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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, My Alternator, is almost definately original, battery new in late febuary this year. The Alternator is bad to my dad's and my knowledge, but it still works, the solenoid new last summer, and works fine. Now my problem is... My car refuses to start if the car does not sit for 2 hours before starting. When I try to start it, the starter turns over twice, then quits out and my power is out for 5 seconds. But if i have my battery jumper hooked up to it, it struggles the first couple of times but will turn over eventually, but it's a pain in the ass to do. I think it's either bad wires, or the alternator doesn't chrage the battery at all anymore. Any help will work
 

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Sounds like the alternator to me. If it was the battery you wouldn't be able to start it without a jump. It is like when you barely turn on your car and leave it at idle for a bit, then turn it off and try to turn it on. You turn the key and it will try to turn the engine, but stalls sometimes. You are just not charging the battery enough. What is the voltage that the alternator is charging at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well my dad thinks there is a short in the dash. My battery gauge in my dash is in amps, and is now at or barely to the positive side of 0 when the car is on, it was between 0 and +15 usually. I do want a new starter, cause it is stock, and old. And when me and my dad were working on it, he had it running he took the battery cable off, and it ran for less then a minute before it started sputting out, then quit out.
 

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If you are losing all power after a high load that then returns it is most likely a bad connection. The starter will naturally draw more power when hot and the excess current is more than you wiring is handling. Clean your terminals well and if the ends look bad replace them. It is most likely the short cable between the pos. battery terminal and the solenoid. Also check where the neg. cable meets the engine block and then check the ground strap between the engine and body. From what you describe your problem isn't your alternator.
Good luck...Lee
 

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Check your cables. If they are crusty or old, you wont get good contact there, it will be intermitten. Check the cables first, they are only a few bucks for new ones.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My battery cables are new with the battery, and my ground is pretty good on the block. Most of the wires look pretty bad, one of them is all electrical tape, and part duct tape. the ones on the alt. don't look that bad, but it's a problem of how i can convince my dad that we need wires first, since he's paying for this stuff right now. I was pricing a starter the other day, but i'm not sure if i should get one now, or wait intil it's dead completely
 

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On 2002-05-14 21:17, meemooer wrote:
My battery cables are new with the battery, and my ground is pretty good on the block. Most of the wires look pretty bad, one of them is all electrical tape, and part duct tape. the ones on the alt. don't look that bad, but it's a problem of how i can convince my dad that we need wires first, since he's paying for this stuff right now. I was pricing a starter the other day, but i'm not sure if i should get one now, or wait intil it's dead completely
1: A connection doesn't have to be loose to be bad....take them apart and clean them

2: Waiting for the starter to fail is like waiting for the elevator cables to snap.......If you don't replace it when you think it is going bad I gauran.f'n.tee you it will go completely dead at 2:00 AM in the middle of Cleveland on the wrong side of the tracks

3: Just be glad you don't drive a German car...electrical nightmare.
 

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Well sounds like a bad starter to me as it starts after sitting for awhile possibly the starter is shorting out internally when it gets hot and as for the car quiting when you disconnect the battery possible alternator problem.
 

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On 2002-05-14 22:22, rbaney wrote:
Well sounds like a bad starter to me as it starts after sitting for awhile possibly the starter is shorting out internally when it gets hot and as for the car quiting when you disconnect the battery possible alternator problem.
It sounds that way at first for the reasons you mention but That wont cause a power failure as he describes. A bad connection will. Tha starter may be going bad and amplifying the problem.
 

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Well had similar problem with my F150 and it just turned out that my starter was shorting when warmed up.Also does this thing make a clicking noise when it dyes or not? If it makes that normal clicking noise than solenoid should be fine possible loose or corroded connector on it though.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: rbaney on 5/15/02 4:07pm ]</font>
 

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IT MUST BE YOUR ALTERNATOR
WHEN YOU FIRST START AN ENGINE THE ALT PUTS OUT ALOT OF CHARGE TO REPLENISH WHAT WAS TAKEN OUT BY THE STARTER,THAT IS WHY THE AMMETER SHOWS A LOT OF CHARGE STRAIGHT AWAY,AS THE BATTERY TOPS UP AGAIN THE METER SHOWS A LESSER CHARGE AS THE BATTERY NEEDS LESS TO KEEP TOPPED UP
THE ALT MAY HAVE A LOW OUTPUT DUE TO A BLOWN DIODE OR A FAULTY VOLTAGE REGULATOR
HOPE THIS HELPS???
 

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Have you thought about getting both the starter and alternator tested. Many auto supply stores up here have the equipment to test these things, usually for free if you purchase the replacement from them. I assume the same would apply in the U.S. That way you only replace what's needed.
 

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I had the same problem without the elec. stoppage. The motor would roll over real slow and would eventualy stop.

The alternator tested good, so it must be a bad cell in a battery. Bought a new Optima, problem stopped.

Two months later the problem returned. Ok, I needed to replace the stock alternator with one up to snuff for my electric fans. Problem still there.

Pulled the starter. It looked good, but apon spinning the gear it sounded like it was full of rocks.


I bought one of the starters from PA Performance. It was $135 for a new mini starter. Rick at PA was very helpful in making sure I had the right one. Even sent me a digital pic to confirm it.

It used to have that slow roll over that all old Fords do. It rolls over so fast it sounds like a Dodge.

The reason for the electrical stoppage is probably from pulling so much current to turn a bad starter over. It's keeping you from a meltdown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah i have thought about replacing both starter, and alternator, But I'm not the one that decides that, cause my dad is paying. So it's pretty much if i can convince him to go with both. I am getting new wires for the most part in the engine compartment over the weekend

_________________
Randy,
1972 Ford Gran Torino Sport, 351-C, C6 , which makes it very fun to drive....

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: meemooer on 5/16/02 10:56am ]</font>
 

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You need clean metal to metal contacts to carry the current through the starter. A little dirt, grease or paint will break the connection under heavy load.
Another tip- a hot starter will take longer to cool, while a poor contact point will always work poorly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK i bought a new alternator, $86 and it went in pretty smoothly. But there was a bright colored sticker on top of it saying "Warning : External Voltage Regulator Must be replaced when Alternator is replaced, May cause Overcharge. And will viod warrenty."
...now i somewhat know what one of those things are, but yet i don't... and the guy at the auto parts center said that i didn't nessicarly have to have one, with me stating that i don't even think i have one... It's a black square box right?... i have yet to see one, well without really knowing what i am looking for, on the firewall or on the solenoid by the altenator.
I am afraid to start my car kindda, without knowing about my situation better. Any help..
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok i don't have an external regulator and my auto teacher, and father told me that i don't need to buy one then. Alternator was the problem, but... i can not start my car without a battery jumper, and when it's running, all lights except dome light are dim, including brights. And i replaced the solenoid today, that didn't solve it, i was thinking wires could be the problem or, the old alternator beat on the battery so much it's dead completely
 
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