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Discussion Starter #1
In process of doing the Granada swap on the 63Galaxie using 78 T-Bird spindals and 68Mustand MC. Ford adjustable proportioning valve should be here early next week.

For my front brake lines, do i need to bring them togeather using a block valve(?) and then just run one line to MC? Only one line can go to the MC so i'm assuming this would be the way to do it, just not sure what the part is called??

Can anyone give me recomendations on how i should run these lines for the front? I realize it will be all custom since i'm doing it.

Rear brake line comes up along frame by gear box, do i just run this line to the firewall were the adjustable PV will be and then run the line from it to MC?

Thanks
Kevin
 

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For my front brake lines, do i need to bring them together using a block valve(?)
There should be 3 outlets on your proportioning valve that the brakes go to, 2 for front and 1 for the rear.. BUT I am not familiar with the Ford Adj PV. Someone else may have to interject on that.
and then just run one line to MC? Only one line can go to the MC so i'm assuming this would be the way to do it, just not sure what the part is called??
If not I would use a T-fitting into the the PV for the 2 lines into the PV
Can anyone give me recomendations on how i should run these lines for the front? I realize it will be all custom since i'm doing it.
Usually the right side brake line is ran along the back side of crossmember. Left side normally on inside of frame rail up and over top of rail to the mounting/hold tab on frame.
Rear brake line comes up along frame by gear box, do i just run this line to the firewall were the adjustable PV will be and then run the line from it to MC?

Thanks
Kevin
Yep..
 

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There should be 3 outlets on your proportioning valve that the brakes go to, 2 for front and 1 for the rear.. BUT I am not familiar with the Ford Adj PV. .
Not really.

A proportioning valve typically goes only in the rear brake line, e.g.:



Any valve that has the front brakes plumbed into it is typically referred to as a 'combination valve' and has some other function in it as well:

- a shuttle-valve in it to turn on a warning light in case of failure of one circuit (typical of late '60s-'80s pre-ABS OEM practice but not necessary in a conversion)

- residual pressure valves for drum-brake circuits (GM and some aftermarket conversions put the RPVs in the combination valve, Ford MCs typically had them in the master-cylinder outlet ports.

What you need in the front circuit is just a tee, this is a generic SAE inverted-flare brass tee:

http://store.fedhillusa.com/ta13br.aspx

they're also available with mounting tabs and etc.

Other flavors are available for AN/JIC 37-degree flares with nuts and sleeves, and ISO bubble-flares typically found on Euro/Japanese cars and some newer domestics.

If you've never done brake-line flaring before, make sure you've got a good tool and you get some practice before you tackle something you're betting your life on. It's not really hard, but it's important to be able to get good, consistent results.
 

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Your brake system should include the MC, front splitter, rear proportioning valve, and brake light switch. For simplicity, I would run the rear MC port (front brake line) to a 4-port cross block, with Front IN, two front OUT, and brake switch. The front MC port (rear brake line) would go to the proportioning valve, then on to the stock rear axle hose, T-fitting on the axle, and to the brakes.

The Ford valve you ask about (pic below) is commonly called a proportioning valve, but in-fact often has no proportioning capability. It's also more correctly called a combination valve, as it does a combination of things. You don't need one as you are using other stuff to do the job, and you don't have provision for the brake failure warning light in a '63, right?

David

Typical mid-'60s and newer combination valve. They are specific to the model and braking system of the original car. Sometimes these contain proportioning valves, front apply delay valves, isolation shuttle valves, brake warning switches, residual pressure valves, etc.:

 

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Discussion Starter #5
PSIG,

Great photo and info. I have the valve that is pictured. I looked at the original MC (manual drum all around) it has a electrical plug similar to the one on valve in pic. Is this brake failure light or does this control the brake lights when you hit the brake pedal?

Also since i do not have a "T" block for front lines can i go ahead and use the PV and just run both front disc brakes to it?

Thanks
KEvin
 

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If your switch was on the MC, then that's the brake light (not warning) switch. It can go anywhere in the pressure line circuit, but usually in a distribution block like mentioned earlier.

You can often use the original combination valve, but without disassembly or X-ray vision to verify there are no parts that will pooch the system, I'd ditch it and use the blocks. If you are willing to pull it apart for a look-see, (and you might as well if you're going to have to ditch it anyway) then we can check it and perhaps use it as is, or remove a couple pieces and make it work for this. However, that still doesn't give you a place for your brake switch (the combo valve location won't work for that), so you're heading back towards ditching it and using blocks again... LOL

David

PS: as earlier, you do not want a "T" block, but a 4-way to have a port for the brake switch. An "X" or "+" block. You could use two "T" blocks but with twice the fittings and twice the leak points. A 4-way would be cleaner looking too.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If your switch was on the MC, then that's the brake light (not warning) switch. It can go anywhere in the pressure line circuit, but usually in a distribution block like mentioned earlier.

You can often use the original combination valve, but without disassembly or X-ray vision to verify there are no parts that will pooch the system, I'd ditch it and use the blocks. If you are willing to pull it apart for a look-see, (and you might as well if you're going to have to ditch it anyway) then we can check it and perhaps use it as is, or remove a couple pieces and make it work for this. However, that still doesn't give you a place for your brake switch (the combo valve location won't work for that), so you're heading back towards ditching it and using blocks again... LOL

David

PS: as earlier, you do not want a "T" block, but a 4-way to have a port for the brake switch. An "X" or "+" block. You could use two "T" blocks but with twice the fittings and twice the leak points. A 4-way would be cleaner looking too.

David,

Just so i don't confuse myself in vocabulary; If i ditch the combo valve i have and go to a "4-way" should i be looking for one with the brake switch in it? Going to call parts store this a.m. and see whats available. If they do not have one can you recommend what to purchase just so i know i have the correct part?
Thanks
Kevin
 

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Any 4-port brake block. It will have inverted flare ports for brake lines. To add the switch, you use an inverted flare-to-NPT fitting. One NAPA near me sells all the parts, and another only the fittings. Try to ask for the know-it-all or the hot-rod guy there. If you didn't already have a prop valve, the Wilwood 260-11179 would be the ultimate answer, with every connection you need, a switch, and rear proportioning all in one.

David

A typical 4-port distribution block. They come in all shapes and sizes. This one has the MC in on the right, and R&L lines out the left. It also has another plugged port that the switch can screw into:



Here's one at Summit, but at $56 you might look for other local alternatives. Note it has 3 inverted flare ports and a switch port. The connections shown are an example - the 3 brake ports can be in any location. Perfect:


If starting from scratch, the Wilwood combo-block has it all:

 

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I assume the switch on the Wilwood 260-11179 is a brake light switch, not a warning light switch, right?
 

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Yes, the switch is a brake light switch - NOT a brake warning switch. For more info and the fitting sizes, etc. - go to the PDF here. This is for cars with no dash brake warning light.

If you just want to replace your later model factory combination valve (including a working warning switch) with one that also has a prop valve, then this is not the one to use, as it has no shuttle valve to trip a warning switch if one side goes out. This one is just a distribution block with a built-in adjustable prop valve and brake light switch.

David

PS: I have not done business with, nor know anything about the company I linked to. It was simply the first source I Googled for the Wilwood part as an example. Summit and many others also carry them.
 

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In other words, when modifying the original 4 drum 1 circuit brake system in a 63 Galaxie to a front disc/rear drum 2 circuit system with dual MC, the Wilwood valve will fit I guess
 

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Yes. If you have no warning light (or do not care if you do), then it will work well for that.
:tup:
David
 

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Not really.

A proportioning valve typically goes only in the rear brake line, e.g.:

Damn your right.. a brain fart day I suppose... Seems to happen more and more lately... lol
 

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sixty3, if you want I have the instruction from Crites on how to install the T-Bird disc brakes using the combintion valve and what master cylinder to use. I can email them to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
sixty3, if you want I have the instruction from Crites on how to install the T-Bird disc brakes using the combintion valve and what master cylinder to use. I can email them to you.

That would be great. interesting to see what they say. can email at
[email protected]

a fello worker has a 64 that put a $$$front disc kit in and i'm hoping mine is as good if not better for what i have in it.
 
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