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1969 Galaxie XL - 390 FE
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Discussion Starter #1
I have removed my C6 from the 69' Galaxie and now cannot remember how the lines should be routed.

Based on the picture below:
Does it matter how the red and green lines are attached to the radiator?
I think the orange line is a vacuum that should be connected to the manifold? The inset picture shows the other end of the orange line.
166805


On a side note, I am replacing this tranny with a TCI C6. Will this unit be a direct replacement and connect to my 390 FE?

Appreciate the feedback.
 

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Yes, orange line to intake manifold vacuum.
The cooler lines don't really matter which way they go at the rad, but I like to try to get then back the same.
Don't worry about it tho, if you can't remember which way they were.

Why the TCI trans?
Yes the one in the link will fit a 390.
I have seen how TCI builds their trannys, (I have over 40 years experience in the trans rebuilding trade)
and I've never been impressed with any of the couple dozen TCI trannys that I have had the dis-pleasure to work on.
The owners of those trannys were not impressed either, as the majority of them failed within a couple hundred miles of install.

All the TCI trannys I have worked on, looked like they built them with parts that should have been tossed in the scrap pile.

YMMV..

I'd just get the original trans built by a shop that has a good reputation.
 

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1969 Galaxie XL - 390 FE
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks galaxiex for the sanity check. I wish I would have asked about the TCI unit before ordering it
 

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ummmm you sure about the orange line? sure looks like a fluid line fitting, and usually the modulator is in the rear
 

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Thanks galaxiex for the sanity check. I wish I would have asked about the TCI unit before ordering it
Sorry about that.
Hopefully you will have better luck than the customers TCI trannys that I worked on.

Not trying to make you feel worse.... but TCI warranty may not be the best either.
The few TCI owners that tried to get warranty were told to ship the trans back (from Canada at the owners expense)..
and TCI would evaluate.
Inevitably TCI would claim "Installation error or abuse" and deny warranty.
Then send the trans back UN repaired, again at the owners expense, OR offer to sell them yet another one of their crap trannys.

Sorry again, I really hope you have better luck.
I don't know how they stay in business....

I have not worked on a TCI trans for a couple of years now.... maybe they got better?
I really hope so.
 

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I have removed my C6 from the 69' Galaxie and now cannot remember how the lines should be routed.

Based on the picture below:
Does it matter how the red and green lines are attached to the radiator?
I think the orange line is a vacuum that should be connected to the manifold? The inset picture shows the other end of the orange line.
View attachment 166805

On a side note, I am replacing this tranny with a TCI C6. Will this unit be a direct replacement and connect to my 390 FE?

Appreciate the feedback.
Hello craving77494,

I'm always leery about seemingly inexpensive transmissions. There is no torque converter included and you'll not want to use yours unless you have a shop cut it open, clean it out, probably replace the thrust washer, weld it and balance it.

Remember the torque converter for an FE is unique (use a pilot diameter in the crank) and if you order a rebuilt they'll probably charge you a core charge and you'll have to pay to ship your boat anchor torque converter back to them. I had to do that for the two C6's I built for the 390's.

It's not terribly hard to do a standard rebuild on a C6 and you really just need some feeler gauges and a piston spring compressor to make life much easier aside from the normal tools and even the seal and bushing driver can be rented for free at most autopart stores.

I made a little tutorial on rebuilding and building a C6 if you're interested, feel free to have a look see Rebuilding your C6.

Cheers
 

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Sorry about that.
Hopefully you will have better luck than the customers TCI trannys that I worked on.

Not trying to make you feel worse.... but TCI warranty may not be the best either.
The few TCI owners that tried to get warranty were told to ship the trans back (from Canada at the owners expense)..
and TCI would evaluate.
Inevitably TCI would claim "Installation error or abuse" and deny warranty.
Then send the trans back UN repaired, again at the owners expense, OR offer to sell them yet another one of their crap trannys.

Sorry again, I really hope you have better luck.
I don't know how they stay in business....

I have not worked on a TCI trans for a couple of years now.... maybe they got better?
I really hope so.
Hello galaxiex,

You have a point there, I'm sure you've heard of the slang term of TCI? TCI = Total Crap Inside. There must be a reason why customers came up with that.

Just thinking aloud.

Cheers
 

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1969 Galaxie XL - 390 FE
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Discussion Starter #10
Really appreciate all the comments. I purchased a Hugh's 2500 converter on the recommendation of my engine guy. Guess I will keep the original trans in the event this TCI unit goes south.
 

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If you haven't received notice the trans has shipped cancel the order and call your credit card company and tell them. If it has shipped, call TCI and cancel the order and refuse to accept the trans. Then have your rebuilt. It fit's just use Hi Po parts in it.
Or if they refuse, and I wouldn't be surprised, take it to someone you trust and have them tear it apart and evaluate it. Take lots of pics and then contact TCI and ask them how they'd like they garbage all over the internet?
 

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Wow re the TCI stuff , not only me has found that . I've repaired 4 now 1 didn't even work from new , 3 others failed within a couple hundred miles . Very average inside I always thought it was Trash Can Internalsb ur I like the Total Crap Inside lol

One was their supposed you beaut RMVB comp trans , i must give it an award for the best 2-3 flare I've ever felt . But then it too failed and ended up with the forward ring gear welding itself to the input shell :(
 

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1969 Galaxie XL - 390 FE
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Discussion Starter #13
Given all the negative feedback about TCI on this thread, I requested a cancellation from Summit.

going to have the original rebuilt. Anything special I should have the shop do to the C6? Shift kit? The 390 will be close to 400hp.
 

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Given all the negative feedback about TCI on this thread, I requested a cancellation from Summit.

going to have the original rebuilt. Anything special I should have the shop do to the C6? Shift kit? The 390 will be close to 400hp.
Sure, a shift kit is a good idea at that HP level.
Don't get a B&M! (n) HARD shifts and the trans won't last past a year, has been my experience.

TransGo is good and my first choice. (y)
Nothing wrong with Superior either.

The pressure regulator boost valve is often worn. (CRITICAL!!!)
Sonnax made a replacement but I think it is out of production.
Might still be some around in the supply chain, but could be "special order" so you'd have to wait for it.
I think I have one left over from my C6 project cuz I went to the later style valve body. The boost valve is different in 77-up units.
I'll look later today and see if I still have it.
Edit; Nope I used on a customers 66 Thunderbird C6 a while back, I had forgot that I used it...

Early boost valve >>> Boost Valve Kit - 36941-01K

Late boost valve >>>Boost Valve Kit - 36946-04K

Awww heck, here's all of em >>> Ford C6 Transmission

The one piece case bushing is a nice upgrade for any C6. Sonnax part # 36008B
The low sprag race and bearing kit is also a nice upgrade. Sonnax part # 36429E-K
The bearing in that kit replaces the rear thrust washer.
That washer is the most heavily loaded washer in the whole trans, highly recommended to use the bearing type.

TONS of other mods can be done to the C6. It gets expensive in a hurry.
Not sure you would need all that if the car is just a cruiser. (no drag racing)

BTW Sonnax does not sell to the public but I think you can get their stuff thru Summit.
In any case your trans shop should be able to get Sonnax stuff.

.
 

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TransGo kits for the C6...

C6 | TransGo

The SK-6 kit would be fine for street cruising.

If you plan on more aggressive driving get the 67-1&2 kit.

Stage 1 = mild. but slightly firmer than stock shifts.
Stage 2 = street/strip. Noticeably firmer than stock shifts but certainly street drive-able.

Given that you have a Hughes 2500 stall converter on the way I'd go for the Stage 2 setup.
The looser converter will tend to "soften" the shift feel.

.
 

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I have some different front servos (A, B, H) and Servo apply levers (D,E,H). Any that help you are yours. Just pay shipping. Cobra used a "R" servo. PATC is a good place for parts to upgrade.
 

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The early C6 case will not allow the "R" servo to fit without machining the case servo bore.

Only genuine "R" code trannys (meaning the car came stock with the R code engine and C6) will allow the R servo to fit.

Later C6 cases, I think around 76 or 77 were all machined and could fit the R servo.

This is a pic of an early C6 case showing the servo bore.

166812


See the step about an inch down the bore?
That is what prevents the R servo from being used in this case.

So what you say, just machine the bore... if only it were that easy....

You need a special cutter to do that because of the center "tower" where the servo pin goes in.
Plus jigging it up on the milling machine.... plus the servo bore needs a specific rms finish on it because the R servo seal ride in that bore.

Here is a non R code servo... to fit the above bore...
This is a D code servo...

166813


See how the outer servo cover fits the bore?
The groove on the cover takes an O-ring and does not move once the servo is installed.
The servo PISTON in the above pic rides completely INSIDE the servo cover.

The R servo PISTON fills the whole bore and the servo outer seal ride in and strokes in the CASE bore, so you need a proper surface finish for that.

The following pic is the Sonnax Billet aluminum aftermarket replacement for the factory R servo.
Same dimensions as the factory R servo, but with some upgrades.

166814
 

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Servo and apply lever chart...

C6 SERVOS AND LEVERS





From Softest to Most Firm



CODE ON COVER, APPLY DIA, RELEASE DIA, SEAL TYPE

N 1.93 2.92 Molded piston

S 2.00 2.86 Molded piston

G 2.04 3.02 O-rings

J 2.07 2.69 O-rings

L 2.07 2.98 Molded piston

D 2.08 2.98 O-rings

P 2.10 2.86 Molded Piston

H 2.34 3.02 O-rings

R 2.48 3.50 O-rings



APPLY LEVERS



Intermediate servo apply levers are identified by a large cast letter.

The ratio say an 'E' multiplies band apply force by 1.85 times.

The higher the ratio the greater the band force but the slower the actuation speed.



A = 1.65:1

B = 1.73:1

E = 1.85:1

D = 1.97:1

H = 2.18:1

F = 2.30:1 (Iffy to use with R servo, may crack the case)

FF = 2.82:1 (aftermarket Sonnax lever, do NOT use with R servo)


The D code servo (quite common) is still pretty decent with any of the A thru H apply levers.
Especially with a shift kit.

The P or H servo is the best of the factory non R servos.
You need the corresponding cover with any of them.

Getting into race car territory when you start going for R servo and F lever, simply NOT needed for the street.
Really hard shifts!
 

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All very good info.. I will add if you were to use that Sonnax R servo , every one I have ever used has been too tight in the case and requires machining of the larger ring groove
I about to build a coupe C6 and going to try the Superior servo

For a cruiser a D servo is a good choice
 
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