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This is the body to frame bushings kit you get from Auto Krafters. I paid $150 plus shipping. 58 pieces. I have grouped the bushings into there own type photos to avoid confusion. Some are up side down so you can see the bottoms. The website doesnt have an image so you can see what your buying. Here is the link to where you can find them.
BODY MOUNT KIT 58 PIECES
 

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TJ67;

So what is your assessment of the body mount kit vs the body mounts you pulled/removed from your Galaxie's frame? Does it appear as though the mounts are the right size and shape? What are your plans for the fasteners (as in what are you using; hardware store bolts?) when you reassemble with the new mounts?

I am at the cross roads for separating the frame/body on my 66 Custom 500, but the nuts at the 4 mounts at the lower cowl/firewall, only spin. Previous recommendations have ranged from cutting the torque box open to gain access to the nuts to just cutting thru the bushings/studs/nuts with a sawzall.

I also am trying to understand exactly where the remaining mount fasteners are, excluding the 4 at the lower cowl/firewall in front. Are there bolt/fasteners in that go into the rear torque boxes? What about other locations along the frame rails? It looks like some of the mounts are positioned between the frame and body, but have NO fasteners that keep them in place. Do these just use a small locating "nub" on the bushing that aligns with a hole in the frame, and the bushing is sandwiched trapped between the two when the other mounts are bolted together?

I'm too chicken to jump right in and cut the studs without having a believable (to me at least) re-assembly plan. I don't have the freedom (or the space) to leave the two apart indefinitely as I try to engineer a re-assembly process that includes sourcing some perhaps hard to locate components/fasteners.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TJ67;

So what is your assessment of the body mount kit vs the body mounts you pulled/removed from your Galaxie's frame? Does it appear as though the mounts are the right size and shape? What are your plans for the fasteners (as in what are you using; hardware store bolts?) when you reassemble with the new mounts?

I am at the cross roads for separating the frame/body on my 66 Custom 500, but the nuts at the 4 mounts at the lower cowl/firewall, only spin. Previous recommendations have ranged from cutting the torque box open to gain access to the nuts to just cutting thru the bushings/studs/nuts with a sawzall.

I also am trying to understand exactly where the remaining mount fasteners are, excluding the 4 at the lower cowl/firewall in front. Are there bolt/fasteners in that go into the rear torque boxes? What about other locations along the frame rails? It looks like some of the mounts are positioned between the frame and body, but have NO fasteners that keep them in place. Do these just use a small locating "nub" on the bushing that aligns with a hole in the frame, and the bushing is sandwiched trapped between the two when the other mounts are bolted together?

I'm too chicken to jump right in and cut the studs without having a believable (to me at least) re-assembly plan. I don't have the freedom (or the space) to leave the two apart indefinitely as I try to engineer a re-assembly process that includes sourcing some perhaps hard to locate components/fasteners.
Well I was just out there peicing together my old mounts to figure out what I needed out of this kit. I figure the small pieces dont go with my frame because I never saw these anywhere. My studs in the front also spun and were clearly not worth saving so I took a sawzall and within 15 minuites, I had them cut and out. My hardware is kinda useless so I figure I will use large washers and maybe even large bolts. what was left of the original bolts leaves too much room through these mounts. The factory bushings were like a doughnut(front cowl), with a small rubber insert that made it tight to the bolt(I will post a pic). The bottom seemed like one large piece without the insert but still tight to the bolt. Does that make sense? So, no I cannot say this is a perfect kit just yet. I am still trying to figure out how to make it all tight. The rear mounts are all thats left. No rear torque box mounts. The final 4 are in the trunk. Hop in there and look all the way in the back close to the tail lights. On each side you will see a bolt head. Just peek underneath to verify its going through a mount. Then look up where the trunk has like a higher level deeper inside the trunk. There are two more. All other rubber you can see are just pads. No bolts.
 

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Radiator core support.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh ok. Well I actually did not consider those. Mine dont look too bad but I will have a better look once I pull the hardware off. I still need to learn what the shimming is all about up there. I have yet to look that up. I know nothing about body work, or alignment.
 

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funny to see this post today...
this afternoon, we loaded up the remains of my old '89 Mark VII we stripped as a donor for my sons car, and sweeping up under the shell were what looked like the steel body mount inserts from our 65??? granted the 65 was near ten years ago, but these looked awful familiar... a little digging and found they fell out of the tranny mount... I'll try to measure one up tomorrow and post the dimensions, if your steel parts are rotted, *might* be a possible replacement available in fox chassis tranny mount parts... will let you know. I dont believe the 65 steel inserts are available anywhere, just the rubber.

I think the 65 had some that were threaded inside the tubes, but I dont recall for certain- the tranny inserts were more of just a washer/tube stamping, but sure looked similar
Tim
 

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TJ,
just going from memory here, but...
with the rubbers, you will *need* some kind of steel inserts for the attachment points...look again at that frame drawing from a while ago, note how the bottom washer/tube sits on the frame, then a rubber with a raised center goes over that, the body sits on there, then inside the mount box, another rubber goes, with a center relieved to go over the lower rubber part sticking thru the mount...then finally a washer goes on top, when the nut is tightened, it crushes all the stuff together until the washer on top tightens against the steel center tube...this allows 'tight' without crushing the rubber so much as to split it.

worst case, measure up the length of the rusty old parts, find a replacement steel tube of the right inside/outside diameters and cut to the original length...seemed to me they allowed about 1/8" of crush or so max on the rubber donuts, before the washer bottoms on the center tubes.

I think the rear mounts had the threads in the lower washer/center tube, seemed to me there were spanner wrench holes in the lower washer- the lower washer tightened permanently to the long bolt thru the frame, then the rubber/body/rubber/washer/nut was crushed together all by the nut...

Ive got a big old lathe and a CNC mill in the garage, maybe should start turning these steel things up- seems odd noone has made replacements yet...if I coulda found the rubber parts, probably would have for ours...as it was I bought a urethane kit for a chevelle and turned them as needed to fit, but on the slick POR15 painted frame, the floating pads squeak/creak like a old door when you get it on a bumpy road or frame twisting driveway approach, really irritating... doubt I'll ever have the ambition to swap them out, but you never know :)
 

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Before you pull the core support, measure it. From the frame to top of core support. When you replace the bushing , put it back at that measurement. it affects the aligment of the fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok thanks Randy. I just got the newer frame. The seller was able to save alot of his old hardware thank god. I will be trying to freshen up those parts. Right now Im stripping the frame down to the rails for sandblasting. I will be chiming in soon with updates and probably new questions once the frame is going back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
With the hardware that came with the new frame, I managed to piece together a full factory mount. Let me first start by saying, my frame is disconnected, but still under the body to keep the body from falling to far should something terrible happen. I wasn't able to get a super good look at them until I brought home the new frame. The answer is so simple! In the frame, there are j-nuts that the body mounts attach to. (I will post pictures tomorrow.)There is a stud that goes through a large washer and into the frame, and then into the j-nut. So at the bottom of the mount, there is actually a place to put a wrench to hold the stud steady. From there up its rubber, frame, rubber, washer, nut. This is the first time I have ever had the opportunity to strip a frame down like this so forgive me if this is basic mechanics to you pros. Seems like you could make a special wrench real narrow at the point to fit under those mounts to hold the stud still. Also I can say that this bushings kit so far is 90% correct. I still need to figure out the oversized hole issue. There is a rubber center missing or something. Still working on it. Will update when I know more. Oh and if your looking for those j-nuts that go in the frame, or any other hard to find fastener, you gotta check this site out!!!
http://www.justclippsauto.com/
 
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