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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
At the tail lights on my 64 Ranchero I have isolated L turn wire R turn wire Brake wire and running wire. All on drivers side. Only the R turn wire is runs across to the passenger side. There are 2 other wires cut at both ends that also run from R to L tail lights. Can you tell me how all of this should be hooked up? None of the wires are connected. looks like somebody just cut all the wire ends? Could not figure out the configuration with a double filament bulb. Any help would be great.
 

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First----no brake wire
The brake lamps are tied into the rear turn lamps.

According to my 65 Falcon wiring

Wire 14-----Black-----tail lamps and license lamp
Wire 7------Red/Black----Tail/Turn/Backup ground wire
Wire 5------Orange/Blue--Right turn & Brake signal
Wire 9------Green/Orange--Left turn & Brake signal
Wire 29-----Yellow/White--Fuel sender
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Bryan. All of the colors are there I just hope they are in the right place at the other end. I will update. On another note, my "awesome" ex mechanic is telling me my 64 Ranchero 260 was originally a 6 volt system thus because I had the gas tank refurbished and bought a new fuel sender from Auto Krafters that is the reason my fuel gauge does not work, claiming its a 6 volt sender. Any thoughts?
 

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Thank you Bryan. All of the colors are there I just hope they are in the right place at the other end. I will update. On another note, my "awesome" ex mechanic is telling me my 64 Ranchero 260 was originally a 6 volt system thus because I had the gas tank refurbished and bought a new fuel sender from Auto Krafters that is the reason my fuel gauge does not work, claiming its a 6 volt sender. Any thoughts?
Nope---was born a 12volt system.
But the fuel gage is regulated down to about 5 volts.
This is not strange at all-----MOST of the fuel gages that I have dealt with
are brought down to 5-6 volts via an internal resistor.
Ford motors for whatever reason opted to use 5-6 volt gauges for the temp and oil as well.
So, rather than putting resitors in all of the gages----they use that little voltage regulator on the back of the insrument cluster.

Does your temp gage work??
temp and fuel gages are fed from the same source----but you need to know that these gages go thru a voltage regulator that steps the voltage down to about 5 volts.

This little regulator is mounted on the back of the instrment cluster..

All the fuel sender is----is a variable resistor to ground---

Fuel gage not working ---- try this
Turn the key on----unplug the fuel tank wire----check gage
run a jumper wire from the tank wire directly to a good ground----check gage.

If the gage does not move at all (I think is should read full when grounded)

Check to make sure the ground wire is intact from the sending unit to the frame.

Check sending unit resistance with a meter------should get a reading with the meter set on "OHMS" that is NOT '000' or 'OL'
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I knew it!!! Ok hooked up the wires for the lights but could not figure why the R side was still screwy. But then I find the lic plate wire cut and spliced into R turn signal. now the flasher behind the speedo is hot and not clicking. Going to pick up new flasher and try again. Man can't thank you enough. Almost there hopefully.

Pulled the speedo to find most lights and the wire on the left of the resistor unplugged. plugged them all back in. Then unplugged the yellow wire from back of gas gauge from the sending unit and grounded the gauge contact. Arm moved to full. On the sending unit there is no ground wire just the single pole that the yellow wire is connected to. Wonder if since I had the tank refurbished and its fully coated that its now not grounded through the straps?

As far as the turn signal changed the flasher but the whole light/fuse assembly seemed to be loose and after wiggling it around the flasher would click for a min. Then totally stopped. Found the center fuse burnt and the green wire with the yellow stripe was broke off at the contact. Will repair. Two wires coming out of column. looks like Orange/blue or black and Green/orange. I will match up with Orange/blue R and Green/orange L coming from tail lights. now where do I hook up the Black/red? Boy is this thing screwed up for no reason.
 

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I think you nailed it when you mentioned your tank is coated.
 

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Also, a common problem is a bad float. Sometimes they develop small holes and fill up with fuel making them sit at the bottom of the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update. Ran a jumper from sending unit lock ring to bed bolt and what do you know gas gauge works. I need to find a way to attach it permanently. Got Running, Brake and Signals all working just could not figure where under dash to hook up Black/red ground wire coming from tail lights.

Is there a better setup than this terrible Headlight/Fuse system? Something is still loose because the dash lights work sometimes and the signal as well. Tried to tighten the fuse end holders but everything is really sloppy. Any ez fixes or upgrades out there?
 

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Probably not readily available

You might just go ahead and order a new headlight switch for it---but the issue may be somewhere else.

The headlights on my 65 would flicker when on brights---dash lights never worked

So--since the car is down for some repairs and upgrading, I may very well
modify a GM switch to work---since I am rewiring anyway.
 

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One thing I have found is to make sure the screws holding the cluster to the dash are all tight,that is your how your cluster is grounded. ROY.
 

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65's have a 2 pin connector under the dash that the rear brake/turn lamps plug into. Don't know if the 64 had that connector or just two individual bullet connectors.
Add a ground wire to the instrument cluster. Early fords grounded the cluster through the mounting screws. Not very reliable. Starting in 65 ford added a ground wire to the harness to ground the cluster.
As you have discovered the fuel sender is only grounded by it's mount ring and screws mounting the tank. Add a ground wire to the fuel outlet tube by just clamping a ground wire to that and find a good frame ground point. Should have no more problems there unless the sender is defective.
R
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks again for all the help. After taking the Ign/Fuse apart and cleaning it with some tuner cleaner and adding a ground to the Instrument cluster, everything works. From the Dome to the Licence plate light, even the dimmer. Hooked up my tach and new gauges to the dimmer. Sweet. The turn signal assembly is real loose but working. Now to tackle the horn and window washer. Missing something in the steering wheel. Button has no spring to it and Horns are gone all together. Anybody know what the small petal with the diaphram above the high beam switch is?
 

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Pedal with the diaphragm is probably the pump for your windshield washers.
 
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