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Doug can also fix you up with a set of thick wall shafts to go with the end stands. He is great to deal with too.
 

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Well, there is the "right" answer, and there is what I would do. LOL I am sure Bill will agree, you want the freshest, tightest shafts and rockers you can get for oil control. However, with that being said, odds seriously are in your favor that you arent going to break another shaft with end stands.

If it were me, I'd just slap a set of end stands on and run used shafts if the rockers fit nice. If they were real sloppy.....I'd do the same with another set of rockers that werent so sloppy LOL
 

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ive gotta see whats going with the Crane kit. a friend at the local speed shop sold one to another customer and said the stock length pushrods worked fine for a 390. i bought stock length pushrods as well, but i heard that it does have to be shimmed. im not looking forward to that either though. the kit does look rather complete and it comes in a box that resembles something the pizza man would bring to your place. it comes with pretty much everything including on the instructions of how to shim it. ( i believe so, its been sitting in the closet for a long time now... )
 

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If you get adjustable rocker arms, you will not have to play with measureing push rod lengths.

I have found that most valve heights are not uniform anyway. Once the heads are rebuilt or have a valve job...very few shops go thru the hassel of setting them correctly (OK, some people will argue about that), so lets just say they will not be the same height, its much easier to just shim the springs.

Take a straight edge ... long ruler (yardstick) will usually do the job good enough, check it by putting it on edge on a table top-not perfect, but good enough to see what I am explaining ... and lay it along the tops of the valves. If you can get more than a .020 - .030 gauge under the edge...I'll let you figure it out. See how much difference there is in height. Unless you want to put in custom length push rods for each valve they will never be correct. If you are lucky, there may be enough play in hydralic lifters to keep things reasonably in spec. - but I doubt it, might be good enough for mom 'n pop driving, but if ou rev it much past 4K, it'll bit you in the wallet, sooner or later.

And make sure you get tubular push rods. the Factory solid steel ones are heavy and bend way to easy. And check them often for straightness...Roll them over a mirror or table top to see if they are straight.

Sometimes saving money is more costly. When it comes to engines, FE's in particular - the heads are what makes the power.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 4/3/06 5:04am ]</font>
 

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The crane rockers are .085 longer on the valve side and .048 longer on the pushrod side. Thats the issue.

That causes the tip to be tracking on the outside edge of the valve, and on some heads could roll off the tip.

A ball and stud rocker just needs a pushrod change to locate the fulcrum at a different location and fix this, a shaft rocker needs shims and or machining of the stands, and a shorter or longer pushrod

Believe me, I wanted the to work, and for a mild driver, a set of lash caps and short pushrods they may have made it, but they were still wrong (too much travel across the tip and all on the outside of the valve)

My issue, is when you add up pushrods, lash caps, new keepers and retainers for lash caps, and the rockers, my 700 dollar Ersons with full needle bearing pivots are cheaper and bolt right on. Add to it some wear problems guys are seeing with the unbushed alum rockers, and I just decided to walk away. EVERY guy on the FE forum with the Crane's saw the same thing once I showed them my witness marks from roller tip travel

I even considered slotting the stands .085, but with the required additional length on the other side to keep the ratio with a longer valve side, even without slotting, the pushrod was real tight to the intake at lift and would probably requre those holes to be opened up and or bushed

Dont get me wrong, I WANTED them to work, but they are just poorly designed IMO. I would guess they adapted from another application. The shafts and stands are very nice, but the rocker design is just not correct for the application

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: My427stang on 4/3/06 6:35pm ]</font>
 

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I am almost certain they are adapted from the 440 Mopar, that is too much of a difference to make up with any accomodation measures.
 

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On 2006-03-31 18:14, M3FordBoy wrote:
^Alright thanks for that info because I'm definatly on a budget. Do I still need to get some chromemolly shafts or will stock do? I still my look into roller tipped rockers though.
LMK if you have not purchased anything yet. I am pretty sure that I have a stock shaft that I can send you (with or without stock rockers) if it will buy you more time to save up for "the right ones."
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
^I have not bought anything yeat and I greatly appreciate the offer, but I'm going to at least but the end stands and the shafts. It's not a matter of saving up now it's just having to convince the parents (and myself) into letting my buy these parts even with my own money. I have emailed Doug and for shafts and end stands about $260 I can get roller rockers to though him but by that time I might as well just buy the Erson kit from flatlanderacing.com because just about $50 more I can have the bolt and go kit all assembled.

So it's either just shafts and end stands for $260 (and use stock rockers) from Dough or get the Erson kit for $650. So now my question is will I have to get all new push rods for the Erson kit or will stock ones work? And will it be worth it to upgrade to rockers too? I guess the second question is kinda a known.

_________________
'68 Galaxie 500 XL


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: M3FordBoy on 4/4/06 5:01am ]</font>
 
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