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Hey all...

Recently I had my automatic 1966 HiPo automatic transmission out of the car when it was being restored. We had a separate mechanic working on the transmission from us when doing the engine detailing and clean up. Once back on the car we had a ton of fluid leaking from the pan and from the band adjustment lock nuts. Now I have no problem redoing the bands and the pan from all the research and help I've gotten. But the question I have is related to filling the transmission back up with fluids.

1) The attached image is what the guy used to fill the transmission (looks like cheap stuff, but I don't really know), this is not Type F, and from everything I've read, most people suggest staying with the older Type F on an older "not rebuilt" transmission. Or is what he put in fine?

2) The reason I ask is if I am changing to Type F, I assume I completely need to drain the entire transmission, including the Torque Converted as well, or can I skip this step and leave what's in there and have a subtle mix?

3) If I do have to completely drain and refill the entire transmission, is the method below the full sequence for firing up the car and adding fluids when it's been completely drained? I read a post somewhere that said not to completely drain the torque converter because of "shock to the seals and system"... Is this true?

"If you just do the pan drop then you will need 5 quarts.
If you do the convertor and pan then you will need 9 quarts.


1. Place the gasket on the pan and install (tighten to spec's don't over tighten).
2. Pour 5 quarts of type 'F' into the filler tube (check for leaks).
3. Start the car, slowly shift the shifter all the way down and up a few times (pause at every gear). You will not feel it going into gear, keep the car running and check for leaks, add some more fluid.
4. Try shifting again this time it will go into gear return the shifter to park and top up the transmission to full on the dip stick (don't over fill) remember to check for leaks. If no leaks take it for a test spin around the block and park it and shut it off and once again check for leak. If no leak re-install the inspection plate.
When you buy the gasket they usually come in a small box and the gasket is twisted everywhere which makes it hard to install. A good tip is to flatten it out the night before, put it between two big books and put a weight on top."




Any help or opinions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance...

Jason
 

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I use that Dex 3 oil a lot in C4's . It is fine and won't hurt anything. I wouldn't be changing it out .
General consensus is the type F has different friction characteristics and may give a firmer shift.
No doubt the 1966 transmission has been freshened at some stage ?
 

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I use that Dex 3 oil a lot in C4's . It is fine and won't hurt anything. I wouldn't be changing it out .
General consensus is the type F has different friction characteristics and may give a firmer shift.
No doubt the 1966 transmission has been freshened at some stage ?
Thanks for the info Greg, this saves me having to drain the torque converter.

One question though. While I have the pan off, would you inspect or change anything else while I'm in there? Someone suggested on another forum that I should replace the Shifter linkage bar seals up inside near the throttle body, but I didn't see any leaks... The transmission is not coming off the car, as you remember, I'm resetting the band adjustment to the specifications you gave me previously since I have to redo the locking nuts because of leaks. Also, this was a low mileage car when I received it, the transmission works very well, but I'm 95% sure it has never been updated or rebuilt, it's all original. They transmission when we cleaned it up looks brand new... we did replace the neutral safety switch with an NOS one, but that's that's pretty much the only thing we did while we had it off the car because it shifted so well.

Thanks,

Jason
 

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If it was all ok before i'd prob not disturb it too much. It's rare the shift seal actually leaks . Do the converter and rear seals , definitely fit a new kickdown seal . Pan back on and fill er up :)
 

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If it was all ok before i'd prob not disturb it too much. It's rare the shift seal actually leaks . Do the converter and rear seals , definitely fit a new kickdown seal . Pan back on and fill er up :)
Well, unfortunately the transmission is on the car, so redoing the converter seal isn't going to happen. Can probably do the rear seal though, that's easy enough. But with redoing the kickdown seal, I assume I have to remove the entire valve body... Nothing is leaking from the selector on the transmission, so do I still do it... I assume I can do this (looks easy enough), but don't want to bite off more than I can chew if you know what I mean... Is there anything I need to be aware of removing the valve body? Should I replace the screen while I'm in there??

Also, it looks like according to shop manual that the torque specs for installing the valve body and screen is somewhere between 40-55 lb/ft...

Anyway, Think I got it, but just wanted to make sure...

Thanks,

Jason
 

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Nothing needs to be pulled out to change the kickdown seal . It is just the small outer seal and is a common leak , only need remove the outer lever to change it. Could do a rear seal if it is leaking , if not leave it and run it :)
 

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Also, it looks like according to shop manual that the torque specs for installing the valve body and screen is somewhere between 40-55 lb/ft...
NO! Be careful with the torque values, and those are INCH·LB. A list of C4 torque values are here. Although you may not be doing the valve body now, others who see this might get the wrong idea and strip or break stuff.
;)
David
 

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NO! Be careful with the torque values, and those are INCH·LB. A list of C4 torque values are here. Although you may not be doing the valve body now, others who see this might get the wrong idea and strip or break stuff.
;)
David

Yikes, thanks for pointing that out, I miss read the shop manual... got to watch out for that ;)

Thanks,

Jason
 
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