxes for the Falcon. The Mustang box steering shaft to steeing wheel is LONGER than the Falcon. the Falcon center link is different between the 6 cyl and v8. The center link for the V8 has four holes 2 each side in line with each other. The hole that is in line with the rest of the link hooks up to the idler arm on one side and the pitman arm on the other. The remaining holes connects to the tie rods. For manual steering, the INNER tie rods thread in counter clockwise onto the sleeve. The OUTER tie rod is clockwise and threads into the sleeve too. Of course the sleeves are right hand & left hand threaded. Don't mess them up by force-starting the tie rods! The idler arm for 64 is expensive & I am not sure if still available Same with the pitman arm. That arm has a stud on it to connect it to the center link. For power steering, it is a different set up. The outer tie rods are getting VERY rare and is charging almost $100. each. Not made by Moog, TRW etc.

By the way, just before the long stering shaft enters the box, there is ANOTHER adjustment--one with a big nut..probably can't see it because of the greas/oil. But that too needs to be adjusted. Adjusting the top screw alone will grind the sector shaft gear against the worm gear ruining the 2 gears. I know you are on a budget, but use this info as a guide.

The article I was referring to uses the 1965 FALCON NOT THE MUSTANG manual steering setup as a conversion alternative. The center link and all the parts are available and cheper than the 64 stuff. The idler arm and the pitman arm are different and the idler arm bolts differently, but your 64 has these bolt holes already---just not being used. The pitman arm has 2 holes in it and the left hand side of the center link has a stud to go into the pitman. The inner tie rods are the same used as the Mustangs manual but much longer, but the outers are unique to the Falcon spindles and Mustang outers won't work as their stud-to-spindle are smaller than the Facon spindles.

Because your steering was a 6 cyl, I think that all of the steering was changed over to manual, but may have a mis mash of the v8 parts that are worng. The 6 cyl parts are smaller, like the tie rod studs and center link as the car was not to seen as a v8 more power. That was Ford's idea then to use different sized parts for the 6 cyl and v8. the spindles for a v8 is different than the 6 cyl. The steering box I think were the same whether it was 6 or 8 cyl accordingly or with power steering or not. Sounds screwy, but Ford straightened it out with the intro of the Mustang and used the technology on the other cars. hope this helps. Learned from experince as my falcon was in the family since new.
 

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here is a suggestion that some said won't work. I had to replace the box in my 64 comet fe build. I upgraded to all the 65 components to fix the geometry problems. I was given a 65-66 mustang box that was rebuilt. now we know the steering shaft on it is about 3" longer or so. what i did was to cut off the shaft about 3" from the box and shorten the shaft the required (forget the actual measurement) amount, then got a borgensen connector that was in rubber to reduce vibration. it has/uses/needs the ends to be flattened to slip in it, then tightens down with 2 set screws on each end. since it is round and slightly smaller than the inside of the steering column tube it slips right in. with mine installed you cannot tell that I do not have a stock steering assy. of course you have to run a 4 speed or other and the stock column has to be gutted on the end to slip over the connector. all in all a very clean and easy mod to do. now I have a good box and if I have to change it for some reason the all the column items do not have to come completely out. besides mustang boxes are much more available than the falcon/comet.

if you are interested I can look up the borgensen number tonight and post them.

alan
 

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Madscience...64 and 65 are two different animals when it comes to steering ...even the electrical system is different when it comes to horns and charging system.

Here's a pic to see the difference that Falconguy52 is talking about
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Madscience...64 and 65 are two different animals when it comes to steering ...even the electrical system is different when it comes to horns and charging system.

Here's a pic to see the difference that Falconguy52 is talking about
Cool. Loves me some diagrams.

What's different between the I-6 and V8 parts?

(again, all manual)
 

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Thanks 1bad.

Like they say...a picture is worh a 1000 words. BTY...a Mustang center link WILL NOT WORK. It is about 2' wider than is needed from the Falcon.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
^^^This is what my linkage looks like: center link is straight with only one hole at each end. Idler and pitman have 2 holes each, tie rods connect directly to idler/pitman arms.

Apparently my car's sporting a swapped-in V8 with V8 5-lug hubs, but 6-cylinder steering linkage. I thought I read somewhere that wouldn't work. Apparently it does.

So, what's the proper P/N for the 6-cylinder box?

It's "3504" in the diagram, but it appears that's the parts group number for steering boxes (i.e., they're all 3504s).
 

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Madscience...64 and 65 are two different animals when it comes to steering ...even the electrical system is different when it comes to horns and charging system.

Here's a pic to see the difference that Falconguy52 is talking about
Do you have a way to get part numbers for all the lower items in the picture? We put a supposedly bolt on power steering conversion system from CPP on this 64 and the Pittman arm that came with the new box is like the 65 that doesn't have the ball joint in it. CPP is no help at all as they keep saying we should have what we need in the kit. But The pitman arm they sent in the kit doesn't have a ball joint for the center link
 

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Do you have a way to get part numbers for all the lower items in the picture? We put a supposedly bolt on power steering conversion system from CPP on this 64 and the Pittman arm that came with the new box is like the 65 that doesn't have the ball joint in it. CPP is no help at all as they keep saying we should have what we need in the kit. But The pitman arm they sent in the kit doesn't have a ball joint for the center link
I'd check the website or the guys at Falconparts.com for the details on this:
 
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