Best way to stab a 302 distributor?
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With a knife?
Well, just verify you're at TDC on the compression stroke (no valves are open,) drop it in, and find which contact/terminal the rotor is pointing at. Label that one 1, plug in the #1 wire, and then go around the cap counterclockwise in the firing order with the rest of the plug wires.
It may not go in just right, and you may have to adjust it a tooth forward or backward to get it right on - the oil pump shaft can give you problems sometimes because it only fits every 45 degrees, whereas the gear fits every 5 or so.
Once you get it all situated, rotate the dizzy body so the rotor is pointing right at where you have #1. That should get you close enough that you can move it around and get it running smooth enough to put a timing light on it.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: thekingofazle on 5/26/06 1:52am ]</font>
Well, just verify you're at TDC on the compression stroke (no valves are open,) drop it in, and find which contact/terminal the rotor is pointing at. Label that one 1, plug in the #1 wire, and then go around the cap counterclockwise in the firing order with the rest of the plug wires.
It may not go in just right, and you may have to adjust it a tooth forward or backward to get it right on - the oil pump shaft can give you problems sometimes because it only fits every 45 degrees, whereas the gear fits every 5 or so.
Once you get it all situated, rotate the dizzy body so the rotor is pointing right at where you have #1. That should get you close enough that you can move it around and get it running smooth enough to put a timing light on it.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: thekingofazle on 5/26/06 1:52am ]</font>
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I got two dords for ya... "Ice Pick" LOL!
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Everyone knows you use an ice pick on a cold motor you silly.
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put it at TDC like what was said but get a 1/4 socket on an extension and if the dizzy won't drop in, just rotate the oil pump driveshaft a little at a time and eventually it will fall right down
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I hear the "Shining" horror music in the background.
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How did you get to this point anyway. Several ways to do it. And if you stick a socket and extension down tere to turn that shaft you better get ready for some serious problems when that socket pulls off the extension. First you have to make sure you're on the comp stroke of #1 cyl. Only 3 ways to do that. The timing marks on the timing chain lined up, watching the valves till #1 intake closes and timing marks on damper lined up, Use the starter to tap the engine over a little at a time with your finger in #1 plugs hole. You'll feel the comp coming up. Then line up the timing marks. Those timing marks come around twice and you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right unless you verify the comp on #1 cyl.
I have the motor at TDC and as I was trying to put the distributor in I realised that the oil pump shaft does not sit straight so it does not want to line up. Anyone have any word of advice on how I should go about getting it in there?
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Just hold down on the distributor while getting someone to "bump" the starter and it should fall right in.
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the socket won't fall in the motor if you pay attention to what you're doing, if you're that worried about it wrap some tape around it. This is the method I have always used and never had a problem, It's also how I prime my new engines. I would be more worried that the DS comes up with it and falls in the pan.
The thing about the shaft into the dist is, when you first get the dist and cam gear to mesh, the rotor is off about 45 degs. As the dist goes down in the block and the shaft the rotor will turn. This is sometimes where you have to pull the dist and move it a tooth either way. Trail and error and once you get it where it looks good, if it's not into the shaft, just use the starter to bump the engine over. Then once it down all the way, turn the engine over until the rotor is pointing toward #1 terminal, line up the timing mark and go from there. Just remember which way the rotor turns, counter clockwise.
I dunno, maybe ask O.J.?
Seriously. set the crank damper at 10 deg BTDC or somewhere close, make a mark on the dist housing that lines up with the #1 cyl on the cap (I use a windowed cap for this), drop it in the block, line up the rotor with the mark you made...and it'll be real close.
I sometimes will crank the motor over with only the #1 plug stuck on a wire (not in the head) and set the initial timing without having to start the motor. Its much easier that way since mine is alcohol injected....I don't like to crank on it forever. By doing it that way, it also puts a little bit of alky in the lines while setting the timing...and when the dist is dropped in, it usually fires off immediately.
Seriously. set the crank damper at 10 deg BTDC or somewhere close, make a mark on the dist housing that lines up with the #1 cyl on the cap (I use a windowed cap for this), drop it in the block, line up the rotor with the mark you made...and it'll be real close.
I sometimes will crank the motor over with only the #1 plug stuck on a wire (not in the head) and set the initial timing without having to start the motor. Its much easier that way since mine is alcohol injected....I don't like to crank on it forever. By doing it that way, it also puts a little bit of alky in the lines while setting the timing...and when the dist is dropped in, it usually fires off immediately.
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: tonys10sec306 on 5/28/06 3:06am ]</font>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: tonys10sec306 on 5/28/06 3:06am ]</font>
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