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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well i got some with 5/16 heads for more clearance i got the 12pt ones, should i have gotten the hex ones? seems they are so hard if i were to strip the heads off either style bolts i would never be able to get them off. i mean how could you tap them? i will use the 12pt but very carefully, sure the engine heads would strip out prior to the bolt heads but dang i was just thinking of what a catastrophe that would be.
 

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Arp makes just the dam best fasteners there are. You will strip the threads out of the head out or bust your wrench before youd round their 12point fastener.
If i were you id invest in a couple of nice Snap on or equivalent quality wrenches though so they fit better on the points.

For comparison i bought the breslin locking header bolts. They were a fortune ($70) and the locking design although inovative and works awsome, the bolt material (stainless) and softness leaves alot to be desired. I imagine that the bolt doesnt havet to be arp hardness because they dont need to be tight like a normal header bolt, but still i was a little dissapointed at the softness.
http://www.go-breslin.com/text.html


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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 71hotrodpinto on 2/28/06 2:53pm ]</font>
 

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You should use the hex heads. I buy regular cad plated header bolts at the parts store and trash them every time I pull them if they have the least bit of rounding. If one gets stuck, the worst part is getting the engine out with a header attached. In some cases you'd have to pull engine and trans both. Then about 2 minutes with a drill and an easy out and you're all fixed up. Been there, done that.
 

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I dont like the 12 point because you cant use a wrench.

Sometimes an open end wrench is the "correct" tool for the job.

Just dont buy cheap wrenches
I have Snap-on stuff, and I can get every bolt as tight as I need to with the open side (although like everyone else, I always try to use the box or a socket when i can)
 

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I couldn't get a box end or socket on most of the header bolts I install. Don't know what motor or header you're thinking of, but on my Fords it's all about 7/16" open end. There's no room around the tubes for a box wrench or socket.
 

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Hex is actually better in hard to get to spots. You can make your own open end wrench to get to them. 12pt work nicely in good spots but a hex is also easier for a socket to use.
 

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Don't get 12 point!! Half of your tools won't fit on them. Believe me, I made that mistake. I thought 12 point bolts would look better than 6 point. It seems that when you're tooling along installing bolts with a ratchet and socket, there's invariably one bolt you need to use a wrench on. With 6 points, you can use every wrench you have, 12 points you can't.

Also...All of the bolts on my 408 are ARP, except...the intake bolts I ordered are too short for my Victor Jr. The header bolts I ordered are too short for my header flanges. Order your bolts by length if possible. Especially if you have aluminium heads. I stripped one of the intake bolt holes & just did catch myself with my thick flange headers.

P.S. Had to run over to the flea market to buy a set of 12 point 1/4" drive sockets... Stay away my son.

Rick
 

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Ok big debate here huh?
Go 12 point and get a quality 12point wrench of 2 different length, or offsets. Reason? becuase when your in a tight spot and you have just 6 points, you turn the open end over it doesnt slide on, You turn it over again and it will slide on and then doesnt turn ,Your stuck!
The standard wrench you will buy from sears or kragen etc has a thick edge around the box end. Wont go on. Most HIGH quality wrenches have a much thinner edge. But the ARP 400-1210 has a 5/16 12 point wrench dia. and a 1.0 long thread. I cant see that interfering with the tubes or stripping out. Just take a 3/8 16 tap and run the threads till they bottom. I did this in my iron 68 heads. 1.0 long fit with the relativly thin 1/4 flanges
I have the breslin 12 points stainless 1.0 long and they have the 7/16 head. I used a 7/16 ignition wrench ground thinner to get in next to my headers on only a couple of bolts near the back.
12 points are not so much a looks issue on headers. Its the function of clocking the wrench as you get in tight sections.

my 32 cents
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i used a 12pt closed end wrench on my 12pt. today on hooker comps, got it from sears the shiny ones they fit on some but may not on some of the other holes(each hole has its own stubborness). having no interior i could care less about looks but i have allen, hex, and 12 pt. now! the socket just wont fit on. i may have to get another long 5/16 wrench and heat and bend it to get at some of them, or find some smaller head allen bolts for some holes. sometimes the little things are a bitch. i was talking to my car alot during this last engine install...too many obsenities became her name(quite funny should you hear me under the car alone) cmon you little ------, ----- etc! thanks all for your opinions and advice

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: trukstopcowboy on 3/1/06 10:47pm ]</font>
 

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If you don't have a drawer full of 7/16 wrenches bent, twisted and otherwise modified in all kinds of ways, you haven't done very many header installs.
 

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One of the big things I've found with header installations is flange bolt holes. The bolt holes have been drilled, out of alignment which makes them almost impossible to get in the head bolt holes with the bolts. So it doesn't matter what you use, you have to fight them or leave some out. I always try to match the headers up with the heads and check the hole alignment before any bolts are attempted. You'll find even the "high" quality headers need some filing to get the bolts started.
 
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