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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My buddy blew up his 460 in his street/mud truck last weekend.

460
10.5 to 1
DOVE heads with some minor port work
Comp Cams 294S
Stealth Intake
850 Holley


His previous build was good enough to put him consistently in the top 5, but he wants more for next season. He's sick of the brand X guys always winning. His last engine was serving double duty as a street/mud race, and his competition is race only trucks. He's decided to take the truck off the street and make it mud race only for next season.


The only engine limitation in his class is that it has to be naturally aspirated. The pits are usually 200 feet long. I know he's been running a 4 speed, but he's going to swap over to an automatic for next season too. He is planning on a BBF stroker, but the rest is kind of up in the air. This will be going in a 78 F250.


Anybody care to offer up some suggestions for a race only 385 series stroker? From the sounds of things he wants to get pretty serious with this build.

Thanks



 

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same motor in my sig, 557, gotta run an iron head? Most big block classes mandate that, or atleast alot of the truck pull series do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are the rules.....

Mud Bog Competition Rules and Regulations

Modified Class
Tire size: Maximum 38”
ALL CLASSES MUST USE DOT APPROVED TIRES
ABSOLUTELY NO SCOOPER TIRES, TRACTOR, FARM IMPLEMENT, or PADDLE TIRES
NO CUT TIRES
NO NITROUS in Mod Class. Gasoline or Methanol Powered Vehicles Only.
MUST BE FULL BODIED VEHICLE
No Junk - Your truck must be clean and look good.
No obscene writing on the trucks.
NO BUGGIES and NO RAILS are allowed for Indoor Mud Races.
NO AFTERMARKET SUPERCHARGERS, AFTERMARKET TURBO CHARGERS, OR AFTERMARKET INJECTORS
No passengers allowed.
No second drivers for a truck. One truck=one driver.
Absolutely No one under 16 years old in the pit area!


Check your vehicle closely before racing. It is imperative that all participants take every precaution to ensure a safe event for both the Driver and Spectators. Your brakes must be in good working order, and will be tested at tech. Your throttle must work smoothly; your racer must be safe as possible.

1. It is the driver’s responsibility for their vehicles safe operation and safety equipment. We reserve the right to inspect any vehicle at anytime.

2. All questions, concerns and disputes regarding the application of rules will be the Competition Directors sole decision.

3. All vehicles must have operable brakes, throttle returns and an ignition shut off. Helmets and seat belts are required.

4. Foul or Abusive Language will NOT be tolerated. Nor will disrespect to other racers, race officials or spectators. Drivers are responsible for their own actions as well as the actions of their pit crews.

5. Roll cages and racing type seat belts are recommended. Open top and structurally altered (cutting or weakening from OEM standards) vehicles must have a minimum of a 6-point cage, preferably an 8-point. Unaltered cabs OK but recommend a 4-point cage.

6. All racing vehicles must have VISIBLE hookups on both front and rear to be used for pulling vehicle out of the pit. It is the driver's responsibility to inform the track official in the proper hook up of their vehicle.

7. Drivers are responsible for the safe operating condition of their personal vehicle. All loose items should be removed from cab and bed of vehicle as ANYTHING falling out during the race will result in your disqualification.

8. Race order will be determined by a number draw at the drives meeting. This number will be the race order per class (1st, 2nd, etc).

Drivers are expected to go to the staging area and to be ready to race when the class directly before them is racing. Track officials will instruct drivers to line up in run order (number drawn). Drivers will have a TWO (2) minute grace period to be on the line and ready to race. If unable to meet this time frame, they will be disqualified for that run.

9. All vehicles must come to a COMPLETE STOP after crossing the finish line. Failure to do so will result in disqualification for that run. A 5-mph speed limit in the pit and staging areas will be STRICTLY enforced.

Failure to comply with the above will result in immediate dismissal from the race, with all monies forfeited.

10. Runs will be timed and positions will be scored also with measurements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
On 2006-09-28 20:04, woody1 wrote:
same motor in my sig, 557, gotta run an iron head? Most big block classes mandate that, or atleast alot of the truck pull series do.
On 2006-09-29 03:01, 393Clevor wrote:

this is my buddies truck, I built a small block for it a few years ago but that was just not enough. The build he used was for 800hp..........

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-142828295410611483
Any chance either of you would offer up any details about these engines?
 

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I'd say stick with the same cam, intake, carb, and just get a good stroker kit and a pair of aluminum heads and that alone will pick up well over 100hp. Or add a cam with around 255-265 duration @ .050 and a Vic. Jr. or Tunnel Ram intake to the list and really let 'er rip!

_________________
'86 Bronco, 300hp 460, E4OD
'85 Ranger, 350hp 289, T5, [email protected] (1.96 60') on street tires


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Motorhead on 9/29/06 11:15pm ]</font>
 

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a mild build really, 557, solid cam .690 [email protected] Old discontinued A-429 heads ported, ported tunnel ram with 2 660 center squirters.
 

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check out www.460ford.com their are alot of truck pulling and mudracers on that forum.
 

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On 2006-09-29 09:47, woody1 wrote:
a mild build really, 557, solid cam .690 [email protected] Old discontinued A-429 heads ported, ported tunnel ram with 2 660 center squirters.
On what planet is a 557 inch, solid nearly 700 lift, tunnel ram, ported aluminum race headed big block considered a 'mild build'??? I'm guessing there was some sarcasm in there?
 

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On 2006-09-29 12:37, Motorhead wrote:
On 2006-09-29 09:47, woody1 wrote:
a mild build really, 557, solid cam .690 [email protected] Old discontinued A-429 heads ported, ported tunnel ram with 2 660 center squirters.
On what planet is a 557 inch, solid nearly 700 lift, tunnel ram, ported aluminum race headed big block considered a 'mild build'??? I'm guessing there was some sarcasm in there?
well as far as big blocks go, the parts used are bottom of the barrel really. It's going in a street car
 

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Big cubes are the answer. Really. The 4.5" stroke 557 kits we sell cost no more than do the 4.3" stroke 520 kits. The heads will dictate the power band - but the cubes will dictate the torque. And you want TORQUE to get those tires rolling.

The price for rotators is usually at or below 2Gs - - nearly the same as a race quality rebuild once you add up pistons, rods, rings, & bearings. There is simply no reason not to go AT LEAST 520 inches on these. PM me for detailed quotes - - pricing is not really appropriate for the Q&A forum.

Barry R.
Survival Motorsports
 
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