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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 64 Galaxie Convert. with a 390 in it, when I got it the guy told me that it runs good and it just needs a little tuning up. It still had the 4100 stock 4 barrel carb that leaked very bad at the accelerator pump and ran very rich and was missing on cylinder 3. I'm thinking that it has a fouled plug or something, the plugs were all black with #3 covered in fuel, Oil smelled like fuel so I replaced the carb with a Holly 1805 600cfm, changed the plugs and oil. I fired it up and still had the miss on #3. I made sure the firing order was good and checked the timing which was good. I pulled the plug on 3 and again was covered with fuel telling me that its not firing. I pulled the valve cover on that side and had the wife trun the car over to make sure all the valves are opening and closing which they are, I saw nothing wrong with 3 but did find a broken exhaust spring on 2.

I know now that I will have to pull the heads to fix that broken valve spring but before I do i would like to find out why 3 is not firing any ideas?

Thanks in advanced.

Mango
 

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Verify that that the wire for #3 actually is getting spark thru it. Might have a bad wire or a bad contact in the cap. It's a starting point. I'm trying to be optimistic for now :) lol
 

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Check each wire by connecting a timing light to each of them one at a time.
Then decide from there.

You don't have to necessarily remove the head to replace a spring, unless the valve has dropped and caused damage.
 

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I know now that I will have to pull the heads to fix that broken valve spring... Mango
Hey Mr. M64,
As Danv said: "You don't have to necessarily remove the head to replace a spring."

The reason to remove the Cylinder Head would be that when you compressed the Spring, and removed the Keeper, the Valve MIGHT drop into the Cylinder.

There is a "surefire" way to keep a Valve from dropping into the Cylinder when the Spring is removed, you can... and it MIGHT sound a little odd, use what is affectionately known as: "The Magic Rope Trick".

It was not too long ago that Ms. American 3.14159's (the ONLY 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, Four-Door, Hard-Top, Fast-Back, Police Interceptor that Google finds on the whole World Wide Web) Chase Truck, Lorrie Van Haul (the ONLY surviving 1967 Dodge P200 Postal Van), needed to have the Springs removed from her Valves to give access to the Valve Stem Seals.

"The Magic Rope Trick" was used, and it works marvelously.

Here is what you do to perform "The Magic Rope Trick:

Get a goodly length of Rope (nylon, hemp, etc.) just slightly smaller in diameter than the Spark Plug Hole.

Take the Spark Plug out of the Cylinder in which the Valve that needs the Spring replaced, and with the Piston on the upstroke, feed the Rope into the Cylinder, making sure that there is a goodly length (24" to 36") of the Rope still on the outside of the Spark Plug Hole.

Then carefully turn the Engine by hand until the Piston has compressed the Rope up against the Valves, and the Engine will no longer turn.

This will result in the Rope holding the Valves in place so that when a Spring is removed, the Valve will NOT fall into the Cylinder.

Then using a Spring Compressor (available from AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc., for around $20.00), compress the Spring, remove the Keeper, and remove the Spring.

Put the NEW Spring into the Spring Compressor, and put it on the Valve Stem.

Install the Keeper, and remove the Spring Compressor.

Turn the Engine Backward to move the Piston away from the Rope, and pull the Rope out of the Cylinder.

Replace the Spark Plug and Wire, and you're finished.

Had personally had never done this until a while back. Did it on three different Valves.

It works like a charm.

HTH

JC
 

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You should also run a compression test on #3 prior to removing the head or replacing the broken valve spring.
If the compression test indicated a possible burnt valve the hear will have to be removed anyway so all the work could be done at the same time.

Scott...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
"Take the Spark Plug out of the Cylinder in which the Valve that needs the Spring replaced, and with the Piston on the upstroke" Does this mean when the piston is all the way down and ready to come up?

"You should also run a compression test on #3 prior to removing the head or replacing the broken valve spring.
If the compression test indicated a possible burnt valve"

Lets say I do the compression test on this cylinder... How will i know if i have a burnt valve or bad compression rings??

Thanks for the great advice all... I love that rope trick :)


Mango
 

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Does this mean when the piston is all the way down and ready to come up?
Hey Mr. M64,
It really doesn't matter just as long as you get the Piston up against the Rope. Having the Piston on an upstroke just means that you won't have to turn the Engine as much to get it up against the Rope.

I love that rope trick :) Mango
It's one of the little lesser known oddities. :)

JC
 

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If you're thinking is is a stuck valve you can try this.

Ok the cheapest compression leak detector of all time is a cork, a hose and a cigar. You can trim a wine cork but I recommend a 5/8" - 3/4" one from the hardware store. Stuf it in the spark plug hole and bump the engine (coil undone.) If the cork won't pop out at TDC you got a seriously stuck valve. If it does pop, drill a large hole through it and insert a hose. Then stick the cork back into the suspected cylinder. Light up a Black & Mild (wooden tip) cigar and blow smoke into the hose. In (my) theory if there is an intake valve leak the smoke will blow past the valve and out the carburetor. If it's an exhaust valve leak the smoke will blow out the exhaust port. If it blows out neither, or comes out the valve cover breather, figure it's the rings.
 

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If you're thinking is is a stuck valve you can try this.

Ok the cheapest compression leak detector of all time is a cork, a hose and a cigar. You can trim a wine cork but I recommend a 5/8" - 3/4" one from the hardware store. Stuf it in the spark plug hole and bump the engine (coil undone.) If the cork won't pop out at TDC you got a seriously stuck valve. If it does pop, drill a large hole through it and insert a hose. Then stick the cork back into the suspected cylinder. Light up a Black & Mild (wooden tip) cigar and blow smoke into the hose. In (my) theory if there is an intake valve leak the smoke will blow past the valve and out the carburetor. If it's an exhaust valve leak the smoke will blow out the exhaust port. If it blows out neither, or comes out the valve cover breather, figure it's the rings.
Now this I need to get framed...
 

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1st S.W.A.G. is spark plug wire. try swapping it for maybe no. 7 wire and see if the miss "moves".... M2C...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you're thinking is is a stuck valve you can try this.

Ok the cheapest compression leak detector of all time is a cork, a hose and a cigar. You can trim a wine cork but I recommend a 5/8" - 3/4" one from the hardware store. Stuf it in the spark plug hole and bump the engine (coil undone.) If the cork won't pop out at TDC you got a seriously stuck valve. If it does pop, drill a large hole through it and insert a hose. Then stick the cork back into the suspected cylinder. Light up a Black & Mild (wooden tip) cigar and blow smoke into the hose. In (my) theory if there is an intake valve leak the smoke will blow past the valve and out the carburetor. If it's an exhaust valve leak the smoke will blow out the exhaust port. If it blows out neither, or comes out the valve cover breather, figure it's the rings.
That is classic!!!

I have not got to this yet but will be getting close today, I did manage to test out spark coming from each spark plug in the distributer cap. I only used one plug wire and one spark plug for this test, i would just move the plug wire to the next plug and ground the plug and got spark out of all 8 locations, I also put my finger on the #3 spark plug hole and had the wife crank it over and it blew my finger right off the hole so now i'm thinking that my problems may be coming from the #2 exhaust spring being broke and maybe a bad plug wire and my timing might be off a tooth... I'm still going to do the compression test and will hit the spring with rope trick this week... I'll keep ya'll posted and let you know what i find..

Thanks for all the great suggestions.

Mango
 

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I'm still going to do the compression test.
Compression test on a budget. Buy eight corks, number and install them all. Give the engine a crank and measure cork flight distance to determine which cylinder is the weak one. Submit results to Tech Archives...
 

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Compression test on a budget. Buy eight corks, number and install them all. Give the engine a crank and measure cork flight distance to determine which cylinder is the weak one.

Submit results to Tech Archives...


Do you also think that maybe they should be put on a tether? That way one can gauge the amount of stretch on each tether to properly gauge different readings?

All of those corks go off and the neighbors might think you are hosting a gay pleasure cruise...
 

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Do you also think that maybe they should be put on a tether? That way one can gauge the amount of stretch on each tether to properly gauge different readings?

All of those corks go off and the neighbors might think you are hosting a gay pleasure cruise...
Good points, K, damn good points. Pretty good set of smilies, too!
Tom
 

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Pretty good set of smilies, too!

Tom
You watch. I GOOGLED that smilie and I bet I get spammed to death with gay sites... :frown:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update!!!!!

When i got home last night i was able to do a individual test on each plug wire and each spark plug.. happy to say I got got really good spark from each plug. I also made sure that my timing was on by getting the crank on TDC @ 0 and made sure my #1 piston was up and that my rotor was pointing to #1 on my cap, while i did that i checked my point gap and it was way off so much so that it looked like they werent even opening so i fixed that by making sure i have a gap of 17. So now the big test will come tonight when i remove that broken spring. I will be doing the compression test before and after the spring swap with a normal compression tester.

Mango
 

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Re: Update!!!!!

I will be doing the compression test before and after the spring swap with a normal compression tester.

Mango
So, you don't smoke? Hate to see you make an ash of yourself...


Sounds like you are on your way... :tup:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OK... I have 155 to 160 PSI on all cylinders except for #2 with the broken Exhaust Spring to which I have 0 compression...

Where the Hell do I find an Exhaust spring for this thing?


TIA

Mango
 

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Any large parts jobber or machine shop in your area.
 

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NAPA AUTO PARTS

Napa can get you one in. Part number in the link above should do it, especially if you are just trying to get it running. It's probably going to be a little healthier than the rest, but you'll never know the difference.

The other option is to go to a yard and pull one off a junk 360/390 in the pile. But for 5 bucks, hard to waste a trip

I just tossed 16 in the trash a few weeks ago, maybe someone else has some old ones on the forum
 
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