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I saw that you mentioned push rods, now you're not really gonna need "larger" push rods unless you're getting really carried away with beefing up the engine but a nice set of hardened push rods will do wonders! You'll most likely be looking at a set of 9.500" long by 5/16" diameter rods as that is what I used in my own 400 due to an oversight on my part when I first put the engine together, lol. Another god way to get a little extra power out of your motor is in your head selection, the Cleveland 2v heads that were made in 75 and later have a water jacket running through the roof of the exhaust ports which causes a flow restriction but if you can find a set of heads from 74 or earlier you won't have that problem.

As for cam selection, Fords generally like a little more cam on the exhaust side than the intake. Something with about 0.010 more lift and about 10* more duration on the exhaust side than what's on the intake side will allow your motor to run better.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Ive used several comp cams with no problems, several Summit racing regrind cams with no problems, a couple crane cams and i thinks thats about it...Oh and one Howards Cam's, Cam. None have failed. I like Comp for their selection. If you want to save some money, get a summit cam and lifter set. I have used at least(best i can remember) two of them with out any issues. Their smallest option for your engine should work very well for the purposes you listed. I have an edelbrock intake for your engine up for sale also. Its the performer 400. It could use a good bead blasting(age) but, it is totally solid otherwise. Wether your interested in mine or not, i believe(opinion and research) the edelbrock performer 400 intake is the best dual plane you can get for that engine. If you want to spend a little more for your cam and lifter set, get the edelbrock cam that matches the intake, the performer series. Dont buy their timing set though, its over priced. A very nice double roller can be had from summit racing. Of course youll need new valve springs to do it right when you do your cam. FYI on the tires- you can fit a 12 in wide tire out back and close to 30 inches tall with the proper wheel back spacing. Personally i prefer to see ranchero in the hot rod fashon because theyre on a Car chassis, but thats just me. Its not REALLY a truck, just a car with a really big open trunk, Just my .02

As far as the heads go, a good rebuild is a good start. When your porting gets done, or if you do it your self, dont focus on the ports, they are big enough. Its the are directly under the valve that leads to the ports where your power is hiding. Research head porting a bit and youll see what i mean.

You couldnt see the second page of that article because it requires a subscription, if you want to read it, PM me about those.

I am going to print this out right now i am having a bad vertigo spell and i got my gf trying to talk to me on the phone and her friend is yapping.... its hard for me to focus... T_T FML
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ive used several comp cams with no problems, several Summit racing regrind cams with no problems, a couple crane cams and i thinks thats about it...Oh and one Howards Cam's, Cam. None have failed. I like Comp for their selection. If you want to save some money, get a summit cam and lifter set. I have used at least(best i can remember) two of them with out any issues. Their smallest option for your engine should work very well for the purposes you listed. I have an edelbrock intake for your engine up for sale also. Its the performer 400. It could use a good bead blasting(age) but, it is totally solid otherwise. Wether your interested in mine or not, i believe(opinion and research) the edelbrock performer 400 intake is the best dual plane you can get for that engine. If you want to spend a little more for your cam and lifter set, get the edelbrock cam that matches the intake, the performer series. Dont buy their timing set though, its over priced. A very nice double roller can be had from summit racing. Of course youll need new valve springs to do it right when you do your cam. FYI on the tires- you can fit a 12 in wide tire out back and close to 30 inches tall with the proper wheel back spacing. Personally i prefer to see ranchero in the hot rod fashon because theyre on a Car chassis, but thats just me. Its not REALLY a truck, just a car with a really big open trunk, Just my .02

As far as the heads go, a good rebuild is a good start. When your porting gets done, or if you do it your self, dont focus on the ports, they are big enough. Its the are directly under the valve that leads to the ports where your power is hiding. Research head porting a bit and youll see what i mean.

You couldn't see the second page of that article because it requires a subscription, if you want to read it, PM me about those.
I just got done with the headache sisters.... I found this quite to be very helpful.... If you could send me the after cam change would be helpful.

Before and after helps me dictate rather it is worth a shot... I gotta start some where.... i figure a cam is the way to go first then work my way up... But of course the cam, lifters, push rods, and valves work in unison with each other to provide superior lubrication and power. I would like to save up to buy a complete set with everything in it such as timing chain, lifter's and cam. As for the pistons i well have to pull off the oil pan sometime in the future and do some work in the case. I have a bit of a little light sound that could be a rod bearing starting to wear down.... I would love to get to that asap then take a look at the top of the pistons and see what crud i find.
 

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Im not able to send you the article currently, but the conclusion was a full second improvement in 0-60 time.But, they also already had an intake and carb in place, and you also already have a 400, so your improvment(if your engine is in reasonably good condition) would likely be more substantial. That is if you were to do the cam kit, intake, carb and headers all at once, it could be a substantial difference, again, if your engine is in decent condition...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Im not able to send you the article currently, but the conclusion was a full second improvement in 0-60 time.But, they also already had an intake and carb in place, and you also already have a 400, so your improvment(if your engine is in reasonably good condition) would likely be more substantial. That is if you were to do the cam kit, intake, carb and headers all at once, it could be a substantial difference, again, if your engine is in decent condition...
The engine seems to be in well condition the only problem's i had with it was lifter stick but i think that was due to 10w 40 weight usage...

I have no seal leakage and the engine is very clean on the outside ... I flushed my engine recently so i know there is a big difference when i used the bardahl by writing my before problems compared to my after...

I think i only had sludge problems.


I think my timing is a bit retarded though its a bit hard to start probably cause its caurbuarated.... I know some people that can just turn there key and BLOOM! its already running...

I think i need a good valve train build up. She can still burn some paint....

I got into a little bit of wars locally with a couple of Honda's and what not as well for wars with a couple of focus drivers. You already know who won that war :) most of the time im off the line quick some times i am off the line slowly but still end up winning do to the low in torque. I am beefing the whole upper end mainly... IF its not broken or running like crap then its fine...

Hey what bigger tire size by what maker do you recommend?

I am still working on adding this spacer to my ranchero to get my front end up off the ground some.
 

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Tires size is really about taste. I like a tall, wide tire with more sidewall in the rear more like a drag slick. I like it to fille up the wheel well and not stick outside of the fender. I currently have a 275/60/15 in the rear. It has the look im refering to, but isnt enough tire for the power levels im making, so im looking at wider, probably around 11-12 inch wide, and 28.5-29.5 inches tall, with either a drag radial, or straight up racing slick. I personally like Mickey thompson, BFG, and Falcon and yokohama tires. For the fronts, i like the tire to fill the wheel well in the same way, but with a narrower tire. I dont like off road tires on rancheros or elky's, just not my taste. As i said earlier, theyre not really trucks, but then again theyre not really cars either...:confused:

If your just looking for a decent all around tire size to get you by- 225-70-15 will be tall enough, and wide enough to suit all your driving needs. It gets low style points, but its a solid functional size for the chero. As far as brand goes, you get what you pay for. You cant really buy a HORRIBLE new tire these days, but some are deffinetly better than others.
 

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I think my timing is a bit retarded though its a bit hard to start probably cause its carbureted....
First off, NO! NO car is hard to start because it has a carburetor.

Hard start is improper ignition timing, vacuum issues or poor components, or any combo of these things.

Thridly..... you are approaching the idea of a Cam all wrong. I am very surprised that nobody tried to explain it, or even mention it.

And I skip over peoples threads that have no breaks in their 746 word SENTENCES... :(

You choose your cam profile to go with the design of your intake manifold and the flow of your heads.

The factors are few but the benefits are many, you don't want a monster lift cam with a 2V intake and a 400 cfm carb. That's a waste!

Many things effect the cam choice and making all the parts go together well for the range you want to operate your engine is the key.

Secondly, I'd stay away from Comp and Edelbrock and all those goof balls, take your cam to Delta Camshafts in Tacoma and have them grind you a can to the specs you want. You won't regret it. I've used them several times and the engines are flawless.
 

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Delta are good people. But comp and edelbrock are hardly goof balls, well edelbrock maybe ;-)
First off, NO! NO car is hard to start because it has a carburetor.

Hard start is improper ignition timing, vacuum issues or poor components, or any combo of these things.

Thridly..... you are approaching the idea of a Cam all wrong. I am very surprised that nobody tried to explain it, or even mention it.

And I skip over peoples threads that have no breaks in their 746 word SENTENCES... :(

You choose your cam profile to go with the design of your intake manifold and the flow of your heads.

The factors are few but the benefits are many, you don't want a monster lift cam with a 2V intake and a 400 cfm carb. That's a waste!

Many things effect the cam choice and making all the parts go together well for the range you want to operate your engine is the key.

Secondly, I'd stay away from Comp and Edelbrock and all those goof balls, take your cam to Delta Camshafts in Tacoma and have them grind you a can to the specs you want. You won't regret it. I've used them several times and the engines are flawless.
 
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