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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a consstant drain on my battery of .13 amps. It's a 1967 390 fair lane. The battery draw takes place with all fuses disconnected, alternator and voltage regulator disconnected. I recently replaced the light switch so I removed it last night bit I still a .13 amp draw on the battery. I installed new gauges recently but they are routed thru the fuse box. I added a ground from the engine to frame to make sure I had a good ground . I'm at wits end!!! Any suggestions?
 

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Hey new buddy. You gotta start at the power feed wire that feeds the system.

This is the wire coming off the left post of the starter solenoid. Trace it through the engine bay. Into the cabin through the firewall, and Unplug each plug you find along the way testing the amperage draw each time.

If the draw stops when you unplug the firewall connector, plug it back in and start under the dash.

When you're done chasing everything, simply remove the glove box lamp and call it good :) ;)

Hope you find it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have looked for a glove box , trunk and hood lite but none to be found..I guess my question is now : Did the 1967 fairlane 500 come with any of the above? I'd love to find a wire to a glove box light that is drawing current.
Once I find my electrical problem and get it fixed I am going to start gathering parts to refresh the engine. The current engine has a Ford 3x2 set up. I'm looking to use the 428 crank ,pistons and heads . Not sure what cam but thinking 428 cj. This is a cruiser so not looking for tons of HP.
 

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The battery maybe leaking voltage through the case. Insulate the battery case from all metal contact and recheck.
 

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Internal leaks in the battery is a clever thought!

About the glove box light. In 67 the power wire to the glove box and the dome lights through the door trigger buttons was Green with a Black stripe I think...

Either way, Electrical drains are bothersome but fairly easy to eliminate, there aren't very many wires up in a 67 Gal.

Keep at it, but do the trick I told you, Unplug EVERY PLUG one at a time. Then get into individual wires. It could even be your ignition switch, Please unplug that also when checking your drain.


The EASIEST way to do this job alone is the following.

Get a Test light, Remove Positive terminal and insulate away from ground and battery, hook wire up to the battery + via a long wire that you can carry to every part of the car. Hook it up to the gator end of the test light, now ground the test light into whatever circuit you wish to test, when you unplug the offending part, the light will go out and you will have WON the fight! :D

Easier than running up front and checking for draw every 2 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I unplugged all plugs under the hood including the firewall plug and still no luck. Will isolate the battery as suggested and now move under the dash with test light as suggested but FE. Daytona 500 was priority tonight. Thank guys for the advise. Will post as progress is made. Take a look on you tube "SPD 9542" to view my car. I bought it back in jan by viewing these four videos. IT had been in stowage in Philly Pa since 2005 and bought by a police officer for unpaid stowage bill. He put 400 miles on it during the two years he owned it. IT has p/s, power disc brakes, c6, 9" rear w/2:75 axel . The ID tag was still in place on the rear end. It appears to be all original with the exception of the 3x2 carb set up that could have been a dealer installed option. The car was originally a 390 2v car. Amazing how straight the body is and how well the doors,hood and trunk match,open and close..
 

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I've had voltage regulators drain current... unplug the VR connection and check... Also, bump the starter and see if the drain goes away... I had a Cougar that used to drain unless I did that... who know why it fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
The drain is still there with all plugs under the hood unplugged included the battery,volt reg and fire wall plug unplugged. Am now under the dash.i have discovered my turn signals work wth the key not in the ignition. They work properly with the exception of the key does not have to be turned on to make them work. I also isolated the battery as suggested from the battery box only to have the same drain.
 
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