Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,745 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have never stripped the splines out on my C4s but I thought that I should do something about this before it happens. I see on here than it has happened to several guys.

I tried this idea of putting a steel bushing around the forward spline. I was not crazy about welding or brazing the kidney holes. Since I am a machininst by trade, it is much easier for me to do machining than welding.

How do you think this will work out? I also got a different kind of thrust bearing than most of you are running. It happens to be the same bearing that Jim at JPT uses in his roller setups.







_________________
Grabber Green '70 Mach I 351C 4V 12.32 at 111mph
Robin Egg Blue '79 Fairmont 408C 4V 10.50 at 127mph

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: clevelandstyle on 7/11/06 8:28am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: clevelandstyle on 7/11/06 8:29am ]</font>
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,330 Posts
I wondered about the welding if it affected the strength of the drum with the heat but so far my mig welded ones have been fine. I thought maybe machine out the kidney holes and press in an insert rather than cutting the outside. I would still like to find out how the c6 input shaft works.
I cant see your pics at work will look when i get home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
659 Posts
Why did they put those kidney holes in there to begin with?

As for your fix Cleveland is that ring strong enough ya think?
My drum cracked at each kidney hole.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,745 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'm quite sure it's strong enough. It is made from A2 tool steel. The diameter is as big as the piston will allow. I can't foresee any failures. If anyone else can tell me why it would fail, I'm all ears.

The trans is together now. I will be running it next week if all go right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
I'm sure it will help but wonder if the cavity (kidney hole/s) between the spline and the ring would still create a weak point....meaning the ring would support the O/D but would the void still be a weak point between it and the spline?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Seems like a great idea to me, like a girdle to keep the cast iron (splines) from pushing away from the shaft. I'm sure my JPT c-4 has that type of bearing already, was wondering if you had to do any more machining to the drum or if all the machining was done on the ring only? If it would just press on mine, I would be interested in one!

Roger
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,330 Posts
Aren't the kidney holes machined off? The ring is quite thick then to replace what is machined off and is pressed on?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
On 2006-07-25 14:06, gregaust wrote:
Aren't the kidney holes machined off? The ring is quite thick then to replace what is machined off and is pressed on?
Ok, I see what he's done now....yes, should be good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,745 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, the kidney holes are machined away. The steel piece is thick.

Roger, I did machine a step for the bearing to set so it stays centered(first pic) . I also needed to adjust for the added roller bearing thickness verse the thrust washer. It was really straight forward. Any machinist could do it.

JPT does use these bearings in his C4s. Here is a pic of a JPT built C4 with the bearing mod. It has no beefed kidneys. The trans was in an 8 second dragster.

_________________
Grabber Green '70 Mach I 351C 4V 12.32 at 111mph
Robin Egg Blue '79 Fairmont 408C 4V 10.50 at 127mph

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: clevelandstyle on 7/26/06 10:28am ]</font>
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,330 Posts
Just a question on that bearing. What size is the bearing? and does the planet and the outer ring gear hub run on the bearing or just thering gear? I hope that makes sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
I know what your getting at Greg, with ours I took 5 or 10 thou off the front end of the planet so it couldn't contact the forward drum's bearing thrust washer...so the planet's "endplay" is controlled by the rollers front and rear of it. Though are bearing is slightly different to clevelandstyle's, the principle is identical with a machined lip on the forward drum to locate the bearings thrust washer. Our bearing came out of a BW35, don't remember exactly where.... as I could not obtain a semi captured thrust washer off the shelf. I would be interested to know the what the bearing is as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,745 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The "land" of the bearing is about in the middle between the 2 portions of the planets. I'll have to measure it to get you dimensions. I believe it is from a TH400 trans. It's an AC Delco part number and I get it from the GM parts counter along with the common TH350 bearings. I'll have to get back to you on it. All my numbers are in the shop.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,330 Posts
Thanks ,much appreciated. Chris you're onto me.I was thinking of just not machining where the roller on the front of the planet inside the ring gears sit not quite as deep where i normally have it sitting flush on that #3
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,745 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I've got the part number for the bearing.

It's an AC Delco#8623921
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,745 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Based on the TH400s I've been in(it's been a while), I think it is on the planetary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
Thanks C/Style, looks like a much nicer bearing than the one I used.

Greg, yes I guess you could do it that way also. I was trying to keep things pretty much in their stock locations at the time...was trying to avoid falling into any "traps".
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top