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1963 Ford Galaxie 500
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Discussion Starter #22
Well, we are done. I am amazed at the throttle response and new acceleration with the 4-bbl carb. Now getting to this point was a serious pain in the ass. As I said above, I have never delved into doing a carb adjustment or rebuild. This was quite an experience. I will start at the top.

So we got the carb on, I am using a snythetic 1" spacer with a PCV nipple on the rear. I used the gaskets that came with it. MISTAKE. We fired up the carb, and it was running super lean, and could not get it adjusted, so we suspected vacuum leak. We had one at the very front. Used the Carb Cleaner and Water tricks to diagnose. Fortunately my neighbor works on his own cars and boats, and has a lot of experience with Carburetors. So we pulled the carb, (#1), did some checking on the leveling of the carb, the spacer, and the intake. No issues there. Put it back on, same issue. (#2, #3 removals) We ended up using the gaskets out of the rebuild kit (More on the $#%#$%# Rebuild Kit in a minute). Once we got the gaskets fitted, used a bit of grease as a helper, the carb had no more leak. Still have a little bit of a leak at the new throttle rod, which has a little bit of play but can live with it.

Still having problems with the adjustment once we get this fixed, seems there is a lot of play in the choke arm going to the pump diaphragm. So working on that. Then we realize I have the choke spring set up backwards when I put it back together. I should have studied the 200+ photos better. So remove carb (#4), spend about an hour finally getting it right (took it on and off 4-5 times), and also find I have not peened the pump cover very flat, and there was a leak there as well. Take it apart, flatten it well, and put it back on.

Sometime during this process, I must have allowed the check ball from the pump to dislodge, and it was not in place. So fuel dumping again. Take carb off again (#5), fix this, put back on. Mind you we are in 106 degree heat in Arizona, so not as much fun.

Now we start working on adjustment, and we are all of a sudden way too rich. I mean dumping black smoke. So we open up the carb, and the primary bowl is full to the top. The float needle will not close all the way. The secondary is fine, but the primary will not close, no matter what the adjustment. So I use the old needle and seat, which on this antique is a check ball assembly. Fixed.

Put Carb back on, and still too rich, I mean no way we can adjust. Take the top off, and now we can watch the primary bowl draining when ignition is off. What the hell? We take the carb off (#6), check for leaks, cracks, nothing. Put it back on. Same issue. I take the Power / Economizer Valve off, and i have two gaskets. WTF? Thats on me. We put it back on, put the carb back on, same problem. Take the carb off (#7), and find the Power / Economizer valve is leaking like crazy. The whole assembly is full of fuel. So the diaphragm is toast.

Go to O'Reillys, get a new Power / Economizer valve, a 6.5, since the one in the kit was a 5.5, and buttoned it up . Put everything back together, and fired it up. Did the Idle mixture to about 2 1/2, got the idle and fast idle adjusted. It still has a bit of a rough idle, but holy cow, I am super happy with the new power this vehicle now has. With only a 302 in it, it does have some giddy up, way more than before, especially with the kickdown and throttle linkage binding up being fixed. .
 

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63 convertable
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common thing for acc pump cover and pv cover to be warped. i put them on a piece of sandpaper on a piece of glass to flatten the corners where someone overtightened,. choke link to acc pump? should be no connection
 

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1963 Ford Galaxie 500
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99 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
So I have some seriously rough idle now. Misfiring? I am going to change spark plugs and wires this week. Never had it before. Lot of vibration coming from the engine. Would I need to adjust the timing with a new Carb? Once I get rolling, I seem to have good engine response. But put it in Reverse, I can barely keep the engine running.
 

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sounds like idle mix. remove air cleaner, hand over air horn. does it speed up or slow down. if it speeds up you are lean. if it slows you are rich
 

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1963 Ford Galaxie 500
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99 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
sounds like idle mix. remove air cleaner, hand over air horn. does it speed up or slow down. if it speeds up you are lean. if it slows you are rich
Yes, we were working on that. Idle mix seems to be right, we have the mixture screws at about 2 1/2. Question, would the Power valve size make a huge difference? I have a 6.5 on it now, but some places I looked up say it should be higher.
 

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I needed two gaskets on my PC. If you go out in the morning and the bowl is empty you will need two of them also.
Does not seem like that is your issue though.
 

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1963 Ford Galaxie 500
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Discussion Starter #31
So, I am having a lot of trouble getting this carb tuned, the idle is high, and I have low vaccum. When I bring the idle down, it stalls. It is a 4100 with 1.12 venturi. What size jets would be recommended? I think it has 52/54 primaries on it now, I will have to double check. Would new/different jets make a difference here?
 

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jets are not involved in idle mix. idle speed is controlled by amount of air entering. (doesn't have to be through the carb). low vacuum will result from retarded ignition timing
 

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1963 Ford Galaxie 500
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Discussion Starter #34
So adjust the timing to increase the vacuum? That makes sense. I had no idea swapping out the carburetor would be so much work. I am reading a lot about how I should have used a 1.08 instead of a 1.12 on a Small Block, I guess I should have done more research before pulling the trigger. I am going to keep plugging away to make it work

Would decreasing the size of the venturi also work to decrease air flow and help slow the idle? I have seen some places that make a sleeve which would decrease the primaries to a 1.08. And I am thinking of getting 47 primary jets, most have said the jets I am using may be a little large for my application. Thanks again for any help, this has been an education so far.
 

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venturi size has no effect on idle. your idle speed is likely a vacuum leak. if the throttle plates are closed, idle speed is now controlled by the amount of air entering beyond what is going through the venturi
 

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1963 Ford Galaxie 500
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Discussion Starter #36
venturi size has no effect on idle. your idle speed is likely a vacuum leak. if the throttle plates are closed, idle speed is now controlled by the amount of air entering beyond what is going through the venturi
Ok, I think I am going to re-evaluate the vacuum leaks. I am going to close off everything that is not required. I did go to Rod's Carbs and get a new throttle rod, since the current one seemed to have too much play, and was causing some vacuum issues we believe. The new one is much better, with a tighter fit. I am hoping this will alleviate part of it, or maybe all of it. Thanks again for your expert advice.
 

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Getting the 4100 to match up with Edelbrock intake without leaking can be tricky. What spacer are you using?
Another possible leak area is a pooly fitted intake especially near the valve covers in the rear and the air conditioner bracket in the front.
 

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1963 Ford Galaxie 500
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Discussion Starter #38
Getting the 4100 to match up with Edelbrock intake without leaking can be tricky. What spacer are you using?
Another possible leak area is a pooly fitted intake especially near the valve covers in the rear and the air conditioner bracket in the front.
Well this intake has been on it for a while, I cannot imagine this had a vacuum leak prior to this project, with no issues on the old carb. I am using a Summit phenolic 1" spacer, and the gaskets are a perfect match both top and bottom of the spacer. It has a barb for the PCV valve, I am plugging that now while I test (Bought a vacuum tester so I can actually check it instead of just eyeballing the lean/rich issue). So that is what I am working on Friday.
 

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Here's what worked for me. First make sure the wet level of gas with the engine running Is correct.

Then take the carburetor off and look underneath at the three small holes right at the throttle plates. That is where the gas comes in when you're idling. Blast them with carb cleaner to make sure they are clear. Adjust the throttle.plate so it partially covers the vertical (transition) slot.

Next, replace the set-screw that controls the secondary plates with an Allen screw or a bolt so you can control the plates when the carb is on the car. Set that screw to spec. Now if your idle is lower than you like, open the secondary instead of the primary. This will prevent a bog on acceleration caused by not letting the transition slot work as designed..

Finally, make sure the choke plate is adjusted so when it's cold it's closed and when you press on it it snaps open and closed with a solid snapping noise. I use an electric choke.

That should do it. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
So I cleaned out the venturis really well. I bought a new primary throttle rod, which is significantly tighter, and greased the gaskets a little bit. I fired up the car, and I it seems to idle pretty well. A bit on the high side, but if I close the choke plate all the way, it sputters and dies. When I have it open just a bit, which is at the fast idle position, it runs smooth, and the vacuum is right at 20. I put it in gear, still smooth, even when I fire up the A/C. I took it for a test drive, and it seems to drive great, no real issues at all. So except for a little bit of high idle, right now it is runs well. I will try to post some photos and a video in a bit.

Do you think I need to keep messing with it? I still have to connect the electric choke I added, still deciding where to pull the 12V from. I do not want to drill into the firewall to add another wire to the ignition, but if I have to, I will. I have a GM 1-wire alternator, and the Starter solenoid is only pulling 5.4 volts with ignition on, and 8 when running.
 
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