welcome to the site You will find many helpful people here and I am one of them if you would like a bunch of info on the c4 roller bearing install send me and email address to send it to and I will send it right away as I already tried the email address you have in your profile and it did not work. Also must be a server that will support large attachments or it will take several emails to get all of it OK. Good Luck hope to hear from you soon.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Tim R on 6/14/02 5:05am ]</font>
Strokerman,you will be VERY sastified with your JPT purchase.I bought a C4 "rollerized" transmission from Jim several years ago and can report nothing but good comments about the transmission and Jim Paquet.Happy Motoring.Livermore Dave.
I'm alsmost done with all the machine work to make all mine 100% roller with no thrusts washers at all. Small Honda roller for the end of stator(#2 thrust), C-6 roller for foreward drum(after kidney holes were welded and machined), TH-350 roller between back of case and sprag. All other roller positions and specs are in the archives. I have 4 C-4s all having the same machine work done to them. I have around $1200 in machining for roller thrust done so far and another $150-$200 to go. The rear planetary is the hardes to machine because of the hardened planet gear pins needing machined in the alum planetary housing. It breaks the H8 bits every time it hits one of the 3 hardened pins. PA asked me what bearing or number on the bearing of the Honda for #2 position but I don't know yet. They are trying to do the same to the new Super Comp C-4s. I picked the used roller out of a pile of Honda trans parts at the local trans rebuild shop. Still can't find the exact position in which trans it came from but it's the perfect size. so far 10 positions in my C-4 have rollers now. It will all be documented with pictures and specs when I have everything machined. PA will soon be using a roller on the foreward drum also but I don't know if they'll weld the holes in it or not. My cases need to be machine yet for the rollers at the back behind the sprag, the #2 on the stator for the small bearing I have, and the foreward drums for the C-6 rollers. Then I'm totally done with machining for a totally full roller C-4. 4 trannies worth of parts being done. Everything else is done except for those 3 positions mentioned. I'm paying $30 per hour cash for the machining. One for a friend, one for my dad, and 2 for me(not including the PA Super Comp I already have but it will be machined for the rollers that it doesn't have at those 3 positions mentioned so it will be double throwdown bad ass too
All the info will be given to F/M for an artical on how to make a full roller C-4 with many pictures and all the specs including the other specs from my PA Super Comp. I can honestly say after buying all the components from PA and having the machine work done for the rollers locally, you can buy a Super Comp C-4 with life time warranty for about the same money. That's what I found out. More info later when it's all machined, until then I'll continue to record all specs of work in progress.
Great to hear that some of you are using the info.
89 coupe It is sure to bad you have to pay someone to do the machining for you as without the cost of machining the parts the bearings themselves are cheap. I am sure interested in all of the new bearings that you have figured out ways to put in there and can't wait to see how well it all works out for you. Make sure you keep us all posted OK. How does PA feel about you sharing the info about these mods here or haven't you told them you were doing that.
Kent did you find a source for shims to set your endplay? I realize shims could be made to do the job but it would be nice to buy them somewhere.
I'm also looking forward to your article. I rollerized 3 C-4's after I got all the info you guys have been sharing.
My brothers car is faster but mine is slower, that cam choice is looking really bad.
Mario, I did find roller shims of many different thicknesses for the TH-350 pump roller bearing. I bought all the trans shop had here locally and now I feel totally comfortable with rollerizing #1 thrust since endplay can now be set. The machine shop quoted $10 per shim to make and I was about to have them make some but luckily while looking for the rollers for #2 and the foreward drum, I mentioned having the machine shop going to make them and the guy at the trans shop said he had what I need. Here are the part #s on the bags of shims I bought:
The rest were very thin or he was out of them so I didn't get them. They are .20 cents a piece and much cheaper than having them made. They fit perfectly too. The C-6 roller for the foreward drum was either Gregaust's or Tim R's Idea and it will work but the roller needs to have the two small tangs ground off but that's easy. The tough one to identify will be that tiny Honda roller which the input shaft barely clears the ID with enough room for play in case the unput shaft bushings in the stator supports get worn so the bearing will work even with some input shaft bearing wear. About $75 per case to machine inside for roller between case and sprag. Might be able to get cheaper per unit like $35-$45 each if I bring all 5 cases in to be machined which I probably will. One case is my extra pan fill case which bell mounts to case. When I talked to PA this last time, Mike said my lifetime warranty will still be valid even with the 3 extra rollers I'm putting in for the foreward drum(with welding the drum also), end of stator support on #2 thrust, and between case and sprag assy. They will still honor the warranty. That sounds great to me. I asked if anything is done to the Super Comp cases or if they are stock C-4 cases because I ordered over $1100 worth of stuff to build another Super Comp for a friend and he said all the cases are unmodified. They don't need modified anywhere except for a small hole behind the stator at the case. That's it. I wish I had a lathe of my own so this wouldn't cost soo much and I could machine lots more parts and sell them much cheaper than PA but I don't even have any friends here that own or have access to a lathe so I'm screwed once again being here in NM. Mike also said the main difference between the Super Pump and a standard stock pump is the #1 roller thrust but he did say something about the Super Pump boosting pressure a little more and cooling circuit modified but I see no difference between my Super Pump and a regular C-5 pump other than the roller thrust. all the passages are the same and the gears are just stock ones. no internal main passage mods or casting cleanup either. Teflon rings, new pump gears, and machine for roller is the only differences I found. One important thing I asked was what endplay should a Super Comp C-4 have and he said .038" which is what mine had and I thought it was too loose. I was going to set mine up with .010"-.015" endplay but not anymore. .006"-.008" per clutch on the foreward drum and .010" per clutch on the direct drum is what should be on the Super Comp. Mike was more free with info but I had to ask in detail the questions first otherwise he would give the most vague answers but I got the answers I've needed for a long time.
I still don't have a good digital camera and my digital camcorder sucks for taking pictures. I will have one soon for sure for the C-4 mods pics. The way I see it, Mike545 is totally right. Get the rollerized Comp and you then have a Super Comp minus the transbrake valvebody. $1400 is tough to beat.
One more thing about that Honda roller thrust for #2 is it has a small enough outside diameter so only a little elongating of the lube feed hole needs to be made so the hole isn't blocked and that will allow the fluid to pass thru and feed oil to the roller on the foreward drum C-6 roller. Otherwise the fluid hole is blocked and both bearings will be starved for oil.
Kent I am curious is the Honda bearing you are using for #2 thrust a captive needle bearing (like turbo 350 one piece assembly) or is it just a torrington needle with flat races in front of and behind it? I hope this makes sense. I have part numbers for a torrington needle with flat races that will work also if that is what it is, then we have part numbers that will work and I can send them to you OK.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Tim R on 6/14/02 5:19am ]</font>