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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody got pics of their box install?
I read the article here, which was helpful, but I started out with two different style boxes.
I am wanting to mount mine over the right frame rail.
The Taylor aluminum box is so big that getting the battery out of it after an install will likely require taking out the whole box. Plus, the top of the frame here is so unlevel that I'm sure sinching down the battery will completely distort the bottom of the box. I suppose I could cut different size rubber grommets under the box to level it, but the previously mentioned issue makes me less inclined to work this issue.
I have a Summit plastic box, which is alot smaller, but the hold-down bracket that came with it actually doesn't even fit inside the box (???).
Any help would be appreciated.
Joe
 

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Gosh ... I wish I did have PICs of mine ... I might need to do that.

Mine is a "Plastic Box" which holds a "Marine Size Battery." The box has Strap Loops on the lid for about a 1.25" (maybe 1.50" ) strap.

I made a wood plate to mount on the trunk floor on the Passenger Side ... I made some strap loops to hold a strap to the plate. I made a leather strap to hold the battery box to the tray and used a "Snap Buckle" for ease of use, to keep the box (and battery) in place once latched.

To remove the batttery I have to unlatch the strap and remove the "Box Top" ... at that point the box will slide out from under the fender far enough to remove the battery. If I only want to disconnect power from the car I need only unlatch the strap and lift to "Box Top" to get to the connectors.

The Marine Battery I use is handy in that it has dual "Positive" and "Negative" terminals which can be used for Basic Car Function and also Stereo Power Amp applications.

The mounting system I described seems to anchor the battery in place with good results ... I also carry a full size Spare Tire and Wheel which I usually slide toward the Battery Box as added insurance that things there can't move far... this set-up is in "The Yellow Monster" shown below in SIG PIC

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: MonsterMach on 10/2/06 11:20am ]</font>
 

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I have the taylor box its great. Mine is in a fairlane . Im not sure what your putting it in I would think a mustang should be similar.The floor of the box mounts then the top and sides can slip in and out no problem. I have a pic not to clear tho pm me your email add and Ill sent it.
 

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what do you all think of mounting one of those tiny batts advertised here on the back seat? its on my to do list. but your opinions would help. do you have to enclose it for safety?
 

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I used the Taylor box in my 68 cougar. It's been a while since I installed it, but I don't remember it being too difficult. I have an optima red top in mine, and it will just barely fit in there when the box top is removed. This was the best photo I could find. If you want a better picture, I can get one for you tomorrow.





The inside looks like this

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Cain on 10/3/06 9:52am ]</font>
 

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I bought the Summit kit as well, and you're right, the bracket doesn't fit inside the box. I finally figured out (not sure if this is the way it was intended to be done) that if I cut a notch about 1" down each side of the box, where the ears of the hold down tray are, than I could put the battery in the box, put the tray on, and let the bolts go down the outside of the box. Here's a pic, in the bed of my Ranger:

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
On 2006-10-01 23:17, Motorhead wrote:
I bought the Summit kit as well, and you're right, the bracket doesn't fit inside the box. I finally figured out (not sure if this is the way it was intended to be done) that if I cut a notch about 1" down each side of the box, where the ears of the hold down tray are, than I could put the battery in the box, put the tray on, and let the bolts go down the outside of the box.
I gotta say, you oughta send that pic to Summit and tell them to quit peddling stuff that isn't engineered right!

I think you did the only possible fix for that kit!


Thanks for the input guys. Here's where I'm headed with this now.
The reason the Taylor box limited the battery removal was because I had it positioned pretty far forward to get it off the angled bumper reinforcement. To address this, and the non-level frame rail, I notched a piece of 3/4" plywood to straddle the reinforcement. This works out well for a flat surface that's far enough back that I can get the battery out of the box. I'm not through, but this will give some idea:





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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: joesgt281 on 10/6/06 1:58am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
On 2006-10-05 15:27, FoMoCo wrote:
Just an fyi dry cell batteries do not have to be in a box to be race legal.
Hey man, went to your website.....awesome Galaxie!

I have also heard what you said from others, but with not alot of certainty. It may be an issue that hasn't officially been addressed. Here's what NHRA says on their website:

Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
 

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Good morning gents

How do you hook up the 4-post cutoff switch

what wires get dissabled on the Alt? Do you just jump from the Bat side(ON side) of the switch to the 2nd post and then run to ALT?

Jim
 

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Is it 2 wires in and 2 out if so one side can be battery pos in and out and the other take the alt charge wire to the switch then to the battery. this will make it so if the cars running and you hit the switch it kills the car.
 

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I thought the rear battery box had to be vented to the outside of the trunk too. Did that ruling change? Mine is vented with fresh air coming in and the exhaust pulling fumes from the box (NACA vents). Remember that a battery being charged or discharged produces hydrogen gas and oxygen in just the right amouts to be explosive.
This rule may not affect the Gell Cell batteries as they are completely sealed and the expansion and contraction of gasses is handled with the flexible container that they are housed in.
Paul
 
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