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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a frustrating problem with my '87 mustang motor (I put it in a '72 Bronco). I also converted to mass air - probably a bad idea to do all at once. Anyway, I'm curious what the symptoms are of a bad BAP sensor (formerly the MAP sensor on this engine).

If you're interested, my engine symptoms are: the engine runs great for a little while and then cuts out for periods of about 3 seconds or so, or until I let the car idle again. Once this starts, it will make the car undriveable because it does it about half the time - although the engine never (or rarely) dies. It seems to do this mostly when the engine is warm.
I'm suspicious of the the BAP sensor because unplugging it doesn't seem to make much of a difference at all.
Can you help?

Thanks in advance,
-Eric

... Also I replaced the TPS, so I know that's not the problem.
 

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I doubt it is the BAP sensor, they have no where near the effect on operation that the MAP does. What I recomend is to check the computer for codes and to check fuel pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input.
I don't have the equipment to check for codes, so I'll try unhooking the mass air and hooking up the old computer (the '87) and see if I have better luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, switched back to speed density and the '87 computer is back in it. Now the symptoms are different. But for the most part it runs too rich and smokes quite a bit. It did cut out a little on me while getting on the freeway.
Do you think it could be the now called MAP sensor (I did remember to hook the vacuum line back up).
Also, I had to turn the idle adjustment screw way up in order for it to run with speed density.
Any ideas???
TurboCoupe50 you've been very helpful in the past and I know you're running this engine. What do you think?
 

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When I converted my '86 Stang to mass air I don't rember having to mess with the idle. So you must have a defective part or wiring problem.

You may be right about the MAP/BAP, because a bad MAP will cause an extreme rich condition. As will too much fuel pressure or a leaking diaphram in the regulator.

You really should scan it for codes, without scanning it you are shooting rats in the dark. A small blinking light scanner is only $20 - $30 at about any autoparts store.
 
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