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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok i dropped my motor in a couple weeks ago 302, mild buildup. the c-6 i built about a year ago and it sat in my garage covered up. i used b&m kit to rebuild it. i checked everything made sure it was good before i dropped it in. put about a qt. to 2 qts. in the convertor before i installed it. filled the tranny w/ type f fluid. now i do not have a driveshaft hooked up, and don t know if that makes a difference. the fluid is a little low on the stick, but i would think it has enough in it, maybe not. if i put more fluid in it runs out the tail shaft cause i don t have a slip yoke yet. anyway, it goes into revesre fine (can see the output shaft spin, and feel it engage. when i put it in drive it doesn t do anything at idle, when i bring up the rpm it will engage and kinda bogs the motor down, keep bringing the rpm up and the speedo goes to about 20 to 25mph and the to zero the shifts into second and it boggs out so bad it almost kills the motor, then disengages. what is wrong? i thought maybe causea of the fluid, but i had a tranny before aod, had no fluid in it and the motor would just rev and the truck wouldn t move. i put it together as per b&ms specs and a haynes ford tranny manual. please help! i hope i don t have to pull it back out!
 

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Without knowing what you did when you did it.

It's almost impossible to voice an opinion.

There are too many variables.
 

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what about the easy one. is the shifter linkage right? does it do if if you manually shift the transmission with the linkage off. try that first. but you need to get a yoke on there and make sure its full. i've noticed they are finiky about there fluid level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yes the linkage is correct, but what do you mean? between gears or something? this is what i have come up with so far..... a couple people have told me that maybe the intermediate band is to tight, didn t check this yet though. i talked to a local tranny shop and the mechanic said to check the manual linkage to make sure that it is engaged to the valve body right, and i didn t get to check that either. he also said that i might have put in the one way clutch backwards. he told me to check by put a pair of vice grips on the shaft and try to spin it in drive, it should spin counter clock wise and not clock wise at all! he said it would spin clock wise on the inside of the tranny and counter clockwise on the out side, nad i did check that it is ok! so this is what i am guessing the tranny internals are ok, it is some thing in the valve body not telling the tranny to do the right thing. i really hope i don t have to pull this thing. ijust put it in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Sounds like a valve body leak to me. Could be any number of things really (stuck valve in the valve body, modulator not working right, etc). C6's are GREAT transmissions but when they give problems...they're a real SOB to figure them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
where would it leak? is there suppost to be a gasket between the tranny and the valve body? cause i ll tell you i didn t put on in. maybe that is it. that would be freakin awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
and also i was just looking at my b&m instructions and as per b&m they said not to put a gasket between the plates in the valve body either. is that something i should look into?
 

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There is no gasket between the valve body and transmission.
When you say you built the tranny - does that mean that you took it all the way apart and replaced the clutches and seals or just that you did a valve body kit modification?
Is this tranny new to this car?
If it is then you need to adjust the linkage. If you didn't adjust the bands then you need to do that too. You should put the driveline in and test it with the tranny completely filled with ATF. On the positive side, you are using the right ATF when you use type "F".
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i hope so, i talked to another tranny shop today, he said something about seals being bad, but he wouldn t tell me how to fix it, and he wanted nothing to do with fixing it for me, that tells me that place probably isn t any good. i am gonna check the intermediate band, and if that doesn t do it i am gonna go over the shifter adjustment again. it was completely rebuilt paul and it also has the valve body kit too. if none of that works i am gonna pull the valve body.
 

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Most of the commercial shops don't deal with modified trannys - if it is not stock they don't want anything to do with it.Checking the valve body is a good idea. Making sure the valves all move freely and that only the balls that are supposed to be there are in the proper place. There is also a flat disc made of rubber and I think that it is supposed to come out too - check the instructions that came with the kit. Make sure that the throttle pressure limit valve and spring are in place under the filter tab. If you don't see anything wrong in the valve body then try turning the output shaft while watching the innards working (before you reinstall the valve body) Look for lock rings from the clutches out of place. and the engagement of the drums. If you don't see anything wrong then it might be a broken sealing ring on the stator support that might allow oil into both clutches under pressure. That would cause the symptoms that you are having. It doesn't happen often but it is possible.
Paul
 

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Hey Paul it's a C6 .. The rubber disc and pressure limit spring wont apply in this case. Sorry to pick up on this ,just so no one gets confused..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yeah i was gonna say, there was no spring if i remember right. i am gonna pull the vb this weekend and see what is going on! let you guys know then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well i still can t figure out what is wrong still! i am gonna take it to the one tranny shop and they are gonna look it over for me. thanks for are the replies and help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sure thing!, the shop i am taking it to has been around since the late '20s and are the best tranny shop around town. the guy there was like in his '50s and said he would figure it out for me. so i hope so cause after this i don t know, i got a couple more months till the shows and racing season starts. so we will see!
 

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"and also i was just looking at my b&m instructions and as per b&m they said not to put a gasket between the plates in the valve body either. is that something i should look into"


I don't know how B&M get away with this information but you must install a separator plate gasket in the valve body.
It's the same as not using a head gasket.
 
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