I've used Flame shape with round tip, Cylinder shape with round tip and Flame shape with pointed tip. I ordered my set from http://www.dearbornclassics.com I used this set to port 2V Cleveland and 2V Aussie heads. I believe you will be doing the same mate...
"Long Live the Cleveland"
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: marzz22 on 9/19/06 1:26am ]</font>
I use pear shaped tips in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2". I do the final blending with silicon carbide stones.
When using carbide burrs on aluminum use parafin wax to coat the burr. That will keep the burr from loading with aluminum and cut down on the cleanup time.
For port matching and bowl work, I use long-cut smaller diameter round-nosed cylinders for 80% of it. The blending angles are much easier to control as well as surface waviness. Final blending is a third the effort than when using a curved-shape cutter (egg, flame, etc.). In the bowls, I use the RN-CYL again and ball-end cutters for the bowl radius and back cutting of the guide radius. If all I had was a long length-of-cut RN-CYL (as long as I could get) and a couple small balls and maybe one small egg I'd be okay. If I'm doing full runner porting I'll use many different cutters from the box. That's a different ballgame. Chambers get the same tools except the RN-CYL is larger diameter.
Opinions you didn't ask for but may help: Use two hands and hug the tool for stability when possible, moving your whole body to move the tool with light pressure. Use lower tool and travel speeds to avoid hopping, skipping and waviness and light pressure to let the cutter do the work without gouging or grooving. Pretend you're a CNC mill. A head jig is very useful and avoids a lot muscle cramping as well as making blending angles much easier to get accurate. Do a little on each port and go back to the first to do more and repeat. Doing one port all the way ensures different ports. Oh, and less is often more. At the minimum, get a shop vac sucked-up to your valve seat and a sensitive vacuum gauge with a thin tube to probe the runner for sudden pressure changes that need blending. Not removal - just blending. Like the lady said - size doesn't matter, smooth technique does.
I got the ZK3LS set from Matco to do a 2.3 head and a cbr600 head a long time ago. I had no problems whatsoever even with the aluminum motorcycle head. I'm by no means a pro head porter but I am a tech at a dealership and still use this same grinder all the time and occasionaly the bits, I'ts some cheap Cummins grinder I got at a traveling tool sale. I'm going to use the same set to do my 289 heads.
Also I was looking in the catalog today and saw this:
I like to have all 4 of my die grinders setup with assorted cutters . I like to use short shank cutters as much as I can as there easier to control. I found that there are two many shapes in the port to stay with one shape . For a better finish I will switch a flapper wheel for finishing . I have a Ingersoll , CP ,Jet ,Power fist and a Campbell hausfeld. The Campbell is the only one that i would not recommend to any body .
How much blending of the bowl are you guys doing?
I was taught - and this was a long time ago - to blend the first 1/2" - 3/4" of the bowl and runner. I decided it was a good idea to cut the A.I. R. lumps out of the Windsor exhaust ports in addition to the port and bowl blending.
Since I saw the pictures I use round and egg shape. My opinion is they will be good and no need to use stones. The last set I did was smother than the CNC marks of my AFR heads And I know the AFR's are better. So the key is the shape and not the surface.