[steveo3318]

Ok guys I have a freshly rebuilt 390 thats stout to say the least but I want her to hit pretty hard. Can anyone give me the best cam specs for a car that will be mostly eased around in and for looks and sound. But I do want it to go when I hit the petal. I would like to stay the hyd. lifters route if possible.

Just looking for a ground shaker with good HP gains. Also an intake to go with my 600 cfm eldelbrock.

The intake thats on it is a " S 9425-A" what ever that means lol

I am going to call the builder tomorrow in hopes of getting more info on the bore and stroke and build.

 

[Rcode427]

I can tomorrow give you specs on the cam box in my street 427. It is 649 I beleive. Alittle rough . If you wana wake it up place you a tunnelwedge on top. Some may disagree but I think it is the best intake for a fe.
I sold a single 4 but always used a 2/4 set-up. You can get a repop from dove . They come accross on ebay for around 8 to 900 bucks but worth it , so I think.

 

[Rcode427]

The S is a standard 390 intake and heavy. The S intake came on 390s from the factory. I am assuming it is being the S is there. Add you a tunnelwedge.

 

[steveo3318]

I can tomorrow give you specs on the cam box in my street 427. It is 649 I beleive. Alittle rough . If you wana wake it up place you a tunnelwedge on top. Some may disagree but I think it is the best intake for a fe.
I sold a single 4 but always used a 2/4 set-up. You can get a repop from dove . They come accross on ebay for around 8 to 900 bucks but worth it , so I think.

WOW That may be a little more than what I need lol, Let me rephrase this. Whats the best cam, valves, lifters, and intake I can get for around a 1000 to 1200 bucks and still be streetable. Your advice is duely noted though and I still want to know spec. also sound clips are worth a thousand words.

Also guys what size stall with a pretty well built C6. with whatever cam is advised

 

[Rcode427]

I can take a vid but never added one to here. I guess I can put it on another site , copy and paste it here. Never done it but will try. Have to be a few days for I am working my buns off . Got another 427 with a 588 I think. My daughter has the vid of it running in a engine stand. I think she is having a hard time uploading it to another site so I can retreive it. All engines sounds good with streight headers in a stand but maybe you can get an idea. I will ask her tomorrow as well get the cam box and post it for ya in that engine. I think man I got it from called it a spider intake.

 

[Rcode427]

WOW That may be a little more than what I need lol, Let me rephrase this. Whats the best cam, valves, lifters, and intake I can get for around a 1000 to 1200 bucks and still be streetable. Your advice is duely noted though and I still want to know spec. also sound clips are worth a thousand words.

Also guys what size stall with a pretty well built C6. with whatever cam is advised

A streetable stall I liked was just 2600, It started locking in around 23 to 2400. Know that the higher you go the higher you have to reb the engine to get it to move and pretty soon you will not like a larger stall.

 

[puttster]

If there was one cam that gives maximum power at both low and high rpms, everyone would use it!

On the strip, drivers use a big cam because they spend most of the ride at high rpms. To get past the problem on the low end they might use a 4.11 rear and a 3000 rpm torque converter, so basically they start the race at 3000 rpm. On the street where power from idle to 4000 rpm is desired, and enough vacuum for power brakes, a "mild" cam is much more fun to drive.

Final choice should be based on where you will be driving, size of engine, carb and exhaust set up, heads and compression ratio, transmission, tires and rear end. Comp cams will sell you a cam with lifters and matching springs

Based on what I have read, the Edelbrock RPM would be a good intake for you.

 

[steveo3318]

The car will NOT be a race car by any means. I just want it to hit hard at the red lights and catch second with the C6. maybe even third if I stay in it that long. This will be a backwards build. as I am looking for more sound and low end power than I am strait power.

The car is more of a little show car that NEEDS to sound mean. Headers will come later. carb for now is a 600 cfm edelbrock. Thanks for the info so far guys, keep them coming.

 

[steveo3318]

Also is there a such thing as full length aftermarket headers that will fit this car?? seen a set of hookers at summit but just dont trust that discription. If not whats a good budget build header. I would rather have long tubes!!!

 

[PSIG]

If it's all show and no go, put a big Comp Cams Thumpr in it. Go as big as you want, but realize with a matching converter, unless your gearing is also low, you may never get out of stall around town and may overheat your tranny. Also note that folks knowledgeable in performance can detect fake muscle a mile away. Be ready for some good razzing.

David

 

[steveo3318]

LOL thanks for that info. I still want it to pull good so its not all show. I just want some good hit in it.

SO JUST TALKED TO THE ORIGINAL BUILDER OF THE ENGINE. Dynotech race engines

heres what I know.
390 bored 60 over ouch!!!
10.1 compression pistons
Hydrolic lifters
custom ground cam 205 214 @ 50, and 493 and 510. I do not understand these numbers please translate them.
springs are aftermarket and 120lbs at seats?????

he basically said it was a stock build that he built twice because the flat tappets wore out a cam lobe, and he had to replace the cam and lifters and bearings. he also said to run a comp cams additive in it that has zink. That it will keep the cam lobes from wearing. Which I did not know about nore did I use on the last oil change.

I told him I had a slight knock on the passenger side after she gets warm but it goes away under any throttle. he said to check the cam lobes and or replace it and to get the additive.

Dude has me scared. Should I pull the whole thing down lol. engine has less than 3000 miles on it and runs perfect.

 

[JimNolan]

Steveo3318,
After building my engines for street, getting some things right, some things wrong I've got this advice for you.
1. Be honest with yourself about how you are going to drive it and build an engine that suits that type of driving. You ain't going through the quarter mile in a 10 second car that gets 20 mpg using 87 octane gas.
2. The exhaust system on my 57 with a stock 390 and stock heads, cam, intake and exhaust manifolds sounds better than my 63 with long duration high overlap cam, higher compression, aluminum intake, bigger valves and full length headers and 2 1/2' exhaust with crossover. So if you want it to sound mean, you can do it without the lope of a high overlap cam and big exhaust system.
3. Comp cams peddles cams for low compression engines. Most of the big Fords used large LSA cams to deliver performance with higher compression engines. Seek advice from more Cam Manufactors than Comp Cams.
4. Understand that the advice you get online comes from varied back grounds. One guy can tell you to a thousands what his car will do through the quarter mile if he inflates his rear tires one more PSI. Others may use thier cars for converstation pieces and not be able to honestly tell you if it would make it through the quarter mile. RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH.
5. If you're going to drive it more on the street at lower rpm's, don't get a stall converter that locks up at 3000 rpm. Stay about 200 rpm lower than your cruise rpm.
6. Learn to use a calculator, find out what DCR means before you buy a cam or decide what compression and horsepower you want. Figure out where you want your cruise rpm and don't buy a cam that has a high peak torque rpm if you don't want to be shifting at 6500 rpm to make horsepower.
7. Don't build a 450 horsepower engine and expect to use a stock cooling system. The more BTU's you make, the more cooling capacity you need. Think before you build.
These are things I learned from not thinking. Jim

 

[steveo3318]

Ok so I will be cruising anywhere from 2000 rpms to 2800 rpms. I am not want this lead sled to pull the tires. But i do want to feel my work when I put the cam in. I don't want to start it up and say well damn. that was a waste of money. Thats why I am asking you guys.

So whats the best cam for a smaller stall if any at all. and cruising around town catching second every blue moon. Forget the radical sound. But some lope is important to me.

 

[JimNolan]

Steveo3318,
If you're running 10.1 compression I'd use something like the 268H Comp Cam. I've got one I'm putting in my car this winter. The torque would be in the right place and the peak horsepower would be coming in around 4500 rpm. With headers and a good dual plane intake you'd see about 350 horsepower/460 ft lbs torque @3500 rpm without spending too much improving your cooling system.
If you were to run an 1800-2000 rpm stall converter that'd do nicely for cruising without creating too much heat at slow speeds in the C6. Coupled to a 3.0 rear gear and 27" tires that would give you a decent little car you could be proud of and you could actually drive somewhere too.
Bear in mind you're looking at about 8.2 DCR so 89 or 91 octane would be a must. Jim PS This is what I'd put in a car with stock heads and intended to drive with a C6 transmission.

 

[steveo3318]

Thats the kind of info I am looking for, thanks a ton. doing research now

 

[PSIG]

Nice, Jim.
:tup:
David

 

[steveo3318]

Well yall can halt on the CAM upgrade. I now have a knock. sorry for all the new threads but check the other thread if interested. ****

 

[Rcode427]

Where you live at Steve?

 

[steveo3318]

South Mississippi. Near hattiesburg! Why whats up boss man

Where you live at Steve?

 

[Rcode427]

Not much. Thats not too far. If intrested you pull that motor , gather some bucks and I will allow you some on that motor for a brand new rebuilt but you gota come get it.