Sorry , hit the wrong button.....just had my C4 rebuilt today..shop charged $260... bands, seals etc (I supplied shift kit), my buddy paid about the same in nov. i would guess $300-350 includes price for trans iself would be a start
Like the guy above me said, stock C-4's don't fetch a whole lot. A lot of us on this board are builders (or taught by one) and can buy cores for about 50$ from a yard and 37$ paper/rubber/friction kit later have the c-4 up and running.
What makes a c-4 special is the "goodies" it has.
How about a hardened input shaft? Made of Vasco or 4340 or Hy-tuff?
A full manual valve body?
Machined front planetary, rear ring gear, and rear drum to make it a full roller (using TH-350 pump stator support needle bearings)?
Deep pan? JW SFI bell? H (or PA Super) intermediate servo?
Give all the info you can so a potential buyer can get a good feel for what he's getting.
someone needs to teach me cause my dad and i just rebuilt a 65 C4 and used a basic rebuild kit that was recommended on this post and now it runs worse than it did before. we used one of those tranny rebuild videos for instruction. guys in my area want to charge $675-$800 for a stock rebuild. Ive seen them in other areas for $350 but then there is shipping.
Buy the Haynes manual for rebuilding Ford transmissions. I got mine at Autozone for around 12$
Try to get a 70&up unit to build. They come with the 26 spline shaft, smaller "jelly bean" holes in the forward drum, and have more shift kits offered for them. I would recommend a full manual valve body personally.
Find a builder to teach you how to "air check" the transmission. The book talks about this but doesn't really show good pictures on how to do it.
You can air check the drums by mounting them on the pump and using air at about 25-40psi to see how well the clutch pack comes on when air is applied. This will check how well the rubber seals and metal sealing rings are doing their jobs. You blow the air into two different holes in the pump to air check the two drums.
Air check the servo's by using the air blower (with rubber tip) and blowing into the case holes that would normally line up with the valve body. If the seals are good the band will come on and you will only hear a minimal ammount of air leak-by.
The air essentially takes the place of tranny fluid and if the seals are good enough to be activated by 25-40psi of air with minimal air leakage, then those same seals will do a fine job at holding fluid pressure and applying the clutches and bands.
Good luck and don't give up, it took me quite a few times before I was able to get my C-4 to where it is now. As HP goes up, the next weak link in a c-4 likes to make itself known!