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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed a remanufactured Autolite 2100 2bbl carb on my 302 (in a 64 Galaxie).

I re-used the old fuel filter that screws into the front of the carb. I was just outside adjusting the choke and noticed after starting the car that gas is leaking from where the filter screws in.

I tightened it about a 1/4 turn but the leak persisted, and I don't want to over-tighten it (I really don't think I have over-tightened it).

Forgive the dumb question, but should I coat the threads or use a washer or do something else? Or maybe I didn't tighten it enough, but I doubt it.

Thanks...
 

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Well, No.1 you always use a new filter with a rebuilt carb. Now that I have scolded you... :)

Now, it may be the threads in the rebuilt were damaged. It might be you overtightened when you installed it. Did it feel good going in... :confused:

There were two different screw-in filters of the period. Was the thread size and pitch correct?

If the threads are not damaged, you might try a small strip of Teflon tape or liquid Teflon (PERMATEX). Otherwise you are going to have to chase the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I deserve the scolding.

The old filter did feel good going in. I just removed it to check the threads, and the carb threads look fine. The filter threads look decent but not perfect; some appear a little rough, almost as if there are a few very small nicks. But nothing major. And the flat base of the filter isn't completely smooth and clean either. It looks a little corroded. I'm not sure if that has any effect or not.

I think I will get a new filter (duh) and some permatex and try that.
 

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Only TEFLON PASTE and use very sparingly. Do not allow to enter carb...
 

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The threads on that are a pipe PITCH with a fine thread. You screw it in a little tighter and it will stop leaking.

Those filters have a micromoulded (I don't have a name for it so I invented that one) mesh in them not paper, and if you feel something moving inside when you shake it you need to replace it. Otherwise it's fine if it flows fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nothing moves inside but I might as well get a new one.

As for tightening more, I did that initially and it seemed the leak worsened. Maybe I should have tightened even more, but I was worried about stripping threads in the carb, as the base of the filter seemed to be up against the carb too.

As for the paste, thanks for the clarification. I'll only use a tiny bit on the threads near the back of the filter.
 

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DOH! If the base of the filter hit the carb then you need a gasket, because you do NOT have the pipe thread style filter!

There are filters that seat and seal on a paper style gasket and filters that seal pipe-thread style, Both are very similar in appearance.

The gasket is sort of thick and comes in all Autolite rebuild kits. It looks most like the gasket used on the power valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just bought and installed a new fuel filter.

Seems the original filter was wrong, because its base did hit the carb. This new one went in easy at first, but resistance increased due to the taper. I stopped when it felt right (with the base about a 1/4" away from the carb) and fired her up - no gas leaks.

I didn't see a gasket on the old carb, but there was a lot of gunk there - perhaps the remnants of the paper filter GoingBroke mentioned?

Thanks guys for your help. I can say I did something right today.
 

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There is no gasket, it is NPT and closes the threads as it is tightened. With today's wide array of CHI-COM parts, it's hard to say what was on there. You were right not to over tighten it.

BTW- If you will notice on the instructions, the warranty is usually no good w/o a new filter. There is a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm surprised the carb didn't come with a filter, either installed or separate.

I'm just glad I caught the leak before it decided to befriend the coil and toast my car.

Now I just need to figure out why I can't set the choke ... (new thread to come if I can't get help from resident experts ...)
 

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There was no instruction sheet? Does the rebuild have a new choke cap on it or do you need to use the old one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, but instructions were not very useful.

The carb came with a new cap - piece of crap, I might add. The spring kept coming out of the slot holder. So I cleaned and re-used my old cap and spring. Seems to work fine.

My issues have to do with the linkage I think. I can't set the choke by flooring the accelerator, and choke idle is too low. I'm not a moron but I've never tuned or set up a carb, and it's showing ;). That said, it appears there are only a limited number of things I can adjust. I'll figure it out ...
 

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Did you save (or have) the CARB. I.D. Tag No.?

I don't know if you will be able to read the photos attached.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There was no tag on the new carb, and it was missing from the old one.

I can't quite read the images but I appreciate your posting them. This carb is from 1970. Came off a truck, same as my 302.

One of your pics shows the linkages on the left side; that's what I need to understand and adjust. In addition to the issues below, I also can't kick down the motor to low idle after it's warm. I think I have a rebuild PDF file somewhere - maybe that explains the linkages and adjustments.
 

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I also can't kick down the motor to low idle after it's warm.
Most likely the fast idle adjustment is incorrect an/or the fast idle cam is not dropping. I wish I knew how to blow the photos up but am computer challenged.
 
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