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Discussion Starter #21
The issue is the Shift linkage pin is in the INCORRECT slot on the Shift Pin it's self.

I've seen it happen before, loosen the linkage and place the shift linkage tip in the First slot of the Shift pin. All will be well after that.

Hmm would you mind explaining what that is exactly haha! I've never worked on this before-- are you talking about the area I have circled in this pic? I did get under and notice there was a 2nd hole (closer to the rear of the car) that this could be moved to.

My only real concern is that I have been driving the car like this for 6 months with no issues whatsoever with the transmission. It had no problem shifting in all gears, and the transmission has not been touched since I had it...Is this something that would just happen all of a sudden?

Thanks for the info.
 

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It just doesn't jump out of position.

There is a good chance the park rod is the culprit.

Remove the "E" clip from the rod and try the linkage.

I have also seen the detent spring break and cause the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
It just doesn't jump out of position.

There is a good chance the park rod is the culprit.

Remove the "E" clip from the rod and try the linkage.

I have also seen the detent spring break and cause the same thing.

Is the park rod the long curved bronze colored rod in the pics I attached?
 

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Do you see the shift pin sticking out of the valve body? The Forward side of that has a double slotted head, the INNER shift linkage arm the one that your circle is touching, the Far lower right side of that has a round end that sits in the END of that Pin in your valve body. I'm simply suggesting that it's in the wrong position on the shift plunger.
 

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Do you see the shift pin sticking out of the valve body? The Forward side of that has a double slotted head, the INNER shift linkage arm the one that your circle is touching, the Far lower right side of that has a round end that sits in the END of that Pin in your valve body. I'm simply suggesting that it's in the wrong position on the shift plunger.

But the picture does not show any of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Just give it a go and LOOK for where the shift arm touches the plunger and moves it!

Remove the valve body if you have to. simple enough
I am going out tomorrow afternoon and do what I can, but I can not say enough to you guys that this is all completely new to me, and I'm doing everything suggested as I figure out what it is thats being suggested. Everyone seems to call different parts different names, is part # 7c389 the parking rod that Stuarta is talking about? Or do I need to drop the valve body to get any answers?

Feandgoingbroke-- Im just not exactly sure what your asking me to do, could you elaborate?

I do appreciate you guys taking the time to help me out!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Greg is Correct...

New Feller, Remove the 6 or 8 bolts holding the valve body in, then attempt to move the plunger photographed above to all of the positions it normally has.
OK, thanks for the info guys. Im going to go out and try this tomorrow-- Just to be sure, the "plunger" you are referring to is the piece circled in this attached pic? Correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Yes. Remove the "E" clip.

Upon looking at the bimetal spring it appears to be in good shape.
So I finally dropped the valve body and unhooked the park rod by removing the "E" clip. And behold, I was able to manually shift the transmission to all 6 gears (5 clicks). So where do I go from here? I have attached pics of what the park rod, and the valve body. I'm kinda all in now because I have to figure out how to put this thing back together! In one of the pics there is 2 solid metal "wedge" pieces that fell out when I lowered the valve body, and I have no idea where they go!

I really appreciate all your help guys and would be extremely thankful if you guys can continue to help me through this!

I'll also include of pic of the car just so you guys can see her.
 

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Well that is quite a combination you have. An older valve body in a newer case.

The pieces that fell out are band struts and probably why you could not shift more than a few gears.
 

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I know Stuart , was only pic I had and it is the clicker style . The manual valve is identical where the shift lever connects , only difference is the detent bits on top of the manual valve .

Now you found the issue , the band struts I bet had dropped down and jammed the linkage

That is a late valvebody used from 72-76 from my info , most likely right for your model car . It has the detent in tha case and the floating manual valve , with the bolt on pressure reg cover

Here is a pic how the ban struts go in . You will likely have to back out the adjuster first . Also have a good look for a reason they dropped out . When valvebody goes back can be a little tricky but you must line up both the manual valve to the linkage + the kickdown has to slot in right so you can feel the outside lever push the plunger in and spring back.

 

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Discussion Starter #40
I know Stuart , was only pic I had and it is the clicker style . The manual valve is identical where the shift lever connects , only difference is the detent bits on top of the manual valve .

Now you found the issue , the band struts I bet had dropped down and jammed the linkage

That is a late valvebody used from 72-76 from my info , most likely right for your model car . It has the detent in tha case and the floating manual valve , with the bolt on pressure reg cover

Here is a pic how the ban struts go in . You will likely have to back out the adjuster first . Also have a good look for a reason they dropped out . When valvebody goes back can be a little tricky but you must line up both the manual valve to the linkage + the kickdown has to slot in right so you can feel the outside lever push the plunger in and spring back.


Ok, but what about the park rod. It looks to be in good shape and I don't think any piece got broken off into the parking pawl like some people I have read about. But I could only get the transmission to manually shift into all 6 gears when the park rod was removed...would that have something to do with the band struts not being in place? Should it correct itself when I get those back on?
 
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