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Discussion Starter #1
How much am I looking at paying to get hardened valve seats put in, along with a new valve job on a pair of 2v aussies...?

Also from the previous discussions it seems like it would be a good idea to use the stock size valves but... what about using the stock intake valve but going with the bigger exhaust valve? Will this help if using radical cam?
 

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I just paid $444 which included grinding for 4V valves, exhaust seats, new guides, surfacing and assembly. I provided valves, springs, retainers and keepers.
 

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I just dug out my receipt.

Valve job = $125
Labor to open up intake ports for 4V valve = $79
Cut and install exhaust seats = $96

Steve
 

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Cut and pasted from Dave William's site...

http://www.angelfire.com/ar/dw42/

Here's what he has to say about hardened seats... Oh, by the way, my heads spent 8-9 years on the mustang WITHOUT hardened seats, and have had no problems with seat recession. The only way to cause seat recession is to run a head under a CONTINUOUS high load... such as extreme towing up and down hills. The average hotrod won't have any problems. If you're still paranoid, add a splash of av-gas to the tank every now and then for a little lead content. (and octane boost)

From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: hardened valve seats?
To: [email protected]

-> My question is about hardened valve seats, I have put them
-> in the past rebuilds I have done, but since then I heard
-> some people say that they weren't nessecary. I learned they

Inserted seats are for repair. They interfere with heat flow from the valve; the ports have to be ground to blend the seat in; improper installation (can you tell with your naked eye?) will let them come loose, with potential for catastrophe. The cutting necessary to install the seats weakens the head and can promote cracking, particularly if the head is subjected to higher than stock pressures or heat, ie a high performance engine.
You want inserted seats about as badly as you want a veneral disease.

Most shops call them "hardened" seats; most inserts are plain old cast iron, like they just carved out of your heads. True hard seats are Stellite and they cost over $10 each, and they're righteous bastards to cut a seat on.
 

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I've read that larger valves - esp intakes - in those Aussie heads are more likely to lose than gain power due to the shrouding of the valve in the closed chamber (larger valve = more shrouding). The one thing that helps more than anything is opening up the exhaust port (maybe Extrude Hone?) as the closed chamber Cleveland Aussie heads are from 302 engines, not 351's.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So would it help to run a bigger exhaust valve in the aussies and port the exhausts?

Or would it be best to leave the valves and just go with a port?
 

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I have seen problems with engines that did not have hardened valve seats that ran on unleaded fuel. It was on a 351w in a 69 Mach 1 a few years ago. The motor rebuilt before at an unknown mileage still having an ID tag on the engine. I was installing a Performer cam and got down to reinstalling the rocker arms and found the valves were at all different heights. I pulled the heads and found the exhaust valves were sunk into the heads bigtime. This was a clean car and was well taken care of. I dont think the car was ragged on. I always have hardened seats installed on my old motors when doing a valve job if I want it to last.


Blue Fastback
 

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I had 2.07 intakes and 1.71 exhaust installed in my Aussie heads. I had both sides ported (and polished) and the chambers unshrouded and polished. Although I didn't have my heads flowed, the shop that did them said that similarly worked heads flowed around 240 @ 28" and (I believe) 160 @ 28" on the exhaust side. Hope this helps... SP
 

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Granted the 2v heads I ported weren't Aussie heads, but I used stock diameter Ferrea valves (1.65), and I got 188.9 cfm @ 28" out of mine on the exhuast side.
 

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I dont know the name of it, since the shop I go thru takes them to him, but he does about 90% of the cylinder head work for the nitro harley racers so his bench is real accurate. His shop is in the quad cities, in Leclair I think.
 

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Thanks Kid. What shop do you use? Is it down there in your neck of the woods? I'm curious b/c I thought maybe the next time I had my heads off the car I might try to get them flowed if the timing (and price) worked out. BTW, how much does it typically cost to have flow work done by them?
 

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I have all my cylinder head work doen by a shpt called Auto-Ron's in Davenport. It costs liek $70 to have on eintake port and one exhuast port flowed. It's kinda pricey, but since I know his numbers are accurate, I pay it.

I used to have access to a flow bench,(cheap too, $25 got me up to 4 hours of time on it) but he sold it then moved away.
 
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