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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody in here have experience, 6 months to a year, on the street running the Crites full-size conversion (429/460 with C6) kits? Fitment, heating problems, fuel line routing, elctrical re-wiring... any "gott'cha's". I have seen pictures of the beautiful cars owned by Greg Cooke(63 1/2) and Travis Rice (65 fastback). One has an engine setback and the other is running engine plates, I look at these cars as something to shoot for-more complex than I can go at this time. So, what about you average guys? Give up the info,comments and complaints, please!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Thanks for the reply. I have poured over the pictures of your car, especially the engine. I see you are running an aluminum radiator, electric fan(?), braided hose fuel lines, must be running an electric fuel pump if you started with the 514 crate engine. There must be some differences in the 63 1/2 and the 65 kits. Your engine seems to have room between the water pump/radiator? Are the changes for performance or required to make it fit, work right? Any overheating problems? I am being very nosey, don't want to reinvent the wheel if someone has already found that round is right!
 

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http://community.webshots.com/album/41438871vITzks

I used the mounts and 2" headers on my 68 460/c6.Headers are the easyest ones I have ever installed but with 3 - 4 inches of ground clearance I really have to watch where Im driving.Mounts work well but as others have said it raises motor alot and also moved mine forward to the point that with a flex fan I have about 1" clearance to rad.Not bad for a universal kit but could be MUCH better.Also the slip fit collectors leak like a siv.I am mostly street so I used header wrap around collector which works real nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am installing the starter and headers this morning. Probably will not install the collectors yet, I want to trial fit everything before tightening it down. I had the headers coated, inside and out, the collector/tube connection is firm, might need the copper RTV to "lube" more than to seal. Still haven't figured out the fuel lines yet. I want to replace the 5/16 factory hard line with a custom 3/8 or 1/2 in (factory style pre bent) line from one of the places in the car mags...besides that, do you suggest a return line or will the regulator be able to handle the "backwash"? Before I have always depended on the mechanical fuel pump, didn't trust electrical stuff on the engine-heck I'm just now converting from a dual point distributor. The ads I've seen say they have templates for and can produce any line in larger sizes, I haven't called yet. So the choice now is hard lines, in stainless or regular steel, or braided lines? What kind of pump is good, I think I need/want 100 gph or better, as quiet as possible and retain the factory tank. As you may have realize by now, I try to keep the car in stealth mode - low profile, get more victims that way. I was thinking holley "red" pump, but I understand they are real loud.



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 6/30/02 12:12am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh...are any of you, especially those running BBF aluminum heads, using header gaskets? Seems a lot of people claim to get a better seal/fit running metal to metal, others swear by copper, a few even like the paper looking Mr.Gasket type,; personally, I think the FelPro sandwiched gaskets are near perfect. I wonder if the aluminum heads don't track or pit from the steel to aluminum contact. What's your take on that? Gasket, which type, or no gaskets?
 

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HEY HEY I almost forgot this, on the 68 Galaxie with the crite motormounts a stock starter had zero clearance to the crossmember so I had to use a mini hi-torque which is nice anyway.With some grinding you can make it fit.I did try the high temp goo on the header collectors and it lasted for most of the summer.If I ever do this type of transplant again I will make my own mounts.
 
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