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Discussion Starter #1
I need thicker #1 and #2 thrust washers to get my endplay in check. I called my local Ford parts department, and he said he needed the #s off the tag on the tranny. Well that tag is long gone. But he said if I can come up with part #s, that would work too. So anyone have the part #s of the stuff I need?

endplay measured to be .073"

#1 washer is .073" thick and #2 is .055" thick
Not sure how thick they get, but it will have to be at least .100", right?

And one of the springs on the 1 way clutch is broke, is that something I can get new?

This is all for a 1970 26 spline pan fill C4.

Or does anyone have any bullshit #s I can give him for the tag? Of course the #s would have to be for this style of C4.

Need any more information?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh and how can you tell when the thrust washers are worn too far?
 

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You would be better off dealing with a trans shop. The selectives are usually color coded(green-.072",neutral.089",black.106",yellow.123&quot
But that is not always the case. If you go through a trans shop you get the thrust washer kit and all the selectives cheap. You can also get your spring and roller kit too. To tell in the thrust washers are worn they will wear the oil grooves down.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So if i use the yellow .123" that will bring the endplay down to .023" right? Is that acceptable for a tranny that is going to get beat up a little?
 

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You do know the end float is adjusted using the small #2 thrust then the larger plastic#1 washer is selected to be a snug fit between the rev/hi drum and front pump.
The #1 washers come in
.115-.123"
.138-.140"
as well as .020"+.030" shims that can go behind the plastic shim.
As for the #2 thrust you want to get down to about .010"-.015"..023" is within specs but i prefer less.
The #2 washers come in .090-.092 + .107-.109. as well as the .020+.030" shims also.
The 107 thrust would get you down to around .020" end float.What you can do to get a little less is to use the 90-92 with a .020"shim would get you to around .016".
You then select the #1 thrust to suit.I have only listed the sizes close to what you'll need.
As for the one way clutch ,replace all the rollers and springs,they're cheap.

http://www.bulkparts.com/MM007.ASP?pageno=346

It takes a little mucking about but attention to get the correct endfloat i believe makes for a better job.I hope i haven't made this too confusing.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: gregaust on 3/10/02 9:42am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: gregaust on 3/10/02 9:48am ]</font>
 

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Also ,all C4 thrust washers are the same so a model number shouldn't be needed.The only diff is some of the early models don't have the little locate lug on the back of the #1 plastic washer.H-T-H
 

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When I did my C4 tranny last month, this is what I paid for a thrust washer kit (came with all the washers and 2 of each selective thrust washer #1and2) and overunning spring and roller kit at the trans shop I deal with: thrust washer kit.....$10 bucks and overunning spring kit.......$5 and this is canadian.

Forget the parts guy at Ford.....deal with a trans parts shop, they'll know what you're looking for and probably for a much better price.
 

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<font color="blue">Just bought parts to rebuild my C4. I got a complete alto red clutch rebuild kit with flexible kevlar band and koelene steels, with a 5 clutch high drum setup. A 6 pinion planetary and a complete rollerized setup which included the machined parts and the bearings. Also got a reverse pattern manual valve body. They threw in a hardened input shaft for free
The tranny guy said the same thing about endplay, he said any tranny shop could get me a parts kit for $10-$15. I do have a question though, What is the correct procedure to check endplay? And, when adjusting the band, if I don't have an inch pound wrench, can I snug it down and then back it off the 1-3/4 turns??? Thanks guys for all the info. Gregaust...I received the e-mail pic's last week, Thank You....Rich</font>
 

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Rich,to check the end play you really need a dial gauge.Set it up so the the dial gauge pin is sitting on the end of the input shaft.I have a special attachment to do this but a magnetic base would work to.With the v.b removed put a screw driver between the back of the input shell and the rear planet set and lever forward.Get your measurement and work out your shims as above.
Better still i just sent you a pic.
For the front band you can snug up the adjuster firm and back it off.A lot of guys only go back 1 turn though..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Would only backing off 1 turn be bad for street use? It wont shorten the life, will it?
 

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I am wondering where you can purchase the .020 and .030 shims? All the selective thrust washers are available from many sources, but not the shims mentioned. I tried bulkparts web site and didn't see the shims just the selective thrust washers. Please advise!


You do know the end float is adjusted using the small #2 thrust then the larger plastic#1 washer is selected to be a snug fit between the rev/hi drum and front pump.
The #1 washers come in
.115-.123"
.138-.140"
as well as .020"+.030" shims that can go behind the plastic shim.
As for the #2 thrust you want to get down to about .010"-.015"..023" is within specs but i prefer less.
The #2 washers come in .090-.092 + .107-.109. as well as the .020+.030" shims also.
The 107 thrust would get you down to around .020" end float.What you can do to get a little less is to use the 90-92 with a .020"shim would get you to around .016".
You then select the #1 thrust to suit.I have only listed the sizes close to what you'll need.
As for the one way clutch ,replace all the rollers and springs,they're cheap.

404 - Not Found

It takes a little mucking about but attention to get the correct endfloat i believe makes for a better job.I hope i haven't made this too confusing.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: gregaust on 3/10/02 9:42am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: gregaust on 3/10/02 9:48am ]</font>
 
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