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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody tried the Cal-Tracs traction bars.I currently am using slapper bars and adjustable drag shocks front and rear.Drag shocks didn't seem to help much other than the car seems much more stable. Car leaves fairly hard at 3500 any higher and it spins badly.I am using Mcreary G-60-15 roadstars and have a best 60ft of 1.97 but usually is in the 2.0s
 

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Sorry about the double post!


I would spend money on better tires first.
Caltracs are good, but there's a lot more to them than just bolting them on. I have 2 buddys that use them and they had to get special springs and GOOD adjustable shocks just to make them work. Without the other parts they saw no improvement. Total cost when it's all said and done is around $700-$800.
Now, on the upside, once they are lined out, they work really good.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I agree with you about the tires, have a set of ET-drags to try this summer.My shocks are the competition engineering 3-way adjustable type and seemed hard to setup(felt different from one another on the same settings?). The car was actually about.004-.010 slower than my previous best with the stock worn out shocks,but I didn't have time to play with them at the track.
 

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I would try better tires first. I've also heard of people not getting much better results with the cal-tracks too. Try the tires and play with your shocks more.
 

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are you running slicks on it now. what tire pressure.A freind of mine uses cal-trac bars he runs a four speed and leaves at 7000 rpm in a 65 falcon with a 289. ET of 12.30 in colorado he would be in the 11.60 at sea level. most of all nhra stock class run cal-trac. OH he uses stock leaf spring
 

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don't discount those cal-tracs...giv'em some some more tire to work with(e/t streets).60/40,even 70/30 on back might help.you can pull a leaf on your stock leafs.have a friend adjust the cal-tracs so that you have @ 1/4 inch of daylight between the front spring eye and the c trac front spring stop bar(not the correct term for it)with you sitting in the driver seat.tighten them up a little at a time until you get the best 60ft.
 

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The Cal Tracs are $$, but there is a reason. The rod ends alone would cost you $120+. They are high quality chrome moly rod ends. The bars themselves are also chrome moly and then powder coated.

Not that bad to install. Only hard part is getting the spring eye bolts out and then getting the rubber bushing/steel sleeve out of the spring eye. I spent the better part of a Saturday installing them.

Now my opinion: Where they shine is on a 11 sec. car. A 12-13-14 sec car can do just as well with slapper bars.

Most 10 sec cars won't see much of an improvement (it's already working good enough to get 10 sec times) My car was low 7's (11.0's) when I put them on. Didn't see anything really as far as et improvement, but it became much more consistent from run to run.

They are some SS cars running 9's and 10's on them, but those cars are totally optimized everywhere else in the suspension and they are running on national event prepped tracks.

So, if you can run deep into the 11's they are worth it, faster cars are better off with a ladder bar or 4-link setup. Slower cars should save their money, buy some $100 slappers and spend the money elsewhere.

I had them on my car for almost 3 seasons and then decided to back-half it. Went to ladder bars, coil overs, tubs, the whole package.


Later,

David Cole
 

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I don't think you need better bars. I think you need better tires. I also think you've done quite well due to the adjustable shocks, etc to get a 'street' tire to 60 foot in the 1.9's!
You'll be amazed by putting M/T ET Street slicks on. The difference in traction will allow (force) you to readjust your shock settings because you won't need to try to plant them so hard. Then you can up your launch rpm and run low 13's. Are you running Mission?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bartholomew thanks for the reply,I agree the ET streets should be better but give the Mcreary's some credit as they're the main reason why I run as fast as I do.Iwas trying to get away from the rear of the car lifting(because of the slapper bars) and get it to squat to help with weight transfer.I have no clue what you mean when you say are you running mission? Is this a track or something?I'm from Ontario and run Cayuga or St Thomas's quarter miles, if thats what you meant?
 

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Having the rear of the car lift IS desirable with a slapper bar setup. The slapper bars lever UP on the body, planting the tires in the pavement. Just think of a little guy standing on the axle housing and pushing up on the floor of the car... all that force to lift the body is pushing the rear axle (tires) into the ground.

My mustang looks like a big red frog taking off... all four corners jump up on launch.


With really high horsepower/high traction cars, the rear seperation 'can' exceed the travel of the shocks. If this happens, the shocks jerk up on the housing as they reach full extension and unload the rear tires on launch. These applications need shock extensions, stiffer shocks, or stiffer springs.

Tires are the #1 best thing you can do for a car's traction. With minimal suspension mods, a small set of slicks should run most cars into the high 11's low 12's.

Good Luck!
 

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Yes when I asked about Mission, that is the name of a city and race track near Vancouver BC. As I am in Calgary, I think of the west first.(Sorry, no slight intended) When I ran a Cadillac powered '69 Firebird with leaf springs I didn't use slapper bars, but I added a stiff short leaf to the front half only and clamped it so that the spring would lift and not wrap. I also had stock shocks and old 10 x 28 " slicks. That's all. With the Cadillac torque, I managed 1.88 60 foots. Since the amount of lift is actually quite great with a slapper bar on leaf springs, the front of the car may not have a chance to rise before the rear is done rising and you may have a mysterious 'bites for a while and then spins' problem. This is actually fixed by using a very free moving front susp. along with low rate front springs and 90/10's up front in order to get the front end to react sooner, thus putting more weight onto the rear for the spring/bar setup to push against. However, once the weight comes back forward again after you're under way, if there isn't enough tire to hold the horsepower, it doesn't matter what susp you've got, it will spin. I'm not knocking the Mcreary's, but there is always a limit to what a given tire can do. You've got to have enough initial bite to CREATE the weight transfer you're looking for. Something to push against in order to lift the front of the car. One other consideration is that if you are getting quite a bit of rear end seperation, perhaps the shocks are topping out and pulling the tire 'up' off the track surface a little and unloading them, since they're drag shocks made for your car though, this shouldn't be a problem unless the rear of your car is higher than usual. I hope this helps.
 

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I guess most of you run autos I don't know how hard you leave with autos with our stick car we leave at 7000 rpm we need a slick with a big foot print 12.5 slick the stick hammers the tires 9 an 10" tires or slick we just burn them up
 
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