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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
Just got back from a bit of a road trip. Went away for a couple days to a buddy's cabin and took the car for a rip.

Here are the changes from last year:

Randalls power rack and pinion (with his pump)
Custom FPA headers
Hydraulic clutch
TKO600 w/ .64 overdrive
Custom driveshaft
Swapped out the 4.11 locker and replaced it with a 3.5 strange tru trac diff
Holley 4150 750cfm Street HP with mechanical secondaries
Complete custom stereo in trunk with cd/mp3 player in the glove box

Comments/Thoughts

The trip was just over 100 miles long, so not encredibly long but enough to get a good feel for all the changes.

Headers

Great fit, and seems to breath even better, now have 1-3/4" primaries.. car is noticeably louder at any given rpm. Bottom end power seems a little better.

Steering

Had a bit of an issue with the steering intermediate shaft running into one of the header tubes, so I ended up lowering the rack about 1/4" to clear the steering shaft. To my surprise I didn't notice any bump steer issues after lowering the rack. The front end alignment still needs some tweaking, but this is my fault. When I took the car into the alignment shop I had no driveshaft in the car so he couldn't take it for a test drive.. Will be going back shortly. I think the steering shaft might still be hitting the header at full lock to lock?? Making some odd noises? Seems to have good feel at all speeds. Can't really give a 100% review on it yet because the front end isn't quite right yet...

Hydraulic clutch

This was a real PITA to get to work. I copied the jmc kit exactly and for w/e reason with my setup I couldn't get enough travel out of the slave to fully disengage the clutch. I was getting about 1-1/8" travel at best. I swapped out the CNC slave for a replacement slave with a 3/4" bore to match the master and am now getting about 1-1/2" of travel. To my surprise this wasn't enough either. I had to pre load the t/o bearing about 1/4" of inch to get it to work. This is how I've been driving it lately but have since got a bigger 7/8" master that will hopefully solve my problems. It looks like I need about 1-3/4" to fully disengage the clutch and give me some freeplay in the bearing. Because of the way the clutch is now it seems to be slipping...

Tranny

This has got to be the biggest and most noticeable change. Before I had a 4speed close ratio toploader with 4.11 gears. I couldn't take it anywhere reved too high! I did intend to race the car longer thus the reason for this setup, but after breaking many parts and tossing the racing idea I soon realized that this current gear ratio setup was not a good one for the street. The 5 speed not only shifts wayshorter, smoother and crisper and the gear ratios seem to fit the motor perfectly. In 5th gear at 2000rpm I'm doing 70mph... Mileage wise, I went from about 4mpg to 15 on that trip.. I'd still like to bring that up a little bit but it's a great starting point!

Custom driveshaft

Being that I put in the tko I had to shorten my existing driveshaft. Well I had two options to either shorten the old or get a new one made up. I ended up having one made so that if I ever decide to go back to stock I can just grab the old one.. also with the new driveshaft it's 3" tube with spicer 1350 joints, something I probably should have had when I was racing lol

Strange Tru Trac

After that racing thing I decided that the locker had to go, it wasn't very practicle with manual steering and all around street use so I swapped it out for a worm gear driven strange tru trac. I told the guy at strange that it was for a street car that I want to handle really well and still be able to make straight line use out of the motor. He said this worm gear setup is the strongest and there's no clutches to wear out... only downfall is that they are a little noiser that the averarge posi unit. The car is quite load anyways and so I thought this was a no brainer. It is a little noisy but I'm not sure if its the gear setup or the posi.. more miles will determine possibly.

Gear ratio

Obviously the 4.11's wern't very practicle for any type of highway driving so I put in some richmond 3.5's. Matched with the tko600 I think it's like coming off the line with 4.05's.. so it's quite comparable. Top end is quite insane with the 3.5's and .64 overdrive. I got the car up to 100mph cruisin at about 3000rpm!!

Holley 4150 street hp

I used to run a 750 that was re worked and bench flowed to flow 850 and while at full throttle it took it all with no bogging, however around town it would soak the rings, causing sealing issues..
With the 750 it seems to be a better balance but I still think it may be a tad rich... This is where I'm hoping to get some more mileage... I know that you make more power generally when the motor is towards the lean side but I also know that its far safer to run a little rich... I think I'll start going jetting down one step at a time. I had some o2 bungs welded into both exhaust collectors, specifically for getting a/f ratios.

Stereo

I've always loved listening to good music a little on the loud side, and now with the 5speed and lower operating rpms I can actually appreciate the sound quality that the system puts out..


Future plans

Well I was going to get some 18's and get a coil over suspension but I think I've spent way too much on the car lately and am going to drive the car as much as I can and get some use out of it.. something I haven't done so well in the last few years. I will be swapping out the master for the bigger one here soon and then maybe play with the jetting a bit... other than that its good to go. Hopefully another road trip is in store shortly

Thanks and hope you liked the reviews
Tom
 

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nicw job, were you breaking tranny parts before? ifso what parts and what toploader? were you drag racing or road racing? i have to choose soon 4sp. toploader which i have been told can handle as much hp as you can throw at it, but i have always wanted the tko600 as well, any advice?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was running a close ratio toploader that originally came with the car... no I never broke any parts with that.. but I never got any traction. I was drag racing... I would suggest a tko600 if you're going to be driving it on the street.... The toploaders work well and are very strong.... but now that I've driven with the new 5speed there is NO comparison!
Tom
 

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Tom

Did you ever run it at the dragstrip again? Where did you get the valve covers from. Great stang btw. Looks like you have a quality ride. OD is almost mandatory any more it seems.
 

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I've said it before and I'll say it again.I love the look of your car as is,with the magnums...
I'm hoping to do the same tranny swap in my car once I get the 351 in and running.Was the swap difficult?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the comments guys...
Yes I'm going to leave the magnums on for a while now....
I ran it at the track about 10 times... best time of 12.9 @110 with no traction. My best 60 ft was 1.8 but with wheel spin. I figured with proper tuning it should have gone low 12's...
It's crazy to think how much more top end it would have now with the 5 speed.

As far as the swap was concerned, was pretty straight forward, had to do a lot of research as with any other major mod. I was pleased that I didn't have to notch the shifter hole at all, that part lined up perfectly!
Are there any particular concerns you have with the swap like parts wise?
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you are using your stock mechanical linkage you can actually get a short input shaft tranny that avoids the shortening of the driveshaft. However you would need the correct bellhousing for this application, I believe the bearing retainer is bigger on the tko.
If you went with the standard length tko you'd need the spacer/adapter plate and you'd also have to shorten your driveshaft. I think I had to shorten mine about 2" or so... was quite a bit shorter... ended up being 48.75" from center to center. Don't go by my measurements as every car is different of course.
You'll need a new crossmember for the tko.... and you'll also need either a new clutch or a new clutch disc that has 26 splines.. versus the old style 10 splines.
They usually come with a mount and the yoke... keep in mind it's a bigger yoke (C6 style) so you might have to adjust your front u joint accordingly.
The tko comes with a factory hurst short throw shifter you just need to select a stick and ball...
For the speedometer and backup lights its pretty straight forward.
It comes with a mechanical pickup and an electronic pickup. I elected for the electronic as I've got an elec. autometer speedo. If you go this way you'll need a ford pigtail that comes from the newer truck rear diff as a speed sensor. You'll also need a plug to plug the mechanical pickup.
For backup lights you can adapt your old harness... just cut off the old switch and attach two eyelets or boots to go over the sensor on the tranny. It doesn't matter which wire connects to which terminal from my experience.
For fluid you'll need GM synchromesh, they say 3Qts but it's actually about 2.5 to 2.75...
I think thats about it???
Let me know if there's any other q's...

Thanks,
Tom
 

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Love the car Tom! I used to have your signature picture as my wallpaper on my computer at work until I got pics of my 67 Fastback loaded up. I'd be interested to hear more about your rack and pinion once you get it dialed in. I have a manual Flaming River rack in mine and I've never been totally pleased with it, but always suspected that it was never completely dialed in either. Looking forward to more updates.
 

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Were there any interference problems with the tunnel forward of the gearshift and did the driveline angle change much? Also who did you get the TKO from?

Thanks,
Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll be taking the car into the alignment shop hopefully sometime this week to get it tweaked. I think the problem is only at low speed when turning sharply. I think it might still be rubbing the header?? It has excellent response and provides great feel. At 100mph there car feels like a newer car.... tracks straight and has plenty of road feel

As far as the tunnel and the shifter goes, there were no issues, I couldn't believe it. It fit just like it was made for it.
With regards to driveline angle its almost identical to what I had before. I had about 1 or 2 degrees of pinion angle (difference between the downward slope of the driveshaft and upward slope of the rear end) right now its about .5 degrees. There isn't really much angle. There are no vibrations or anything of the sort that would tell me this angle isn't sufficient. Also, just looking at the u joints, It would appear as though it's a better angle as they are just about level.

I got the TKO from darkhorse performance and used their crossmember...

I'll keep everyone updated...
I think my next problem is my carb is way too rich... It seems a little sluggish compared the carb I used to run. Problem with the old carb is its so big that it was washing down the cylinders not allowing the rings to seat properly. Kind of a weird problem...
 

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Tom, great looking car. If you're married & were able to sink all that cash & work into the Mustang, then you are my hero. To my real point, sounds like you took enough good stuff off the car to have a great yard sale.

Rick
 
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