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Discussion Starter #1
the old gall was running rough, was at Summit for some other stuff, asked about points/cap/rotor... guys like, hmm points might be fun...as hes looking i mentioned pertronix, and how i'd still liked the thought that car has zero electronics onboard...he closes his book and says he put a pertronix in his chevy 8 yrs ago, never touched it...and now Accel makes one too, like 60 bucks... ok sold.

oh my God... that car had ALWAYS cranked 15-30 seconds to start, but always starts...58,000 miles on the original starter, still amazes me every time i turned the key- but... now when you turn the key, it starts in like 1/2 a second. unbelievable difference. think I might start carrying a spare coil, as its got to be putting more power to it, and at nearly 50 yrs old its days are probably numbered too, but man, what a improvement in starting/cold idling.

if anyone else out there is on the fence about adding electronics to a old car, I'm sold.
Also, for some silly reason, Accel kit instructions say to remove the distributor- totally unnecessary. I did need to open up the hole for the wire grommet, but had a drill long enough to open it in place, just taped up inside to keep chips from dropping down inside... be careful not to drop any screws, and no reason to have to pull it.
 

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Kind of wondering about those too. After my old iron sits I have to file the points just to get them started. Listening to the guys on the Ford Barn seems that most of the ignition problems they have are from cheap imported points, condensers and coils. Thought I would end up with Dura spark but these under cap types look easier. You can always keep your old points and condenser in the glove box with a screwdriver.
 

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While the DuraSpark is a good and solid system, and a reliable high-energy system can be assembled really cheap, all the benefits of DS, MSD and more are available with simple internal modules these days. Even external multi-spark boxes are no longer necessary for max performance. Technology has come a long way in 50 years. With replacement points and condenser quality dropping quickly; might as well take advantage of it and enjoy the benefits.

BTW - Polishing the points contacts is OK for maintenance, and is most commonly done with "brown paper bag" or grocery bag material which contains a percentage of clay in the paper, and will clean and polish the contact surfaces without removing the protective plating. 3 or 4 strokes through the closed points is plenty. Filing points contacts when just cleaning them removes the plating on them that allows long life, meaning you'll have to file them a lot after that, just to keep them clean and working.

Once they get to the point that they are burned and you must file them to get good contact, the protective plating is gone, and it's time to change them out. Unfortunately, that's quite often with sub-standard replacements these days that are not ventilated like the originals, and/or have poor, thin or cheaper metal plating.
:tup:
David
 

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On my 62 I considered staying with points, then I had a realization. I can do some sort of electronic setup using stuff I have laying arond. I used a duraspark distributor and an hei module. Once I got fuel in the bowl it fired right up and idled like a champ. It never did that with points. I have the module hid in a duraspark box to make people guess. Technology has come a long way and I see no reason not to take advantage of it.
 

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Another solution for those chasing reliable ignition systems is to use a stock points distributor to trigger an MSD 6AL box. Been running this way for 4 years on mine. Starts immediately, and unless you go looking for the relay (to send 12v to the coil, rather than 9v as stock) and MSD box, both of which are tucked away out of your field of vision, everything looks stock.

Plus you get BIG sparks from the 6AL box, which is always beneficial!
 

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Accel makes one too, like 60 bucks... ok sold.... now when you turn the key, it starts in like 1/2 a second. .
I bought an Accel for like 60 bucks a couple of years ago, maybe I should put it in. Did you get electronic box or just the points replacement? Did you have to reset the timing?
 

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After having a new set of point literally fall apart after two months, bought a Pertronix I off Amazon last week for 72 bucks. Really easy install, but the instructions are pretty much worthless. The car runs good. Now if it just proves to be dependable, then I'll give this mod a thumbs up, too.
 

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I am still resisting change. But i also don't have trouble starting it. The biggest issue with it sitting a while is the fuel drain back so sometimes i have to pump spin for a sec, pump spin and then it'll start right up once it has fuel to burn. Helps a lot lol

One day i might make the leap.
 

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Mine has been sitti8ng up, I know the carb is empty. Anyone ever use a hypo or something similar to squirt gas into the vent hole and fill up the carb that way?
 

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Hello,

I've used the equivalent of the battery acid "turkey baster" to do that, just about the right size for the vent tubes on the autolite carbs, fills much faster than a small syringe.
 

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I've been known to use one of the smaller basters. It's useful for so many things (adding battery water, sucking liquids out of things, etc.) that it should be called a master baster. Sorry. However, to pre-prime a carb, I generally use one of my small funnels from a big-box cheap funnel set, or one of my "travel-size" squeeze bottles.

BTW - those little bottles come-in handy, and I grabbed a bunch of them from WallyMart, though you can get them in quantity online. They set on the back of my bench each labeled with contents such as 30W Oil, Type F, Thread Cutting Oil, Alcohol (cleaning), Diluted Soldering Resin, Assembly Lube, Distilled Water, and several other things. Sitting along the back, they keep those fluids handy while saving a lot of bench space. I use one labeled for nasty flammables like gasoline (but don't store anything in it) for things like carb priming. You can even squeeze small vacuum hose into the lid hole to accurately get it into weird places like carb vents or carb float level sight holes.

If I could find miniature "ketchup/mustard" squeeze bottles that reliably sealed at the threads, I'd use those.

David

Travel bottles hold enough stuff nearby to get the job done without having a jug on the bench:

If anyone finds a reliable source for small (3 to 4 ounce) versions of these that don't leak or cost a fortune - let me know!:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I bought an Accel for like 60 bucks a couple of years ago, maybe I should put it in. Did you get electronic box or just the points replacement? Did you have to reset the timing?
no box. just a small 'adapter' plate that screws where the points went, then the little module screws to that (assume the module was probably made for a small chevy as seems still to be more common than grains of sand), the 'trigger' is a new rotor with a slotted wheel under it, rides in a slot in the module. timing was retarded quite a bit, but close enough to start.

only problem was the connector has a 3 wire plug, and the grommet for the 3 wires wont even think of going thru the old one wire grommet hole...had to drill it out about 1/8 bigger. the little 3 pin connector just dangles, the other half of the plug goes to the coil and a ground- so you can tell its not stock :(

instructions say to pull the distributor- aside from being careful not to drop a screw down into the dist, dunno why... drilling woulda been easier, but i didnt want to pull it- had a drill long enough to open the hole up without pulling... instructions dont mention drilling, but didnt see any way otherwise. replacement rotor will be the new type with the integral slotted timing disk, but no biggie... will keep the old rotor/screws/points in the glovebox in case a solar flare/EMP takes out all the cars on the road :)
 

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David,
Instead of mustard/ketchup bottles, i just use an old gear lube 1qt squeeze bottle for gasoline. No problems.
I have one with the hole cut really small for shooting into carb vents.

I leave my rides for a month+ while I'm offshore working, shooting a lil gas in the carb makes it a lot easier to get my 76 F100 started in the airport parking lot after 30 days.
 
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