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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have the new 433 on the engine stand and went to install the Canton windage tray and oil pan only find out that both bolt heads on the rear main hang down 1/8 past the bottom of the block and contact the windage/pan. I can grind out the windage try a little to avoid the bolt heads but what about the pan? Engine builder said to take a ball penis hamer to it. Hard to smack a $300.00+ oil pan with a hammer! Any information is appreciated.

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64 Galaxie 500 XL (constantly morphing)


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: gbeeler on 6/29/06 10:06pm ]</font>
 

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An incomplete list of things you probably have already checked or tried. But here goes:

Did you chase the block threads, make sure they are not bottoming out, no debris at the bottom? Are you using a washer? Is the saddle level with the pan rail?

Did you change from the factory bolts? Measure them to be sure they are the same size.

Check the depth of the bolt recesses in the rear saddle, compare against bolt heads. This will tell you whether there is enough recess for the bolts to fit fully in the recess. Micrometer w/ depth gauge should do the trick.

You are using a windage tray? you are sandwiching the tray between two gaskets...one on the block and one on the oil pan.

If all else fails, double gasket the block side gasket, that should give you the extra 1/8 inch.

The only time I've had this problem was when I installed ARP studs in place of bolts. Usually the bolt heads are below the pan level. But the Studs were a little too long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The builder put in ARP or AARP whatever they are, brand of bolts and washers. The bolt hangs down about the same distance as the washer. The builder said there is no way to remove the washer. Nothing on this engine is stock. We are using a FE 360 block bored 30 over with a Scat stroker crank to punch us in at around 433 ci. I believe the kit is what is causing the problem since I am sure the crank is going to take way more stress therefore increasing the need for better than stock bolts. So if I understand you correctly...I could put 2 gaskets between the block and windage tray and then 1 between the windage and the pan for a total of 3. Is that right?
 

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Sounds like you have narrowed down the cause and the solution.

If you are paying a man to do the job, then you might as well follow his advice. The thickness of the second gasket should be equal to the thickness of the washer.

Use a permenent gasket sealer between the two on the block side, making them one extra thick gasket...that will cut down on the chance of "weeping" between them as engine oil starts to slosh around, it'll also make it easier to install them as one unit. Don't use sealer on the other (gasket to metal) surfaces, thats what the gasket is for. and don't crank down on the oil pan bolts. You'll just end up putting a dimple in the oil pan rail and making it easier to leak. Again, lthe idea is to let the gasket do its job. It's better to tighten up a bolt after you find a leak than to over tighten to the point of dimpling the sealing surface.

You may need to use an exacto knife to trim out room on the first gasket - enough to leave room for the bolt head, but don't cut the second one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Beowolf, Thanks for the help. I will be trying it all tonight after I do some grindage on the windage tray.

By the way, I was thinking of installing the studs for oil pan that Canton sent and laying the gasket on in place and tapping it with a mallot to see exactly what I need to remove. Does that sound like a good idea?


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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: gbeeler on 6/30/06 1:36am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, I have great news! I set the first gasket on the motor and hit it with a plastic mallet until it removed enoug material to set down below the bolt heads. Then I ground out the windage tray to allow for the bolt heads, installed the second gasket and it will all fit fine! Thanks to all who helped and gave advice!
 
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