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I have a new project now and this was the only place I could think of putting it. I am in the process in buying a farmall super M from my grandpa. Him and my uncle had some free time in the 90's and found a 302 and c4 out of a maverick that rolled. My uncle had it doing 60 on the highway and passed multiple people, including a school bus. I just wantto know if anyone has ever bored out a 302 and how far? I dont want to screw it up but I have the ability to do it and more power is never a problem.
Thanks, Ryker Carruthers
 

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I have a new project now and this was the only place I could think of putting it. I am in the process in buying a farmall super M from my grandpa. Him and my uncle had some free time in the 90's and found a 302 and c4 out of a maverick that rolled. My uncle had it doing 60 on the highway and passed multiple people, including a school bus. I just wantto know if anyone has ever bored out a 302 and how far? I dont want to screw it up but I have the ability to do it and more power is never a problem.
Thanks, Ryker Carruthers
So they put 302 and C4 in the farmall?
 

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post pictures after you get the thing home I would like to see how they joined it all together since the motor/tranny/rearend are kinda a combo unit
 

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Ryker, the factory says .030" over-bore maximum. Rebuilders often go .040" without problems on standard (non-performance) rebuilds, if there are no block defects or core shift. Many have done .060", but the risks of problems are are much higher, and ring sealing due to bore flex begins to show-up with even the best blocks in performance applications. So, the standard recommended performance over-bores for 302 blocks are .010, .020 and .030. HTH

David
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ryker, the factory says .030" over-bore maximum. Rebuilders often go .040" without problems on standard (non-performance) rebuilds, if there are no block defects or core shift. Many have done .060", but the risks of problems are are much higher, and ring sealing due to bore flex begins to show-up with even the best blocks in performance applications. So, the standard recommended performance over-bores for 302 blocks are .010, .020 and .030. HTH

David
Thanks!

5.0 Chero,
Ill get somw next time I make it up there. A long time ago i remember looking at the driveline and I think they left the u joint on the C4 and hooked it up to the tractor tranni. Its been sittin out in the weeds for awhile but was parked with oil pressure so hopefully its ok. Paint is rough. They did have to extend the frame to get the motor and transmission to fit
 

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I gotta say I would love to see that pic also!! I have done a 60 over 302 but it was on a Mexican block and the only issue I had was cooling until I got an aluminum radiator then I never had an issue. It had a 262 duration 514 lift cam, GT40P heads, RPM air gap, Holley 600, and shortie headers. It was backed by a C4 with a shift kit, and 4.11 8" rear end. That motor hauled a$$ and revved to 6K without any issues!
 

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Ford used to offer a flathead conversion for their old N searies tractors, Havent seen any kind of odd ball like your talking about (cept for the pro pull guys) sounds like a cool deal, there is a u tube of a farm tractor that they have some turboed Mercedes car engine in and its a tire spinning, burnout, donut turning machine... I'll try to track it down again....
 

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I gotta say I would love to see that pic also!! I have done a 60 over 302 but it was on a Mexican block and the only issue I had was cooling until I got an aluminum radiator then I never had an issue. It had a 262 duration 514 lift cam, GT40P heads, RPM air gap, Holley 600, and shortie headers. It was backed by a C4 with a shift kit, and 4.11 8" rear end. That motor hauled a$$ and revved to 6K without any issues!
So your saying you had all the parts/mods done and no overheating problem- Then bored .060" over made it overheat.
 

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It ran around 210-220 on the down flow 4 row until I put in a Northern 2 row aluminum and it never ran over 190 then with a standard flex a lite plastic fan that has the 90 degree bend blades and no shroud. I also had an aluminum water pump on it. The motor before it was a 75 stock 302 with a 272 cam and the GT40P heads and a Weiand Xcellerator that never ran hot.
 

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Why should I Google it David when you can.....LOL!

Alright, fine.....so I was alittle lazy on the key board that time...:bow:
 

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It ran around 210-220 on the down flow 4 row until I put in a Northern 2 row aluminum and it never ran over 190 then with a standard flex a lite plastic fan that has the 90 degree bend blades and no shroud. I also had an aluminum water pump on it. The motor before it was a 75 stock 302 with a 272 cam and the GT40P heads and a Weiand Xcellerator that never ran hot.
everything got swap out except the heads. shorter duration cam - that up's the dcr.
gears the same?

why I ask , done .060" over 302's and no other changes and had no overheating problem.
 

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Yes gears were the same and yes the only thing that stayed was the heads oh and the Xcellerator intake. It may have just been that the radiator was no good but I had it re-cored like a year and a half or so before I did the motor swap. I didn't change the gears to the 4.11 till way later in the 10 years I had it. I also didn't change the intake till about a year before I sold it. Let me tell you going from the single plane to the RPM Air Gap made the biggest difference I have ever felt in any car! The car would fall on its face at 5K before the swap but after I shifted her at 6200 and she screamed! It gained a lot more power than I ever expected. Wish I could have taken it to the track then. It ran a 14.7 with a late light and missed shift into 3rd with the single plane.
 
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