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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just recently had a new cam put in a stock 289 i have already had to buy new retainers and valve springs due to clearence problems and the other day another pop came from the engine after running great for 3 weeks and a stud has broken off about 1/32 in. inside the head.

How can i get it out and what would cause this to happen?

thanks brian
 

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I managed to remove a couple of studs from 289 years ago without having to remove the heads.
I took some lithium grease (any would most likely work) and painted it all around the base of the damaged stud. Then masked the rest of the exposed area with a rag if this rag has oil or grease on it would be helpful. The grease helps to trap any of the shavings when you start drilling out the center of the bolt. Take an EZ out or screw extractor tap it in nice and solid, apply tap wrench and back her out. Carefully remove rag as to not drop shavings all in your open head then carefully clean up the shavings that are trapped on the grease with a clean rag.
Ras Daniel
 

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Common problem . Most likely the increased spring pressure of the performance cam springs are the culprit. Might also be the slot on the rocker hitting the stud ( although the rocker usually gives on that one)

Whenever you increase lift you have to address the WHOLE enchilada.
Springs, retainers, Studs, and rockers. Its Always more expensive than the cam kit etc to do it "RIGHT" ( this ought to get some flame).
The "right" (or more of a right way) way to do it.
1. A rebuild on the heads with the springs that you need to run. Check valve guide wear,do a valve job. etc.
2. While there there at the head shop have some screw in studs put in to replace the press in ones. And guide plates if you dont have the slotted heads.
3. Replace the stock rockers with some performance style "long slot" ones. Or roller tipped like the comp cams, Or full rollers.
4 Use some 'poly locks' to help adjust the valvetrain even on a hydraulic grind. The standard nuts will hold on a couple of adjustments but they will( or can) eventually wear out the threads on the studs from the "crimp" that holds it in place. Good poly locks on top of good studs will STAY once adjusted untill you move it. ( I.E. ARP)
5. Checking the geometry with a checking pushrod to make sure that the rockers are in the right area on top of the valve stem. And then decide if you need custom length pushrods. At least hardend ones if you need guide plates.
As far as getting the stud out id the grease trick is a way around but it might be more trouble than its worth. Dont forget to plug the oil return holes at the either end of the head with something and use a vacume to make sure all the chips are gone. Personaly Id let the machine shop do that for you if you decide to do the suggestions Ive mentioned.
As far as cost at this point you probably looking at around 400 to 500 to get everything done.
I know its more than you thought originaly. But it can save some grief later.
good luck


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71 Pinto,5.0 Roller block,B303,1.7 Rockers,Crane beehives'68 302 portednpolished heads. Cut n re-welded,coated Must II headers,Rpm Airgap,Holley 570,Msd dist steel gear,Crane HI6
"The MONEY PIT"

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 71hotrodpinto on 6/7/06 10:44am ]</font>
 

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You never said, or I didn't see it, are these the factory pressed in studs or threaded studs? If pressed in studs, pull the heads and get ARP threaded studs installed. If a threaded stud, be safe and removed the head and have it removed. If it is a threaded stud, either they're of low quality, (cheap) or something is hitting and breaking them. You need to find the reason it broke and fix it. Factory pressed in studs aren't good over 275# spring pressure. They'll either pull out or breakoff.
 
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