Agggilli has described it rather well, but I'll add that the compressed air hose with spark plug threads can be used from a compression tester. Or,
buy one, or get a free loaner from the auto parts store. Also, as you have removed the rockers anyway, don't worry about firing stroke or not, as it doesn't matter. When you apply your 100 psi the piston will stroke down to bottom-center all by itself. Use caution there, as the crank will obviously turn, including the fan, alternator, etc.
I'd also recommend either a magnetic tool, or a killer magnet stuck on needle-nose pliers to easily pluck the valve locks (split keepers) from the retainer. Plug every head drain and pushrod hole with paper toweling, as the dropped valve locks have a magic way of finding those holes. I throw a shop rag over the process just to prevent the occasional flying keepers from being lost.
Note here, that a
push-type removal tool is both
cheap and very fast when stock valve springs are the enemy. However, while easy on an engine stand, in the car can be a bear when trying to apply 80 pounds of force on it, or smacking it with a hammer. If you have the room to do it - this type is a winner. If not, valve spring compressors are usually used.
There are a number of valve spring compressors that will work, from
cam-over tools to
special FE-only versions, from $25 to nearly $100. I use the cam-over type a lot, as it fits almost every overhead-valve engine type. I do not suggest the type with a screw knob on top, as they will wear you out pretty fast. The job isn't hard - just tedious. Figure 1/2 to a full day for the first time, taking it careful and slow. And, don't forget to pull all your paper towel plugs.
:tup:
David
