Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to know how to post pics, I just got my mustang aligned after putting on a negitive wedge kit and it drives like sh!t. They tell me everything is within spec but I think they are full of bs. i took some pics but dont know how to post.

-ok I think I learned how to post so here are some pics. Tell me if you think there is an exessive amount of camber.







if not just look in my pics.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ujt389 on 5/17/06 9:57am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ujt389 on 5/19/06 7:47am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,662 Posts
Go into your account and in your profile click on the "edit" button.After you click on it you will see the word pictures up above the page.Click on it and then you can upload your pictures.Write in the info here and the picture will appear
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
I'd say the right side looks like it has a lot of negative camber and is toed WAY out. I think you need to take it back to the alignment shop that did it. Did they use a computer alignment system or the manual gauges?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Steering is very umprdictable and jumpy and has become way lighter. I asked the guy several times if the camber was off and he said it was within spec which should be at about 0 degrees. I dont know if it was manual or electric. He said that my tie rods were not long enough. The only mods are a negitive wedge kit and a flaming river manual rack and pinion steering setup. Also the steering wheel did not return after making a turn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
what spindles? yes you have neg camber, so less tire is touching on the straightaways and your tire will wear out on the inside quicker, again what spindle, and did you change tie rods? dont worry you can fix it and make it way better
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I'd be very interested to hear your findings. I have the exact same mods, 1 3/4 upper arm drop, neg wedge kit, and manual flaming river rack and I have alot of the same symptoms. I'm runing 2 degrees of caster, about 1/2 degree of neg camber, and a little toe in. I was thinking bumpsteer for awhile, but now I don't know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,489 Posts
May need new tires. Those tires have a wear pattern from the old alignment and now you probably have more negative camber and the tires are not making full tread contact to the road. I had this issue with a jeep years ago. Once the tires got worn in things got better.

On the other hand, the alignment may not be right. I've had a shop align my car the first time and it drove really wierd. I bought a caster/camber gauge and learned how to do alignment in my level garage floor and made it feel much more stable. It's worth learning how to do alignment and the inexpensive bar type caster/camber gauges work well as long as your wheel isn't bent.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
the spindles are stock, the tie rod ends are the ones that came with the flaming river kit. I know I can make it better, but the a$$hole at the alignment shop told me that the only thing off was the toe setting. I asked him about the camber several times and he kept saying it was within spec.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,211 Posts
I second comments from BKKFRD, most shops will not take the time to set up these early cars correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
probably a bad alingment and he told you that cause he didnt want to recheck it, get a roller idler or rack and pinion. idlers have alot of play not noticed with hands yanking. also alot of alignment shops lift up the car from the lca, well that is not where the car sits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
also if you ran out of tie rod adjustment, make sure the centerlink is centered to the frame, check both tie rods for simularities in length and frame center.. did he give you a printout or some specs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
It sounds like the alignment shop set the car to factory specs. If so, that is your problem. The factory specs are no good for performance driven cars with radial tires. You need to go back and give them the specs you want. They may not like that and you'll have to find another shop. The caster and camber have to be the same on both sides or the car will pull to one side or the other. Have the car set to:

0 to .5 neg. - camber

1.5 to 2.5 pos. caster

1/8" toe in.

Again, the caster and camber settings have to be the same on both sides.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
636 Posts
It's way off. You need someone who knows what the
hell they're doing. Opentracker is right too. You can't
align her to the factory specs- they'll need to use some
updated ones. I don't know that you'll get it fixed at that
shop either. It may be beyond their capabilities. If there's
a good classic mustang shop in your area, they'll have a
clue about who can do a good alignment.
The rack has to be physically mounted in the car where
it's supposed to be and then it has to be internally centered
and then you'll be able to find out a lot about what's going
on- a good alignment tech knows what needs to be done.
The trick is finding one who will do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
That doesn't even look close in terms of camber or toe! The negative camber on the passenger side is obviously too much and the toe OUT is horrible.

It looks like the car will pull HARD to one side (left is my guess because of camber) and dart back and forth with any little bump in the road (toe out).

Use a tape measure to measure from a tire tread to tire tread at the back of the tire and then do the same at the front of the tire. Edit (Your tread is not as easy to check as mine so I would use a needle into the tread on the front of each tire to get your measurement. Then roll the car backward to measure from needle to needle at the back of the tire). This easy check will show you quickly that the toe is out. It easily looks like an inch or more. Should be 1/8 - 1/16 toe in.

You can use a plumb bob or carpenters square to check the camber. Distance from bottom of wheel to square minus distance from top of wheel to square. Should be very close to zero. You can even trig the angle if you want. You will see a big difference form side to side. Not good. Both sides should be close to one another for the car to track well.


_________________
1966 Mustang, vinyl top, K&N filter, autolite plugs, blue plug wires, lowering springs, KYB's, 3.55 gears, 215/60 14 tires. 12.44 @ 108+

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Vinyl66 on 5/18/06 8:42pm ]</font>
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top