[Texasbikers]

Hi guys, I've done some reading and searching but pretty confused. I have a 64 gal with original 4 wheel drum brakes and the single bowl master cylinder.

My goal is to
1. Be able to to a good powerbrake, light up the rear for 1/8 mile strip racing and the occasional burn out off the track. While I'm at it if I can actually improve braking then that's a plus.

So I was thinking I'd move to a 2 bow master cylinder, bought one for a 68 Gal and was going to put it in when I had my engine out last week. Well, all was good till I noticed there was no hole to screw in the brake light sensor and the brake lines I got were all wrong so I put it off for later, now I want to figure it out.

So, is there an easy way to move to a 2 bowl system? and I have a JEGS proportioning valve I was going to put on the rear brakes so I could do my burnouts effectively.

I'm not sure what 2 bowl master cyl I should get. Or, is there a better way to approach this like convert to disc brakes on the front etc...

Thanks fellas !!
Patrick in Nashville

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

If you go from a 1 lung bowl to a double, you must move the brake light switch to the foot pedal. A simple extending or pressure witch will suffice, you just need to make a couple small brackets under the dash so when you begin to move the pedal the brake lights come on.

The brake lines are all fabbed, and the proportioning valve is a good idea but you must never forget to open it back up when you are driving for a safe smooth even braking application.

 

[SemiCrazy]

This may or may not be blasphemous but.....I used a Chevrolet unit on a simple bracket under the dash so it interacts with the brake pedal.

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

This may or may not be blasphemous but.....I used a Chevrolet unit on a simple bracket under the dash so it interacts with the brake pedal.

Not at all, KISS is the way to go! Besides, they use our rear ends, why not use their brake switches. Fair swap I think.

 

[63ford406]

I plumb a stock brake light switch in one of the lines coming off of the new dual master cylinder so I don't have to modify any wiring. If you are going to keep the drum brakes you don't need a proportioning valve. Only used on Disc brakes. Also If you keep the drum brakes I use a master cylinder for a 68 Mustang with non-power drum brakes with a 1" bore.

 

[Texasbikers]

I plumb a stock brake light switch in one of the lines coming off of the new dual master cylinder so I don't have to modify any wiring. If you are going to keep the drum brakes you don't need a proportioning valve. Only used on Disc brakes. Also If you keep the drum brakes I use a master cylinder for a 68 Mustang with non-power drum brakes with a 1" bore.

Looks like a part# 10-1485 on Oreilly's site

So I can leave out the proportioning valve? when I stand on the brakes will the rears be able to spin more freely with a dual bowl setup vs a the single bowl I have now?

Thank you!

 

[danv]

I plumb a stock brake light switch in one of the lines coming off of the new dual master cylinder so I don't have to modify any wiring. If you are going to keep the drum brakes you don't need a proportioning valve. Only used on Disc brakes. Also If you keep the drum brakes I use a master cylinder for a 68 Mustang with non-power drum brakes with a 1" bore.

Any chance of getting a picture of this switch in place?

 

[63ford406]

danv, I'll take one tomorrow down at the shop and email it to you. PM me your email.

Texasbikers, For what you want to do you need a "Line Lock". Hurst used to make them. Don't know if they still do.

 

[r.n.r.racing]

I agree with 63ford406, you need to install a line lock/roll control. They are easy to install since you will have to bend new lines for your new master cylinder. Just plumb it into your front brake lines. When you want to do a burn out just step on the brakes and hit the switch. Release the brakes and as long as you have your hand on the button, the front brakes will continue to hold. When the tires are warm enough then just release the button to move forward.

Here is a cheap one from Jegs-
JEGS Performance Products 63000 JEGS Stage Control Solenoid Valve

 

[Texasbikers]

Ok. Got it, line lock kit! I'll do it

On the new master cylinder, I see the one for a 68 mustang has two bowls the same size.

I was looking through a speedway magazine, I see one with two bowls, one bowl is quite a bit bigger than the other. Is thei what I should GE looking for??

I will have the original drum brakes all the way around.
Thanks much!