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1965 Ford Custom. 302 . AOD. Work in progress
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Good morning Galaxie group. I am going to relocate the battery to the trunk and I am wondering if anyone out there has done the same and can answer a few questions.
1965 Galaxie 4-door sedan.
1.) what gauge wire and solid or stranded wire to run the 15+/- feet?
2.) any routing suggestions, kill switch and terminal connections. Any recommendations?
3.) has someone found a good kit out there and did you still use the same battery hold down tray and bolts?
I assume the solenoid stays under the hood so I don’t have to relocate all the wires.
Thank you in advance.
 

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I used welding cable. It will carry all the amps you can ever need with out heating up. Kill switch in the rear, same side as the battery/s. Run your cable all the inside of the frame rail. The hardest part is the alt power supply. You'll need to run that back to the battery side of the kill switch. Otherwise if you turn the battery switch off, the engine will run off the alt. Don't use a plastic one, they're worthless if you have an accident. I made my own but back then they didn't have them like now.
Allstar Performance Battery Boxes ALL76102
 

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1969 Galaxie XL - 390 FE
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For my battery location I used the American Auto Wire Kit with 1awg. wire. I routed my cables through the cabin which there are many opinions on. To get through the firewall I used Fastronix Premium High Current 3/8" Thru Panel Battery Terminal Connectors. I did not install a kill switch but wish I would have. For battery and hold downs I went with the Optima yellow top and the ICT Billet Billet Aluminum Battery Tray Racing Race Trunk Relocation Box Hold Down Mount. I cannot speak to the starter soleniod as I deleted mine which does come with some inherent risk.
 

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I used 20 feet of 2/0 guage copper wire on my 64 Galaxie fastback. I didn't move the solenoid, ran the wire on the frame rail, bolted an aftermarket battery tray to the drivers side of the trunk. I swaged and soldered large lugs on the ends of the cable. The battery is secured inside a plastic box with a cover that easily snaps off the battery box. Cables run through cutouts in the lid. Kill switch is hooked to the negative cable attached to structure near the left trunk hinge. I didn't run another wire for the alt power supply. Didn't think one was needed. I have been running this setup for over 14 years and have had no problems with it. If I remember correctly the 2/0 wire was a kind of spendy. Probably a bit more now. Plus it might be a bit of overkill.
Hope it all works out for you.
 

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I assume this is not to meet sanctioned-body racing rules? Even if it is, I would use a marine 300A circuit breaker by the battery to protect the car, and act as a manual disconnect. If doing a non-racing battery disconnect, I'd suggest a marine circuit breaker. They are inexpensive, can be hid under the battery tray, and are actually simpler to operate with a button/OFF and flip switch/ON.

Most battery relocations in cars like ours can use 300A versions (above starter surge amps), so the car is also protected if the battery cable shorts to the chassis. Two birds with one stone. ;) A fuse-style low-amp Type 1 auto-resetting circuit breaker on a clock bypass would keep that running. If forgetting the switch the breaker will cycle on/off, and if you also hook your courtesy lights into it, then it will also flicker the lights on and off to remind me you of your forgetfulness. 😆

 
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