Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, Phil here....

What is a good camshaft i can buy for economy/power

I know there is several different types of camshafts....

(NO COMP CAM SUGGESTIONS).....

I here comp cam is the most crappy cam you can buy....

My initial planning right now is to buy a scrap 400 and beef it up or put in some work on my current 400.

Here is my idea layouts:

1) I want to Get the heads machined, ported, and all that good ol stuff by a professional machine shop.

2) I want a Economy/semi aggressive cam.

3) Modify the heads a slight bit and beef it up with some thicker push rods.

4) add new hydrologic lifters to go with my cam... (ITS A MUST)

5) Crown it off with a 650 CFM edlebrock carb and intake...

6) lift my ranchero about 2-4inches so i can get more tire clearance for better tires and stagger my rims with spacers for the back... Only a few inches. I am not sure if i want to go with a Genuine lifted mud bog look or just pick it up a bit for better tires.

Here is a high sample of what i am thinking about between the two

low height
CarsOnline.com: Ford Ranchero For Sale

High height

Redirect Notice
This will become my dream truck ;) I am hopeful that i will have this done by time i finish my schooling in auto mechanics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
688 Posts
Hi, Phil here....

What is a good camshaft i can buy for economy/power

I know there is several different types of camshafts....

(NO COMP CAM SUGGESTIONS).....

I here comp cam is the most crappy cam you can buy.....
Sorry You "here" wrong........every one of the 15 or so I have used have been great.

4) add new hydrologic lifters to go with my cam... (ITS A MUST)

This will become my dream truck ;) I am hopeful that i will have this done by time i finish my schooling in auto mechanics.
Never heard of Hydrologic lifter what is that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Sorry You "here" wrong........every one of the 15 or so I have used have been great.



Never heard of Hydrologic lifter what is that?
Please keep you opinions and thoughts to your self. I am not afraid to bring moderators in this...

I rather accept others help only thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,977 Posts
Please keep you opinions and thoughts to your self. I am not afraid to bring moderators in this...

I rather accept others help only thank you.
Any free advice given is worth exactly what you paid for it, whether right or wrong. That is the truth.

So who else wants to help this thin skinned, 11 year old acting internet thug? Anyone?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Phil,
Sounds like you have already formed some strong opinions about camshafts and lifters. If that's the case, nobody here is going to be much help to you. Here's some generic advice about cams in our old flat-tappet engines: Back in the 1980's, oil manufacturers were forced to reduce the amount of ZDDP (zinc Phosphate) additives in their oils because it was clogging up catalitic converters. This was not a problem for newer engines equipped with roller camshafts and lifters. It was, however, hell on older engines when breaking in new flat-tappet cams. (Could this be the reason someone convinced you Comp Cams were no good?) Virtually all of the aftermarket cam manufacturers responded to this problem by marketing ZDDP additives to go with their cams. Regardless of what cam you pick, use one of these products and make sure you follow standard camshaft break-in procedures. (i.e. upon start-up immediately bring the engine up to 2000+ rpm for several minutes.) If you weren't so dead set against Comp Cams, I'd recommend their cam selector software called Camquest which can be downloaded for free. If you want both power and economy out of one cam, you are going to be hard to satisfy. Some folks go with a 204/214 degree cam which is basically an RV grind. As for lifters, none of us have ever heard of the term hydologic. It sounds like a lifter that pumps up at higher rpms giving you sort of a variable valve timing effect which can offer a smoother idle with a hot cam. There is a product called the Rhoades lifter that is purported to achieve this effect. It's been around a number of years and has yet to receive much love in the marketplace. I suspect that may be because it doesn't work as well as the manufacturer says it does.
Anyway, good luck on your project.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Phil,
Sounds like you have already formed some strong opinions about camshafts and lifters. If that's the case, nobody here is going to be much help to you. Here's some generic advice about cams in our old flat-tappet engines: Back in the 1980's, oil manufacturers were forced to reduce the amount of ZDDP (zinc Phosphate) additives in their oils because it was clogging up catalitic converters. This was not a problem for newer engines equipped with roller camshafts and lifters. It was, however, hell on older engines when breaking in new flat-tappet cams. (Could this be the reason someone convinced you Comp Cams were no good?) Virtually all of the aftermarket cam manufacturers responded to this problem by marketing ZDDP additives to go with their cams. Regardless of what cam you pick, use one of these products and make sure you follow standard camshaft break-in procedures. (i.e. upon start-up immediately bring the engine up to 2000+ rpm for several minutes.) If you weren't so dead set against Comp Cams, I'd recommend their cam selector software called Camquest which can be downloaded for free. If you want both power and economy out of one cam, you are going to be hard to satisfy. Some folks go with a 204/214 degree cam which is basically an RV grind. As for lifters, none of us have ever heard of the term hydologic. It sounds like a lifter that pumps up at higher rpms giving you sort of a variable valve timing effect which can offer a smoother idle with a hot cam. There is a product called the Rhoades lifter that is purported to achieve this effect. It's been around a number of years and has yet to receive much love in the marketplace. I suspect that may be because it doesn't work as well as the manufacturer says it does.
Anyway, good luck on your project.

Well i can take your word for it... and you provided good information I was reading about that not to long ago.... It's not that comp cams are bad all together by themselves, I am just a person who will avoid anything or anyone who can do my engine harm.... I do my research.... I heard that modern motor oils do not have zinc which is why special formulated oil is crucial to the break in period... I believe recalling RPM over 3k is bad for cam break in 2000rpm to 2500 is the basis to properly break it in. Now i am just blabbering on about nothing.... anyway I just keep a check on complaints on each company before buying a part.


If i recall there is a old song that said "what you see is what you get."

Which is why i am so quick to judge or judge based on experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Not sure if your kidding or not..I certainly was....I think he mean't to say "hydraulic"..
yea i typo a lot ... ehh T_Ti can't find my wheel lock key so i can put in these coil spring spacers FUDGE! i might have to cobble up something out of metal that will fit.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,216 Posts
This might be worth a read.
Ford 351M-400 Edelbrock Cam Swap - FordMuscle

I've run Edelbrock and Comp cam's for years with no problems. I have had drag buddies that had trouble with Lunati cams flattening lobes. Maybe they solved that problem because it was a few years back and it may have been from lifters or incorrect break in procedures and not the cams.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
This might be worth a read.
Ford 351M-400 Edelbrock Cam Swap - FordMuscle

I've run Edelbrock and Comp cam's for years with no problems. I have had drag buddies that had trouble with Lunati cams flattening lobes. Maybe they solved that problem because it was a few years back and it may have been from lifters or incorrect break in procedures and not the cams.
ok which one do you like most edel or comp? I would like edel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
This might be worth a read.
Ford 351M-400 Edelbrock Cam Swap - FordMuscle

I've run Edelbrock and Comp cam's for years with no problems. I have had drag buddies that had trouble with Lunati cams flattening lobes. Maybe they solved that problem because it was a few years back and it may have been from lifters or incorrect break in procedures and not the cams.
I love that information I would like to buy the cam they displayed.... only thing is i could not view second page..... So what i will do is go research it on youtube for specifics. :p thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
241 Posts
Ive used several comp cams with no problems, several Summit racing regrind cams with no problems, a couple crane cams and i thinks thats about it...Oh and one Howards Cam's, Cam. None have failed. I like Comp for their selection. If you want to save some money, get a summit cam and lifter set. I have used at least(best i can remember) two of them with out any issues. Their smallest option for your engine should work very well for the purposes you listed. I have an edelbrock intake for your engine up for sale also. Its the performer 400. It could use a good bead blasting(age) but, it is totally solid otherwise. Wether your interested in mine or not, i believe(opinion and research) the edelbrock performer 400 intake is the best dual plane you can get for that engine. If you want to spend a little more for your cam and lifter set, get the edelbrock cam that matches the intake, the performer series. Dont buy their timing set though, its over priced. A very nice double roller can be had from summit racing. Of course youll need new valve springs to do it right when you do your cam. FYI on the tires- you can fit a 12 in wide tire out back and close to 30 inches tall with the proper wheel back spacing. Personally i prefer to see ranchero in the hot rod fashon because theyre on a Car chassis, but thats just me. Its not REALLY a truck, just a car with a really big open trunk, Just my .02

As far as the heads go, a good rebuild is a good start. When your porting gets done, or if you do it your self, dont focus on the ports, they are big enough. Its the are directly under the valve that leads to the ports where your power is hiding. Research head porting a bit and youll see what i mean.

You couldnt see the second page of that article because it requires a subscription, if you want to read it, PM me about those.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top