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I slid the C4 transmission back in my 68 mustang today to clean out debris in the bellhousing left by my starter which disentegrated. While trying to stab the transmission back into place, I could only get it to go about 3/4 inch from mating with the engine. I could start the top bolts but it it was taking to much torque to tighten the bolts to a flush mount. So I removed the bolts, slid the tranny back and inspected the inner and outer splines and all are clean with no dammage. Any suggestions on what is keeping the tranny from mounting flush with the block? All lines, hoses, diptick tube and cables are clear of the installation. The torque convertor, flywheel and dust plate (flexplate?) where not moved during this process. Any ideas would be appreciated. Its been about 2 and a half decades since I last pulled a C4 transmission and it didn't seem like I had this problem. But that was in the 70's. I've probably forgotten something for some reason.
Thanks!
 

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I would double check and make sure the convertor did not come out a little bit... Anything is possible.... Sometimes the convertors can be a pain to seat and other times they go right on....

Also were the convertor studs going through the flex plate as you were lining the trans up????

Double check that stuff and try again....

Good Luck, Billy
 

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Sounds like the converter slid out a little and the hub isn't seating back in the pump gear. Rotate the converter back and forth while pushing in gently and wiggling up and down. It may have to go almost a half-turn before engaging. Measure from the converter side of the flexplate to the back of the block and then from the front face of the trans to the converter surface next to a mounting stud. The second measurement has to larger than the first for the converter to be seated all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your responses. Now that you both mentioned it, the convertor did look slightly angled from looking at it from underneath. I plan on giving it another try Tuesday. At least it is up on a lift and I'm not flat on my back like it was in the old days.
 

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don't force it. If it doesn't fit the convertor isn't installed in the 3 ways it has to be. Pump drive, small input shaft and larger splined shaft. Keep rotating and wiggling it until you get all 3. It shound set back about 3/4" from the bellhousing lip.
 

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*piggy backing on this post*
had to tighten my flywheel bolts on my 77 bronco. after i lined up the torque converter and set all the bell housing bolts into the block, i cant get the engine to roll over manually to tighten the other 2 torque converter nuts! the tranny moves threw the gears and out put shaft responds.
im going to have to pull everything again huh? im starting to hate my headers! i did pull the TC to check the fluid level, but my friend who was helping me lift it set it back in place, so what didnt line up right?
thanx guys
 

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Read the previous posts in this thread and follow those instructions.
 

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Your converter is not fully seated. If you are lucky you will not have broken the front pump by forcing things together. You can remove the trans, seat the converter correctly and re-install. There should be 1 ~ 1 1/8" between the face fo the bell and the mounting ears of the converter and when installed the converter should have 1/16 or so of clearance with the flexplate - enough to wiggle the converter studs, bolts, whatever.

>the tranny moves threw the gears and out put shaft responds.
Jamming the converter has zero effect on non-power gear selection. The only thing an auto shifter does is move the manual valve in the valve body. The output shaft is not tied to the input shaft unless the engine is running, the pump is producing pressure and the trans is in drive or reverse. If you have it REALLY jammed up, then you can lock the output to the input but you've likely broken something else at that point.
 

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Yes!
If you pulled the C4 up using any force from the bolts you have probably broken the pump gears.
 
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