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Discussion Starter #1
I am trying to bench bleed a rebuilt MC, and the instructions say to screw the bleeding plug into the ports (dual MC for 67 Galaxie, fill the reservoirs 1/2 full, using blunt tool move the piston in and slowly release, repeat until no more bubbles are seen, wait 25 seconds between plunges.

So I have been doing this and quickly the front reservoir stopped showing bubbles and showed clear fluid movement. However, the rear reservoir is still showing bubbles, although they are getting smaller. I use short stroke and I get as many as 20 bubbles, rest for 5 minutes, do again get another 20 bubbles. I have been doing this for 2 hours and I am still getting bubbles.

Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think I will do number 2, I am tired of pumping.
 

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I think I will do number 2, I am tired of pumping.
:eek:

This is no time to take a crap break!

...oh... You meant perform #2 suggested procedure? Just make sure the rear of the MC is at least level or pointing upwards slightly after install.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What do you want me to do, put jack stands under the rear so the MC will slope forward?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I thought I was joking, but I put a level on the MC and the nose is about 1/4" higher than the rear. I guess I could let air out of the front tires if I didn't want to jack up the rear.
 

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Tighten the rear line a little more. And Angle the master downward. for a couple pumps then upward to alleviate any pockets.
Not level is Fine Don.

The AIR WILL evacuate. Simply follow my bleeding procedures and all will be well.
Which of your suggested bleeding procedures should he follow? I must admit, I am a little confused here also... :confused:
 

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The MC has to be bled first independently of the brake system whether performed on or off the car. If you do not, you will only be introducing air into the hydraulic system

Master cylinder bench bleeding procedure
 

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Discussion Starter #13
All my help is too busy to assist in bleeding the line right now, so unless I go buy one of those bleeding pumps I am on hold until I get help. I put the MC on the booster, but it never felt hard to me while I was pumping it.
 

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With MC installed, open the RR and RF bleeder and let gravity do the work. When fluid comes through clear, close the bleeder. Open the LR and LF bleeder. When fluid clears, close. Without help you're 90% or better bled. When you get help, confirm by bleeding all four corners.
 

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The MC has to be bled first independently of the brake system whether performed on or off the car. If you do not, you will only be introducing air into the hydraulic system

Master cylinder bench bleeding procedure

Not to add to Dan's poke at you, but AIR enters the System the SECOND you REMOVE the brake Master Cylinder.

THAT is why you bleed them in the first place. The air is there when the system is compromised...

Bench Bleeding simply SAVED about 2 pints of otherwise wasted fluid...
 

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Not to add to Dan's poke at you, but AIR enters the System the SECOND you REMOVE the brake Master Cylinder.

THAT is why you bleed them in the first place. The air is there when the system is compromised...

Bench Bleeding simply SAVED about 2 pints of otherwise wasted fluid...
First, I have no idea who Dan is (nor do I care) and his feeble attempt to make humor regarding a vehicle repair.

Did you bother at all to read the TECH PAPER I referenced (obviously not)? You might do better to keep abreast of the industry and proper repair procedures rather than posting well out of date repair procedures and trying to be popular with the residents here.

What in the world does air entering the system once the MC is removed from the circuit(s) have to do with the current subject of proper MC bleeding.... :confused:
 

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Damn Kul, I'm not doing this for popularity.

I simply state the facts. Bench bleeding ONLY serves TWO purposes.

1: To ensure that the master WILL in fact hold a firm pedal prior to installation.

2: To prevent air from entering an ALREADY compromised Hydraulic system and wasting a few pints of brake fluid in the process of Bleeding.


Now Dagnabbit, you tell me where those words aren't true and or how that's well out of date. Copy and past if you have to. grumble grumble....

Original Poster Don:

1: Put the master on the car and fill it.

2: OPEN the far rear bleeder.

3: Press pedal to floor and hold there.

4: Close Bleeder BEFORE moving pedal.

5: Repeat until no more air sputters from bleeder.

6: Follow procedure on Closer rear wheel, then Farthest Front, then closest front wheel.

7: You are done when you have a clear stream of bubble free brake fluid come from the bleeders and a firm brake pedal.

That's all you gotta do after bench bleeding your master.

Will your brake system bleed properly with the master cylinder on the car? HELL YES IT WILL. But it takes about 20 TIMES longer and you loose a LOT of fluid in the process unless you are using the vacuum system and reclaiming all the fluid that comes out of the bleeder, but then you still have a bit of loss while working the master plunger to rid the piston springs and cups of trapped.

Bleeding the Master ONLY removes trapped air from assembly. AT the manufacturer they DO NOT TEST the master cylinder. IF they DID then the master would come with brake fluid in it. They do not!

Bench bleeding like i said ONLY saves a schitt ton of fluid and proves the master to be good before putting it on the car. That is all it does.

So Kultulz, I'm NOT going after your logic nor your "proper procedures" I am simply showing the way I do it, and how damn EASY it is and that it's worked EVERY TIME (which counts into the high HUNDREDS) that I've done it.

If my explanation lacks any scientific Fact please let me know. I do apologize if any of my replies were less than clear to the OP and to any other readers.
 

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First, I have no idea who Dan is (nor do I care) and his feeble attempt to make humor regarding a vehicle repair.

Did you bother at all to read the TECH PAPER I referenced (obviously not)? You might do better to keep abreast of the industry and proper repair procedures rather than posting well out of date repair procedures and trying to be popular with the residents here.

What in the world does air entering the system once the MC is removed from the circuit(s) have to do with the current subject of proper MC bleeding.... :confused:
klutz , what you need is hands on .
links to other's knowledgev , a first grade girl can accomplishthat.
klutz , you should be able to understand your post . your just not able
 

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This is what Dan said to your threads... You ignore him but he made a couple statements that are accurate and then a couple things that even I find a bit needy in the wording area..

KULTULZ*** First, I have no idea who Dan is (nor do I care) and his feeble attempt to make humor regarding a vehicle repair.

Did you bother at all to read the TECH PAPER I referenced (obviously not)? You might do better to keep abreast of the industry and proper repair procedures rather than posting well out of date repair procedures and trying to be popular with the residents here.

What in the world does air entering the system once the MC is removed from the circuit(s) have to do with the current subject of proper MC bleeding.... :confused:
DANH***** klutz , what you need is hands on .
links to others knowledge , a first grade girl can accomplish that.
klutz , you should be able to understand your post . your just not able

see klutz , where you said "air"

you have a link or cut and paste to "air" ? you do ! pm it to yourself
 
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