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Re: C4

I ordered the adaptors for the coolant lines and they work great. I installed a Finned transmission oil cooler but dont know how well it will work since i haven't fired the motor yet.
 

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Danford- I discovered that if you ask to "grab" that switch off an AOD, the yard says- You can have it once you buy the whole trans!
so, its not that easy to get one.
You can't use 2 generic ends? If I recall, the 2 poles on the trans are just flat poles, couldn;t you run 2 wires, with female ends & plug em on the trans switch?
 

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I was a little worried about adding to a 7 year old thread but I see activity from within the last year so here goes...

So the car is:
  • 1967 Mustang convertible
  • C-code replaced by a built 351W (estimating 425hp/425tq)
  • C4 replaced by a 1993 AOD from a 5.0 Mustang that has also been "built"
  • 2,800RPM Stall
  • Holley 750 using the Lokar bracket and TV cable
  • Factory shifter (P-R-N-D-2-1) so I have no "1" on the AOD
  • 20,000 pound "RV" oil cooler in front of radiator
  • AN fittings and braided steel hoses
  • Fluid filled pressure gauge that reads 0-100PSI but also shows 2 pound increments
I have mine set up opposite from the OP in that the shifter and TV levers are upside down but the inputs are correct. The trans has solid input shafts (to eliminate a known weak part of the AOD) and a shift kit with an aftermarket (B&M I think) valve body, that is about all I know since Transmissions are not something I fully understand.

So I adjusted everything as specified by Lokar (TV pressure and cable-tension etc.) and the car drove poorly, shifting 1-2 then 2-3 at very low throttle and not coming back down to 1st gear. So I found/read this article, followed advice as much as possible and it is MUCH better but still needs some work and tuning.

I've got the little acorn nut with allen screw locked down and am trying to make final adjustments using the conical nuts on the Lokar cable to make tiny adjustments on the tension trying to get it at the 2-4PSI at idle as recommended by the OP. Sitting there at 0 PSI @ idle I begin adding some pre-load by turning the threaded tube and the pressure doesn't move, turn a little more and nothing, turn a little more and it jumps from 0 to 11 with just the slightest possible change. I think with some luck and multiple attempts I could get the number nearer to 5 but is it supposed to be THAT sensitive? I'm talking about a 1/16-1/8 turn of the nut here, the cable movement must be less tha 5/100th of an inch. I cannot see that degree of sensitivity being correct or normal.

What should I do? I'm worried about burning up the Trans just with small 1,000 yard test drives. Is 10-12PSI at idle too much? The brakes easily hold it back and from a dead stop the car rolls forward slowly (as opposed to speeding away) when I lift off the brake.
 

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A little extra line pressure at idle won't hurt, and will firm the shifts a bit while holding the clutches better. It might 'bang' a bit on high-idle cold shifts. Up to you on the feel. However, I would keep a close eye on it for a while, as the adjustment should not be that sensitive.

David
 

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Thank you so much for the reply. I know very little about what happens inside an automatic. Is there a certain line pressure at idle I should be worried about? What is it that causes the "you will destroy the AOD in a very short distance" claims that I am warned about over and over?
 

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While you want the correct pressure spec's of course, a bit too high is less dangerous than too low. The pressure is what keeps the clutches applied and not slipping under power. With adjustment that sensitive, it would be easy to go too low unintentionally, or with cable stretch, wear, etc. When I get back off the road, I'll check some sources to find the typical cause for a sensitive TV adjustment, if I can. In the meantime, you can try some web searches, and check your local library reference section for an AOD manual or model manual with AOD stuff in it. They often have them, or can order them free to loan-out, or have online access to paid reference sites free for local residents. Good resource, and I have been there making copies many times.

David
 

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I'm having my C-4 taken out for a AOD swap. I've been looking in Summit to see if they sell a trans yoke for the AOD with 1350 ujoints. My old drive shaft uses 1350 ujoints and I was told that the AOD uses a different size ujoint and different size output shaft. I'm confused,Summit has a yoke listed that fit the C-4, T5,AOD and says it has a 28 tooth spline that fit all of them.Does any of you know what the spline count and Dia of the AOD is.Will the yoke from my C-4 work on the AOD? Roger
 

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GTA Roger, I bought/installed the AOD about 7 years ago , I think we used the C-4 trans yoke, but its been so long, I;m guessing.
If no one pipes up who knows for sure, Look up/google Lentech Automatics, Len at Lentech is a Ford trans guru, I bought the AOD valve body from them. Just call Len & ask them what yoke/spline count you need.
I;ve since switched out the AOD for a built C-4/gear vendor so I can't even check my car for you!
Good Luck
Roger #2
 

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Thanks, I just got back from the trans guys place.Your right ,the yoke from my C-4 fits the Aod trans. Now I.m waiting for him to let me know if my starter from the set up with the 157 tooth flex plate will fit the AOD with the 164 tooth flex plate. I've seen starters listed on Summit with a 3/4 in off set. not sure if that is what I need. I have a new high torque starter that was taken off the C-4 set up.So far every thing has gone pretty good and I can't wait to try it out with the OD.I still have the 4.11 in it. Roger
 

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Found out the starter I have will work. The trans mount I have says it will fit a C-4 or AOD. Well it doesn't,The mount had to be cut and rewelded,Roger
 

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I got the car back from the trans guy a few weeks ago. It snowed on the day I picked it up,so I had it flat bedded home. After I got it home I looked it over real good. Two of the top bell housing bolts are missing,and there is not enough room to get them to go into the bolt holes. The Lokar gas peddle splines are stripped out.The TV cable doesn't return all the way back after the gas peddle is pressed. Since I got it back I have put a return spring on the tv cable lever.I replaced the gas peddle with a Steel Lokar gas peddle. The reason the gas peddle stripped out was the tv cable level is to hard to pull. Some thing is wrong with the Value body or the lever going into the side of the trans. I just got a new Broader Value body that has the modified shift pattern and is set for very firm shifts.I found a local trans shop to install the VB for me.I don't want the guy who installed my trans to touch my car again.I don't trust him at all. He had the car for two months and this is what I got back.The guy at the trans shop told me it was more that likely the VB thats causing the problems of the TV cable level and the problem that it will not shift into overdrive.After I have it fixed I plan on giving guy who installed my trans a written list of the **** ups that he did and a copy of the bill for having it repaired.If he doesn't like that I'll have my lawyer send him a letter informing him he is being sued .I wish I had ordered the trans from Summit and had it installed here by the shop by my house.But from the reviews I read CTI doesn't backup their trans to good. Roger
 

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Sounds like a lazy ass mechanic, keep the parts you take off to show them stripped pedal,etc.
For those 2 top bolts that hit the firewall when you trying to install em, i just cut them a little shorter, so they cleared the firewall, still enough threads to tighten em up. I can recall having to much tension on the cable, but, installed the AOD almost 10 years ago now & i don't want to guess at the issues.
If you are worried about cooking your trans, I would call Lentech & talk to Len.
I know when i was looking to buy the Ford OD trans, i talked to all the usual suspects, TCI, Baumman, etc & Lentech was the only shop who made me feel like they gave a damn about my issues, & this was before i bought their valve body.
Sorry, not much help
good luck
 

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Thanks for your advice . I plan on making two holes in the fire wall so I can pass the bolts through and put plugs in the holes. I have since did some research on some one local to do the value body install. I found a guy not to far from home that comes highly recommended from some of the guys in my car club. I spoke with him yesterday and feel very comfortable that he knows how to do the repairs right.I plan on letting him do all the repairs to get my car up and running properly. The only thing he's not doing is the trans crossmember. The crossmember is cutup and rewelded very sloppy. I'm going to have my nephew at Teem Z build me a new tubular crossmember.Right now I'm waiting for the weather to break and the streets to clear up of the snow and salt.I went into the garage yesterday and fired up the car,I can't wait for spring.Since I retired I've been spending a couple months of the winter in Florida.This year We stayed home because I was to lazy to make the plans to go.Next year I will not make the same mistake. Roger
 

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I have had a local trans shop install a Broader VB. I got to test drive it. I really like the way the trans shifts.I bought the VB that has the shift pattern modified . It will hold 1st 2nd manually and 3rd as long as you keep the gas pedal floored.It will not shift into OD until you let off the gas . It will not shift into OD at full throttle,that way you will not blow out your OD.It shifts very firm and breaks the tires lose in all three gears. Now I could use some better tires.Roger
 
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