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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a transgo kit for a C-4 mostly street use but will see time at the track. I all ready installed a B&M shift kit the one that gives you two stages RV and street / strip I went with the S/S and I'm running a 3000 stall (I hope) converter.

Is there anything I should look out for while I'm in there? I have only rebuilt one trany so I'm kind of green when it comes to transmissions.

Thanks for all the help.

I wonder where we would be if Ford Muscle was around 30 years ago!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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A good quality kit with the good steels and clutchs would be a start. then making sure the clutch packs have .025-.050 clearance in them. the bands aren't burnt. making sure you put the ring sealing rings on the pump in the right places (the large ones go to the engine side of the pump). You don't nick any seals as you put the clutch packs together. After getting it back together less the valve body, run air checks. replace any thrust washers that are excessively worn. replace the pump bushing with one for a C6. Take come sand paper and break the glaze on the froward drum where the intermediate band engages. make sure you replace the seals in the drums on the pistons (two seals in each drum). yadda yadda yadda.

but you can do it, just check things as you go and don't be in a hurry. as you take the parts out, stack them as the come out (bushings/thrust washers too). You will need to make a tool or buy one to take the piston out of one of the drums. Also you will need horseshoe snap ring pliers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm sorry I thought is was a Transgo kit but it's not, it's a .......Transtar Transmission Kit
Deluxe Transmission Overhaul Kits Include: Transtech paper and rubber kit with sealing rings, seals, new steels (not tubled) and Raybestos friction clutches, adjustable modulator, front band, filter and popular bushings and washers.

Anything else I need?


Thanks I print all the info I get and use it while diving into the trans.
 

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That should do it. I used the exact same kit in my Falcon C4 and it has over 1000 trouble free 1/4 mile passes behind a 351W.The Transgo Shift Reprogamming Kit cost more than the rebuild kit. You should find a good shop manual or the trans manual for a C5 will work also. Just look for any obvious worn thrust washers or bushings and take your time and you'll be fine. Lots of good info available here,just ask and someone is sure to help.
 

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A couple of years ago, I picked up a Haynes techbook on Ford Transmissions (C3,C4,C5,C6 &AOD) and it has been a bible here. If your local parts guy can get it for you it may help a lot.
Haynes #10355
ISBN#1 56392 170 7
 

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Here's a couple of other tips...
Always replace the rear ext housing bush
Always replace rear servo piston
Check the sealing rings on the stator support side clearance.Some later c4's+c5 take a wider sealing ring.
Keep endfloat to a minimum
Closely check the fwd clutch disc spring for cracks
Check the cooler passages in the case are clear and the cooler passage in the stator support is clear too.
Closely examine front planetaries for wear on the rollers + pins.
Check the little wafer springs from the one-way clutch,these are cheap to replace.
That should do for now...
 

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The economical kit might work for a mild application but for a 460 I would think at a minimum that an extra friction be added to both clutches and a "H" or aftermarket intermediate servo be used. Good info from the trans gurus on the C4 build level post.
 

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64Tbolt,the c5 pump doesn't have a checkball fitted.You caught me out.What i mean is you can remove the ball + spring from a c4 to upgrade to c5 specs.This is a popular mod to improve the oilflow in the cooler circuit..
The 'H' servo will give you more holding force for the intermediate band.A lot of the aftermarket servo's are copies of the 'H'
 

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The biggest problem I had was with the endfloat. Local tranny shop guys would look at me funny when I asked them questions. They said a C4 was considered obsolete. Dont know if i would trust them with my tranny.

Ok, back to the topic. Heres a quote from gregest:

"The selection of the #1 plastic thrust has nothing to do with the #2 washer for the end float.
What you need to do is work out what #2 (small washer) which you've already done ,to get the end float correct.
To select the #1 plastic thrust you setup the fwd and hi/rev clutch hub standing on the bench with the hi/rev hub on top.
Now take the front pump and stator assy with your selected #2 washer held in place with vaseline or assy lube ,and lower it into the hubs.NOTE---there is no #1 on the pump at this stage.
With it all sitting together ,you can work out you #1 by slipping it between the hi/rev hub and the back face of the pump.It should just be a snug fit.

I hope that makes sense.It can be confusing but once you work it out it's easy."

My shop manual covered the #2, but didnt really say anything about the #1. For the #2 you just put a dial indicator on the imput shaft and measure the play.

If I can do it, you should have no problems at all
 

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Walt: Your discription of how to find the right thickness washers makes much more sense that the shop manuals I have. They say to replace both washers in pairs. I.E. if #2 is .060 then #1 should also be .060. This threw me off as I could get the correct end play with a .060 #2 but #1 required a thicker one.
 

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Thats was a quote from Greg, not me. Just making sure he gets the credit.

My #1 was also quite a bit thicker than the #2.
 

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On 2002-04-12 13:40, dragman64 wrote:

My #1 was also quite a bit thicker than the #2.
More info than I needed to hear. What you do in the bathroom is your business but a number 1 is supposed to be much more runny than your number two
 

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Dragman64, nice tip on setting the #1 thrust washer thickness, have to write it on the wall for the next time.
Wonder if someone as computer challenged as me could put together a web page with all this C-4 info? Oh well will have to wait, racing season is almost here.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I hope T-Bolt is getting all this!! He's coming over Sunday to help with the rebuild. I know when I get in there I'll be OK I just need to put the names of all the hubs and such to the real part so it makes sense.

Thanks......
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, it took T-bolt and I 7 hours to rebuild the C4 trans make a motor mount and install the trans. Shifts like a champ really pounds second gear even third is very stiff. It was raining so trying to find the actual stall was hard plus it has new brakes. I think when it's not raining and the brakes are worn in a little I'll have a better idea on the stall. It's was bought as a 3000 stall but it seams to stall around 2600 or so. Plus I need exhaust I ran it up the street and back with open headers (I love that) I think I put some eyeballs into some windows. Their just going to have to get use to it.

Thanks for all your help. You to T-bolt

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 393Clevor on 4/14/02 9:46am ]</font>
 
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